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  1. #11
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    Re: Please Rescue a Newbie... correcting home sprayed Clear Coat

    Just received my order from Autogeek... I think I scared the UPS guy!
    Ready for the weekend; I'll be reviewing as much info as I can find on the wet sanding process, specifically when to stop with one grit and go to the next.

    Of the 6 areas I painted, 4 look pretty good for a rookie, 1 is tolerable, and 1 may need to be repainted and finished at a later date.
    I'll post pictures when I'm done.
    Thanks again for all the guidance!

  2. #12
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    Re: Please Rescue a Newbie... correcting home sprayed Clear Coat

    Okay folks, here's the latest:
    Last night I wet sanded, compounded, polished and waxed the roof of my car.
    First, a HUGE THANK YOU to those that gave advice or wished me luck.
    Big thank you to Mike, not only for advice on sanding technique; but for reminding me to manage my expectations.

    As this was a repair of sun damaged clear, in the most basic sense I succeeded. The white nightmare of sun damage is gone until I can afford a repaint.
    As the old saying goes, you can't make chicken salad out of chicken poop.
    My initial sanding was poorly done, the paint was poorly applied (all by me). The wet sanding helped and the MT300 was a blast to use; but aesthetically the roof ain't pretty.
    At some point I may attempt to re-do the worst areas; but I have to paint my kids' room first.

    Finished pretty late last night, so no pictures yet.

    When I do get a chance (I only did the roof), I will use the Meguiar's MT300 on the rest of the car and post before and after pics under a different thread. For a first time user of ANY polishing equipment, it was very user friendly; and did a great job on the original paint on the roof.

    There's my morning babble. Thanks again!

  3. #13
    Super Member DaveT435's Avatar
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    Re: Please Rescue a Newbie... correcting home sprayed Clear Coat

    Quote Originally Posted by PGBCruiser View Post
    Okay folks, here's the latest:
    Last night I wet sanded, compounded, polished and waxed the roof of my car.
    First, a HUGE THANK YOU to those that gave advice or wished me luck.
    Big thank you to Mike, not only for advice on sanding technique; but for reminding me to manage my expectations.

    As this was a repair of sun damaged clear, in the most basic sense I succeeded. The white nightmare of sun damage is gone until I can afford a repaint.
    As the old saying goes, you can't make chicken salad out of chicken poop.
    My initial sanding was poorly done, the paint was poorly applied (all by me). The wet sanding helped and the MT300 was a blast to use; but aesthetically the roof ain't pretty.
    At some point I may attempt to re-do the worst areas; but I have to paint my kids' room first.

    Finished pretty late last night, so no pictures yet.

    When I do get a chance (I only did the roof), I will use the Meguiar's MT300 on the rest of the car and post before and after pics under a different thread. For a first time user of ANY polishing equipment, it was very user friendly; and did a great job on the original paint on the roof.

    There's my morning babble. Thanks again!
    A couple questions, you said you sanded the car first and did some base coat painting? Was that because you sanded through to the primer the base coat had faded?
    Did you sand all the clear off the areas you repainted or just enough to blend the line between clear and non clear coated areas and get enough scratch on the remaining clear for the new clear to stick to?
    I have paint experience and have read a little bit about the clear coat you used. I have a neighbor with severe damage he wants me to help him repair. My paint experience is with single stage. Thanks in advance for any input.

  4. #14
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    Re: Please Rescue a Newbie... correcting home sprayed Clear Coat

    Dave,
    I'll preface by stressing that I had never done this before, so I made a bunch of rookie mistakes.
    I had white "spider webs" in a few areas and two Quarter sized spots where the clear was gone (base coat color showing up on my wax applicator).

    I sanded the clear coat in those areas with "white damage" to get as close as I could to base (Chrysler Patriot Blue). In all sanded areas I applied base color from automotivetouchup.com. Not a perfect match; but close enough for the roof.
    I found that the areas where I was most subtle came out the best. I never hit primer while sanding.

