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Originally Posted by Surfer Nice job. Curious though, if you went to a glaze right after some serious compounding, what happens with the glaze looses it's properties (even with #26 on top) and it goes back to the "compounded" look, wouldn't your customer get pissed???.......or in another way good excuse to come back in for a detail 
Also since I know you use a rotary a lot now, what do you do when your doing the area like the front fender? It's got that curved ridge and that sharp/flat edged right at the end the the fender well, do you use the rotary in that area since I know a lot of people say it can burn right through areas like that almost immedietly? |
Surfer: When I use compounding, I tend to start aggressively and finish as you would with a polish. When I glaze, I tend to work it in for a long time. By the time I use #26, the finish is glass smooth and swirl free. So, if a customer washes the car, it still will look good (unless they are as aggressive with washing as the subject car).
If areas have curves where the rotary "might" damage paint, I switch to the Festool and use their rotary mode with a polish pad. I've already burned an X5 edge because I didn't use a paint guage and it was very thin on an edge. Plus, I used the wrong method on the rotary (followed from the ridge down the valley of the sheet metal).
Here's some pics' after glazing. Adding #26 is more protection at this stage.
Another with the lights in the wall reflecting
Overall shot of the car. I couldn't move it around because we are having an ice storm and we're not putting "fresh" cars out in the nasty weather.
If you think of my glazing as you applying Meguiar's #83 or Klasse AIO, that's the process.
Totoland Mach
Linear Mode
