Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

[normster]

thanks for that opinion. I can use all the help I can get. I have been hand sanding and it seems to work fine but then sometimes it just doesn't seem to get the really tough lights just right. Or to get them right I have to work very hard. I am also having some trouble since i damaged my hand recently and I think I have some ligament damage. I can still do it but it can sometimes take me an hour on a really rough set and I figured the griot might help cut that time in half and also help save my hands.

I do worry about the machine scratching the paint as I have taped before and even with hand sanding noticed that i got some scratches under the tape once I removed it. I am going to give it a try and see what happens.

You said you returned it. Is that a possibility even if i have used it and realize I don't like it? Did you buy it and return it through autogeek?

Originally Posted by Part-timer

I know you asked Louie these questions but I will add my two cents if thats ok.
I bought the Griot's 3" orbital. Their instructions say to dry sand with most of the grits. I used it like they said and found that the discs do in fact clog up quite often and must be cleaned by wiping with a dry rag(or something made to clean sand paper). I know that many people also own this tool and love it. Everyone has a favorite tool and system that works for them. Try it and judge for your self. I ended up not liking mine and sent it back. I couldn't get used to the dry sanding. The discs clogged often and then put these funny swirl marks on the lens. The tool, (although having many speeds) still spun too fast for me to feel comfortable and safe using it around the painted areas. (Thats just me though)
Many people on here also have their own ideas of what grits to use. I read one once that said they used 400 and then 1500 and then spar. I think the spar is pretty forgiving for a lot of things. I personally judge each lens differently. I did a Lexus yesterday and used 800, 1000, 1500 and 3000. They looked excellent. I've always wanted to take a single lens and tape it off into 4 sections. Then sand one to 800, one to 1000, one to 2000 and one to 3000. Then wipe em with mineral spirits and spar the whole works and see how they compare visually. Someone should do that.......lol
As I've stated before, I do the whole works wet and by hand. It makes for less taping because its more safe by hand(in my mind). It takes me less time by hand.(again, thats just me).

[normster]

I also noticed that in the ad it says the griot has several speed settings. Is there one that you found works the best?

And how do you get in the tight spaces like maybe an inch space between one of those nubs that stick out and a chrome grill? Those always seem to give me trouble and I am wondering if the griot can get up close and tight around those areas so that when I am done I don't have dull spots near the nubs like I sometimes do.

Originally Posted by feslope

My favorite tool for headlights is the Griot 3" RO buffer Griot's Garage Professional Random Orbital 3 Inch Polisher, Random Orbit Buffer, Dual Action Polisher, 3" buffer fitted with a 2 3/4" rotary backing plate 2-3/4 inch Hook & Loop Rotary Backing Plate and the Megiars foam interface pad Meguiars Unigrit 3 Inch Foam Interface Pad, foam backup pad, sanding disc interface . An adapter D.A Adapter 5/8" X 11 is needed to fit the rotary plate to the DA polisher. This is my go to corded tool for headlight correction. I do need AC power and have to make sure it is available. For mobile power you need a generator or a good size inverter. My Wen polisher well do 1 set of headlights on a full charge.

[feslope]

Originally Posted by normster

Thanks for the info. I thought it would be too big of a jump to go from 800 to 1500 but maybe that is because i am hand sanding and the griot makes it work better. So the two jumps- from 800 to 1500 and then from 1500 to 3000 is enough? That would be great. It would eliminate a couple steps and still get the final at 3000 instead of 2000 which I would think would have to be better.

Also, you said that you start with 800 wet if that is your starting grit. Is that just for cars that don't seem to have too many problems?

And I guess since you are using it wet means that the griot can handle the wetsand without hurting it.

For minor oxidation and no real scratches or nicks starting at 800 works ok for me.

If I'm starting at 800 I do it wet. The Griot 3" buffer/polisher is not waterproof and is not meant to be used with water, do so carefully. One of the reasons I use the rotary plate with the DA adapter (Linked in an earlier post) is to get buffer a little farther from the water.

Fred out for a little while, on the way to a weekend with Mike Phillips and about 19 other AutoGeekers.

[Part-timer]

Originally Posted by normster

thanks for that opinion. I can use all the help I can get. I have been hand sanding and it seems to work fine but then sometimes it just doesn't seem to get the really tough lights just right. Or to get them right I have to work very hard. I am also having some trouble since i damaged my hand recently and I think I have some ligament damage. I can still do it but it can sometimes take me an hour on a really rough set and I figured the griot might help cut that time in half and also help save my hands.

I do worry about the machine scratching the paint as I have taped before and even with hand sanding noticed that i got some scratches under the tape once I removed it. I am going to give it a try and see what happens.

You said you returned it. Is that a possibility even if i have used it and realize I don't like it? Did you buy it and return it through autogeek?

I bought mine straight through Griot's and ended up returning it and exchanging it for Griot's 6" orbital, since I do some detailing work as well. I am pretty certain that you can return the machine for a refund though. Ask them before buying it would be best. I ran into a lot of lights that had shapes the sander couldn't reach and I ended up hand sanding those areas anyway. A lot of people love it though and if your having problems with your hand, it may work better for you.

[websdown]

Has anyone sprayed the spar/spirits mixture on for a quicker application and to get in around lens nubs better? Using air brush or spray bottle.

[langman37]

I've bought the aerosal, my plan was to spray in a cup and apply from there; didn't work out too well; the mist is too fine to get much in the cup. I haven't tried spraying directly on the lens, worried about the overspray. I wish you could buy a smaller quanity than the quart, but I will end buying what's avaliable because the results are outstanding. Don't buy the spray unless you want to go to the trouble of covering and taping things to protect from overspray.

[taymon]

I've noticed that a couple Lexus suv's I've done have had their headlights look slightly tinged yellow/green a week later. Not sure if it's my imagination or not, but it appears this color to me even though it has perfect clarity. Does anyone know if that has something to do with Lexus? Or is it maybe because I'm using too much spar or ms in my mixture? I use a 60% spar and 40% ms but sometimes I know the %'s aren't always perfect. Maybe I'm possibly using too much spar and that's why it gets the tinged color after a week...but it hasn't happened on other manufacturer's headlights so I don't know. I'm using the correct and exact clear gloss spar and ms too if anyone was wondering that.

Has anyone else experienced this with Lexus or other cars?

[timaishu]

Mine is sort of the same way. I only did one of my headlights and it doesn't look like the other. Its looks good, but it does have a slight yellow tint to it. I always thought mine was because the plastic is damaged from me compounding it so many times before sealing it with the spar.

[HotWhipT/A]

So I browsed most of this and I got the process figured out, but how about the longevity? I didn't see anybodies follow up.

[Cosmin]

Originally Posted by taymon

I've noticed that a couple Lexus suv's I've done have had their headlights look slightly tinged yellow/green a week later.

Has anyone else experienced this with Lexus or other cars?

lexus reflector has a greenish chrome look , that`s why ...