Correcting bird poo stain
Wet-Sanding, Cutting & BuffingDiscuss Correcting bird poo stain in the Detailer's Library forums; I had my car professionally repainted three weeks ago. I picked the car up this past Thursday and it looks ...
I had my car professionally repainted three weeks ago. I picked the car up this past Thursday and it looks awesome. I need to buff out some holograms and some RIDS but it came out beautifully. Anyway yesterday I received a gift from above. A bird bomb on my trunk lid. I cleaned the crap off as soon as I was able. It was difficult to do as it was baked in by the sun. Once cleaned up there was the mandatory stain. I grabbed my WGTSR and my WGFG along with a microfiber polishing pad. I rubbed and rubbed and rubbed some more to no avail. I needed something more potent. Today I do a search on the subject and got nowhere fast. So I made up my mind and headed to Auto Zone after work to pick up some compound. While ate the store I spotted 32oz bottles of Meguiars M105 and M205. I decided I would give this a shot as I had heard good things about these for general detailing. So I put some M105 on a pad and started rubbing. In less than one minute the stain is no longer there. Gone gone gone. I also had a wet sanding mark on my right quarter panel. Looked like the finish detailer at the body shop didn't hit that area too well. A little M105 on the pad and nice and shiny in a half a minute. My wife's BMW had a bird poo stain on the hood for about three months now. A little M105 and it is now gone. This stuff is amazing.
So anyone who may be doing a Google search on the subject of removing poo stains from your paint please read this and make your life easy. Meguiars M105 removes bird poo stains very easily. These stains were the first I have ever been able to get off the paint of any of my vehicles.
I got to the 105 in much the same way. It did a great job. I used it to clean up the paint on my wife's ten year old Honda. It erased almost all of the rids and removed much of the etching from the bird poop. I stopped before it was all gone because I felt like I had worked the paint enough. I used a da with an orange pad. Maybe I should have kept going. Opinions?
I decided to use the less is more approach and got to work. I started with a white pad and some M205. That wasn't getting the job done. So I switched to an orange pad with the M205. Better but still not too good. So I pulled out the WG Total Swirl Remover. That did the trick.
I was getting correction with only two section passes but decided to do four to be on the safe side. All of the holograms and the left over wet sand haze are history.
I noticed some scratches that are under the clear. It sucks but my only option would be to return to the painter and have them repaint the areas. I think I am just going to live with the scratches.
I tried taking before pictures to show the holograms but couldn't get them to show. I cannot figure out how to do that.
Anyway the TSR cleaned up the paint so well and I actually figured out that the PC was set at 3.5. I knew it was sounding weak but didn't even give it a thought. But I went from the TSR to the WGDGPS. I was able to skip past the finishing glaze.
I did use some M105 on the trunk lid. There was a large area where there is under the paint scratching and some haze. I improved it but didn't get it perfect. I will see how it ages. The paint does have a lifetime warranty so I will see how it looks after a few washes.