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  1. #1
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    Working With M105

    I'm sorry if this was covered already. I recently detailed a car and corrected the paint using M105 and M205. M205 is a pleasure to work with, but the M105 was giving me a hell of a time. I don't know if I was doing something wrong, but I feel like I remember reading somewhere of someone else having this problem as well. The working time of M105 seems to be REALLY low. It would drive out so unbelievably quick. Before it dried though, it would cut incredibly well. I had a spray bottle with some water in it and would spray that when it would begin to dry to extend the working time a little bit, but it only slightly helped. Any suggestions of what I should do in the future to make working with M105 a little easier?

    I prime the pad with the product, as per Kevin Browns suggestion. It works well for the first section or 2, but after that and the bulk of the product comes out, it just dries out very, VERY quickly.

  2. #2
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    Re: Working With M105

    What pads are you using.

  3. #3
    Super Member richy's Avatar
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    Re: Working With M105

    When I use it with my Tuf Buff pads, I get an incredibly long work time out of it. Less product is better for 105, not more. I did a video on using it if that interests you. PM me and I'll post it here.

  4. #4
    Super Member VISITOR's Avatar
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    Re: Working With M105

    ^

  5. #5
    Super Member richy's Avatar
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    Re: Working With M105

    Thanks Visitor, but this is the one I was thinking about:

    https://youtu.be/wIEpxBe6oXQ

  6. #6
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    Re: Working With M105

    oops, at least there is two video's to watch now..

  7. #7
    Super Member AutowerxDetailing's Avatar
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    Re: Working With M105

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackdevil77 View Post
    The working time of M105 seems to be REALLY low.
    M105 is not designed to have a long working time. It is supposed to cut fast and doesn't require a long buffing cycle since the abrasive technology in M105 does not break down like traditional compounds. If you work the product too long the carrier solvents will dry out and you will cake up the pad with abraded paint residue and spent product. It is also important to work in small sections so the product does not dry out on the panel while you are working the pad/machine over another area.
    Nicholas Scafidi - CQuartz Finest Authorized Installer
    www.autowerxdetailing.com Auto Detailing in Sherwood, OR
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  8. #8
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    Re: Working With M105

    If I have to use Meg's I switched over and started doing m100 and m205. I don't even use my m105 bottle snymore. M100 is so much better, user friendly and cuts amazingly well.

  9. #9
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    Re: Working With M105

    Quote Originally Posted by richy View Post
    Thanks Visitor, but this is the one I was thinking about:

    https://youtu.be/wIEpxBe6oXQ
    Richy you're the man with detailing, but when taking videos hold the phone the long way lol

  10. #10
    Super Member dlc95's Avatar
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    Re: Working With M105

    The foam pads I typically use with cutting compounds are open cell, and fairly large pores. These pads do not play well with full face priming. I start with a spritz of M34 Final Inspection depending on the climate, and four drops of M105 around the outside edge of the pad.

    That's usually enough to get started. Three drops to reload, and the pad and product find it's "sweet spot" with moisture content.

    It cuts very fast, but since it's so loaded with abrasive particles - is prone to dusting.

    I also switched to M100. It behaves a lot more like Ultimate Compound in that it's very easy to use. I would say that it cuts just a bit harder. But they will dust some as well. I'll take that over a gummy, wet, clogged, caked pad any day.

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