Very Glossy Silver BMW 545i

[Totoland Mach]

Here's a small pic of the mirror burn. The problem with plastic housings is they are almost impossible to correct with touch-up paint. It usually takes an air brush to get a decent blend. I'm more upset about this than the shop owner!

Toto

[Whitethunder46]

Ouch. Think this is possible with a heavy compound and cutting pad on the PC?

[Totoland Mach]

Whitethunder: the shop owner said the problem with plastic is it can't take heat. The rotary will generate a lot of heat with compound where a pc does not really generate that kind of temperature. Still, a pc with a cutting pad and compound "might" do some damage in a thin area. I suspect the thickness of a mirror housing is thinner than a front bumper, hence the burn I did. I didn't have any problem with the rotary on the bumper after sanding and compounding.

Toto

[sparkie]

Originally Posted by Totoland Mach

Whitethunder: the shop owner said the problem with plastic is it can't take heat. The rotary will generate a lot of heat with compound where a pc does not really generate that kind of temperature. Still, a pc with a cutting pad and compound "might" do some damage in a thin area. I suspect the thickness of a mirror housing is thinner than a front bumper, hence the burn I did. I didn't have any problem with the rotary on the bumper after sanding and compounding.

Toto

Can you believe I done something like that with my PC!

[Truls]

ive burned the bumper on the volvo with the rotary (i had to buy a new one anyhow), but its scary how fast you "burn" plastic parts with it.

[Totoland Mach]

boy, you're right about quickly burning a plastic part. I'm starting on a metallic gray 540 and pointed out to the shop owner that it already has a tiny burn mark on the driver's side mirror....my eyes are getting sharper about where to look for paint damage before I start the work.

Toto

[Whitethunder46]

while we are somewhat on the subject.

I've once heard you can not use compounds and polish on bumpers (I guess because they're plastic).

From reading the little bit here, I have a feeling that is a myth, but you should be very careful? Even if simply using a PC?

[justin30513]

Originally Posted by Totoland Mach

boy, you're right about quickly burning a plastic part. I'm starting on a metallic gray 540 and pointed out to the shop owner that it already has a tiny burn mark on the driver's side mirror....my eyes are getting sharper about where to look for paint damage before I start the work.

Toto

Main difference between plastic and metal.....
Plastic absorbs heat and metall dissapates heat. I was trying to fix a scratch on the bumber of a Bug a couple of months ago and it just melted. I felt it and man, it just was holding a ton of heat in it. It was even gooey to a hard touch.

I'm getting a rotary and doubt I'll ever touch a bumper with it....well it will be a long time.

[Totoland Mach]

I started on another Bimmer tonight and did the lower portion of the car: bumpers, rocker panels...all plastic. Where there were scratches, I used Optimum compound and the rotary or the Festool in rotary mode (depended on working area) and kept the weight of the rotary off the painted plastic. It's a learning process and I would do a small area, wipe off the compound to check my work, and either stop or proceed to do more. Light pressure, light weight, and checking your progress often is the key to painted plastic.

I'll post some pics of this process tomorrow.

Toto

[Nica]

Originally Posted by Totoland Mach

I'll post some pics of this process tomorrow.

Toto

Toto you , I love it when someone posts pics and process I just absorbe it all up.....still new here