Buffing threw clear....>???

[Rival]

I have a neighbor who i said i would take a good scratch out of his door. Ive gone at this 5/6 times, using a org. porter cable (12yrs old, or close) and an orange pad + TSR 3.0, than once with a white and TSR 3.0. I dont want to go threw the clear, but this car has never been buffed, the scratch is on the dead middle of the door and i assume or think i would need to make another 2-3 sessions/passes on it to get it out. I do need to press a decent amount because this machine is older, i do have a real buffer (9207) but have yet to take that out.

I was i had a gauge to tell exactly what i was working with, but i do not. I did not wetsand this lil ####### like i should of with some 3500 grit paper.....But i just washed, clayed and went.

Advice....??

I have worked in a body shop for a few years, been serious detailing for about 10/12yrs. But this is a dark red metallic car and i havent buffed a car in a bit because i just bought a house and have had other things taking up my time.

Personally i think there is still a good amount of clear left and i could make 2-3 good passes/sessions on it with a orange pad and pretty aggressive product. But again, just want to know others opinion's. ?????

[rmagnus]

Very risky IMO to sand or buff out scratches on a car you don't own. I would make sure he understands the risks and gives you written permission. Two other considerations. One fill the scratch with clear assuming it's not into the base coat before leveling.

Two is stop by an auto body shop preferably a friendly one that can measure the clear. Without knowing what you are working with it's a shot in the dark. Clear coat is pretty thin, older cars are usually thicker but age wears it thin not to mention the auto car washes it's been through.

My suggestion is if your fingernail catches on the scratch fill it first before leveling it.

[Rival]

Very risky IMO to sand or buff out scratches on a car you don't own. I would make sure he understands the risks and gives you written permission. Two other considerations. One fill the scratch with clear assuming it's not into the base coat before leveling.

Two is stop by an auto body shop preferably a friendly one that can measure the clear. Without knowing what you are working with it's a shot in the dark. Clear coat is pretty thin, older cars are usually thicker but age wears it thin not to mention the auto car washes it's been through.

My suggestion is if your fingernail catches on the scratch fill it first before leveling it.

it caught you nail before hand, now it just barely does.....barely

But i already talked to & showed him last night that ive done pretty much all i can and moving any more foward is risky. I did do 1 pass/session with M105 before the TSR 3.0, but that dusted too badly. Ive just never buffed threw clear using a porter cable (my old A$$ one) on flat paint. Edges and corners.....yes.

its a 2012 ford fusion. So its not layered and layered with clear. He also washes it all the time.

[Rsurfer]

Being a good neighbor is nice, but you might become a bad neighbor if you damage his car.
Six tries with an orange pad and TSR is pretty aggressive on one spot.
Can you feel the scratch with your finger nail?

[Rsurfer]

If you felt it before polishing and now barely..you removed enough clear to strike through.
If I were you, I would surrender.

[custmsprty]

You can fix em all, let it go, it's too risky.

[Rival]

Being a good neighbor is nice, but you might become a bad neighbor if you damage his car.
Six tries with an orange pad and TSR is pretty aggressive on one spot.
Can you feel the scratch with your finger nail?

it wasnt just one spot. thats the whole door.

I wasnt working in perfect 2 x 2's. But would cut it into qtr's. top left, lower left, top right, lower right. Very slow passes/movements all the time, slightly over lapping while i work. Ive watched and read pretty much every sticky here.

I learned to really buff with a dewalt 849 at a body shop when i was 19, everytime i burned something and it had to be spot fixed 40 bux came out of my check. a year later i bought the porter cable. Im 32 now.


But yes, you can still slightly catch the scratch with your fingernail. barely, but yes. This is why i am asking, because IMHO, its time to stop without a gauge to check. But i really want it gone, so would like other, experienced guys opinion.

[Rsurfer]

it wasnt just one spot. thats the whole door.

I wasnt working in perfect 2 x 2's. But would cut it into qtr's. top left, lower left, top right, lower right. Very slow passes/movements all the time, slightly over lapping while i work. Ive watched and read pretty much every sticky here.

I learned to really buff with a dewalt 849 at a body shop when i was 19, everytime i burned something and it had to be spot fixed 40 bux came out of my check. a year later i bought the porter cable. Im 32 now.


But yes, you can still slightly catch the scratch with your fingernail. barely, but yes. This is why i am asking, because IMHO, its time to stop without a gauge to check. But i really want it gone, so would like other, experienced guys opinion.

Do you really think an experienced detailer will tell you to go for it? An experienced detailer after feeling the scratch was too deep to buff out would have filled, wet sanded and buffed.

[Rival]

Do you really think an experienced detailer will tell you to go for it? An experienced detailer after feeling the scratch was too deep to buff out would have filled, wet sanded and buffed.

thanks..

[rmagnus]

I feel sorry for the next guy in a couple months that doesn't have a paint guage and tries to remove the remains of these scratches. You'll never know what's been done without playing doctor sleuth. At least you know if he asks you to do more work on it in the future. Keep notes or pics in your files.

Removing scratches is a matter of when not if you'll ever get a burn through. Getting impatient is a kiss of death. It's when you keep chasing perfection when it bites you in the butt.