Nice.
My interest is in the longevity of the sealant. Would you keep us updated?
Yeah, I can do that. I might need reminding once in a while, send me a pm maybe every 6 months. All lights on my work van are now sealed with this sealant. So I will know first hand if it lasts. I have no doubt it will outlast the klasse twins that I was using.
Here is another tip that I have found. Its a precleaner that helps cut the crud and pull most of the yellowing out of the headlights. Its used before wet sanding and buffing, and yes it does work. Here, is a few posts from the guy who shared this system on another forum, describing the pre cleaner, the sealer and application. In his own words:
"Here is the mix.I have used it for over 2 years. Its the same basic chemicals.Works great and you can mix for 5.00 a quart.
about 3 parts Westleys bleach white , white wall cleaner and 1 part Mean Green household cleaner.Its all in Walmart and cheap.Its the same chemicals that Dvelup uses and as is all of their stuff just common off the shelf items .For the sealer just mix Helmspar indoor/outdoor or marine spar urethane and just mix it 1-1 with mineral spirits.It is what they sell you for 75.00 8oz. lol By doing it the smart way its about 8.00 a quart lol....It works the same because it IS the same.
Get a blue Scott paper shop towel and cut in half.Fold 1 part into approximately 1" x1" and use the edge as a wipe.Dip into your Dixie cup that has the sealer mix and just wipe on from top to bottom(always wipe horizontally) and then just do the edges.The sealer will flow out and lay on the lens just as good as spraying and twice as fast.I never have any wipe lines show when cured.I use a heat gun to quick flash them or just turn on the Hi-Beams for a few minutes to set up.
Alcohol is what I use for a final cleaner just before I apply the sealer.Its not caustic enough to clean the crud from some of the real bad damaged lights.The pre-clean mix will draw the yellow and crud right out of the lens.Works real good.
Tim, a foam brush works good too but the Scott towel is much cheaper.JMO"
I use the pre cleaner by spraying the solution on a rag and wiping it on and off to remove the crud. This mixture is probably harmful to paint, so be careful. It basically helps remove the old UV coat sprayed on when it was new. The pic shows how much crud comes off with one wipe with this solution.
Wonderful tip. I just put a coat of the urethane/mineral spirit mix on my freshly sanded headlights.
Someone mentioned the use of a foam brush. That was the first application method I tried, and ended up having to start over. The foam brush wouldn't stop forming bubbles as I applied the mixture. I tried the blue shop towel method and it works like a charm. I almost got it perfect, with the exception of some minor wavy areas. Hopefully it won't affect light output too much.
A few questions: Is one coat enough? Has anyone put more than one? Also, what kind of maintenance should be done after the urethane mixture seals it up? Can we still use wax? 303 (or equivalent uv inhibitor)?
Wonderful tip. I just put a coat of the urethane/mineral spirit mix on my freshly sanded headlights.
Someone mentioned the use of a foam brush. That was the first application method I tried, and ended up having to start over. The foam brush wouldn't stop forming bubbles as I applied the mixture. I tried the blue shop towel method and it works like a charm. I almost got it perfect, with the exception of some minor wavy areas. Hopefully it won't affect light output too much.
A few questions: Is one coat enough? Has anyone put more than one? Also, what kind of maintenance should be done after the urethane mixture seals it up? Can we still use wax? 303 (or equivalent uv inhibitor)?
I would guess that the one coat is enough. I am still testing the durability of this protectant. Although I have not added any wax or sealant to my lights since I restored them, it probably would not hurt if you added some extra protection once in a while, but wait until is has fully cured. I tried the foam brush method too, but had better luck with the blue shop rag. I have to apply it just right, or I have to start over again. It cannot be too thin or too thick.
I also noticed the headlights are very glossy now, as is to be expected from using clear gloss urethane. They look great. Does this gloss last long?
The gloss, so far is still looking good for my lights. But, if they are not kept up with maintenance they will probably fade out like any plastic lens. I doubt this treatment is maintenance free. I would treat them like they were new lights. New lights are made with a UV sealer, I've been told, and they wear out over time if there is no maintenance.
So did I miss the method of applying with the blue shop rag so waves or thin spots are not present.
Scroll up towards the top of this page, I have included some posts from the original creator for this method. In his own words he describes everything you need to know. I came upon this method from another forum, and wanted to share it. I have no participation in creating this method, just sharing it and experimenting. If any one has different ideas or tricks on how to make this method work easier, please share. Also, please post some pics!
I am definately looking forward to trying this method out on my beater daily driver....The hardcoats that you can purchase are expensive, and I hate to just buff out the headlights on customers cars because they start to yellow again after a few months so I am excited to try an inexpensive way to give the headlights a real hardcoat again that will hopefully last a few years and make my services better than the next guy!
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Originally Posted by heatgain
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