    Because I wanted to force myself to keep a small job small, I taped off my sanding areas to avoid going beyond. That would account for the very distinct lines between repair and original paint.

    I put on about 4 coats of 2K clear from Eastwood (went heavy as I knew I would be sanding later).

    As I type this I'm realizing the mistakes I made...

    I don't have enough experience to rate the 2K versus a standard rattle can of clear - although I painted my factory steel wheels when they began to rust using all Rustoleum "Stops Rust" products including clear, and I was thrilled with the results.

    My two cents: if you are experienced, go with what you are comfortable with. My biggest obstacle was inexperience in each step.

    Hope that helps a little!

  5. #15
    Super Member DaveT435's Avatar
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    Re: Please Rescue a Newbie... correcting home sprayed Clear Coat

    Quote Originally Posted by PGBCruiser View Post
    Dave,
    I'll preface by stressing that I had never done this before, so I made a bunch of rookie mistakes.
    I had white "spider webs" in a few areas and two Quarter sized spots where the clear was gone (base coat color showing up on my wax applicator).

    I sanded the clear coat in those areas with "white damage" to get as close as I could to base (Chrysler Patriot Blue). In all sanded areas I applied base color from automotivetouchup.com. Not a perfect match; but close enough for the roof.
    I found that the areas where I was most subtle came out the best. I never hit primer while sanding.

    Because I wanted to force myself to keep a small job small, I taped off my sanding areas to avoid going beyond. That would account for the very distinct lines between repair and original paint.

    I put on about 4 coats of 2K clear from Eastwood (went heavy as I knew I would be sanding later).

    As I type this I'm realizing the mistakes I made...

    I don't have enough experience to rate the 2K versus a standard rattle can of clear - although I painted my factory steel wheels when they began to rust using all Rustoleum "Stops Rust" products including clear, and I was thrilled with the results.

    My two cents: if you are experienced, go with what you are comfortable with. My biggest obstacle was inexperience in each step.

    Hope that helps a little!
    Thanks,
    I'm experienced with paint...not really re clear coating. Any and all information is helpful. This car is in much worse shape than yours from what you have described. Not real sure if I want to get involved in this or not. Thanks for sharing your experience.

  6. #16
    Super Member Calendyr's Avatar
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    Re: Please Rescue a Newbie... correcting home sprayed Clear Coat

    The important thing is that you need to sand anything that will be painted first. If you don't the paint you apply will eventually peel off.

    There are 2 ways to make sure it sticks:
    1- Use 400 grit sand paper
    2- Use either gray or red scotch pad

    Personally I like the scotch pad for areas that are not damaged. Sand paper for repairs.

    Learning to blend color repair is an aquired skill. It's very counter intuitive to leave the areas around the repairs unmasked. You should mask where the body lines are. You can use the areas between the repair and the masked lines to blend the color so that you don't get a line.

    You should clearcoat the whole pannel, not just the repair.

    Now that you are done with the roof, you have learned a few things, if you have other areas on the car to repair, it should come out better.

  7. #17
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    Re: Please Rescue a Newbie... correcting home sprayed Clear Coat

    Thanks Calendyr!
    For the moment I'm feeling a bit beat up (physically and mentally). Part of me needs a break, the other part has already started planning to re-do the job. I'm reminding myself that it is metal and paint - anything I messed up can be done again, this time with just a bit of experience.

    I like the idea of the Scotch pads (I already have some) and clearing the entire roof - added protection so the area next to the repair doesn't get sun damaged next - and a better looking result.
    When the time comes I'll have to study up on blending... I have a tremendous amount of respect for people who can do this kind of work!!!!

    We're creeping up on that special time in Florida when it's ALWAYS above 90 degrees and humid. Not ideal for painting; but maybe I'll get a good weekend.
    Thanks for the advice and encouragement, greatly appreciated!

    Peter

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