Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

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I know you can get 3000trizact sheets at Autozone. You would have to do it by hand but it will get a little clearer. If you go to a body and paint supply shop they should have all kinds of stuff. I buff with the drill but I really just give it a kinda slow one-over. I don't buff and buff for perfection. I also got my pads from the body supply store here. I do not go to a polish step. As some have mentioned there is some concern for adhesion.

I have heard people say they only go to 1500 grit and then spar but to me it's juat not clear. Also someone on here mentioned that they notice the 1500grit finish looks much worse as the spar fails.

[Part-timer]

Thanks, Part-timer. My client decided to move the date for the restoration 'till Sunday. So i have a little more time to prepare myself a little more.

I'll do a test using a 70/30 mix (my daily-beaten driver already needs a restoration). I normally do 50/50, or around 60/50, depending on weather, and situation.

I always try to spend a lot of quality in my tape job, some cars are easy, others not. More time and quality spent on tape job, the faster you are gaining profit. The biggest PITA i've done are small-round headlights, like the late-90s Acura Integra, or some Jaguars. My tape job seems to always give up in the middle of sanding process.

I use a Blue 3m tape, i'll try looking for a stronger-adhesive tape. Last time i went to Home Depot i saw a 3m Orange tape, stronger.

I got a question: How can i achieve a clearer restoration? Spar/ms mix is great, and is pretty clear. Because when i've done crash-repaired vehicles, with only 1 headlight in bad condition and the other one new, the restored one with spar/ms always seems inferior in cristal-clear terms.

EDIT: I have to add that, my process is: Excelent tape job, Wetsanding headlights from 400, 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000 (always use a soap/water mix in a spray bottle), Dry headlights, Clean with IPA, Freshly mix spar/ms, Apply using blue towel trick, and love the shiny new surface.

Thanks

It sounds like you are doing everything right. I would add using compound after your 2000 sanding.
I have also restored only one lens and I feel that the restored one NEVER looks quite as good as the NEW lens.(just my opinion) I don't like it when they only want one lens restored. I will tell them that the new one normally will look slightly better than the restored lens and ask if they'd like me to do the job or not. That way there are no unrealistic expectations of the results and hopefully the customer will be happy. I would much rather let them know up front and avoid problems later. You know what they say, "If people are happy with your service, they will tell a few other people". "If they are unhappy with your services, they will tell EVERYONE they know"!!

[light-bright]

I find that most of my single light jobs look just fine. Now I go to 3000trizact then 3m compound, clean, then clear. I don't recall any of them being noticeably different from the "new" one.

Sent from my BRAIN using psychic powers to AG Online

[kaimanson]

I find that most of my single light jobs look just fine. Now I go to 3000trizact then 3m compound, clean, then clear. I don't recall any of them being noticeably different from the "new" one.

Sent from my BRAIN using psychic powers to AG Online

Doesn't the 3000 grit sandpaper = to compound? In other words if you don't use compound 3000 grit does the job as compound.

[light-bright]

No there is a clear difference from the 3000 and the compound. No pun intended.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using AG Online

[builthatch]

Doesn't the 3000 grit sandpaper = to compound? In other words if you don't use compound 3000 grit does the job as compound.

no way. 3k sanded lights will look way dull and clouded compared to a compounded lens. compound...if it's a good one...should almost finish up like a polish. i've used OPT hyper spray compound with an orange pad on lights prior to a polish step and when i was done the compound step it looked about as good as new...BEFORE even polishing.

[Part-timer]

Doesn't the 3000 grit sandpaper = to compound? In other words if you don't use compound 3000 grit does the job as compound.

Everyone has a preferred method. My advice is to try many different methods and judge what works best for you. I use 400(if needed) then 800, then 1500 and compound, clean with MS and use the Spar(60/40 mix). Mine come out looking brand new nd I have no complaints from my two used car dealers(and personal customers).
I've tried several other methods and products in the last 3 years. I like this best for what I do and who I do it for........but everyone doesn't do what I do and who I do it for. As I said, I suggest you try several options. It's always good to try and learn new things.

[kaimanson]

no way. 3k sanded lights will look way dull and clouded compared to a compounded lens. compound...if it's a good one...should almost finish up like a polish. i've used OPT hyper spray compound with an orange pad on lights prior to a polish step and when i was done the compound step it looked about as good as new...BEFORE even polishing.

No there is a clear difference from the 3000 and the compound. No pun intended.

Thanks for the clarification guys!

[barkeater]

Just came across this thread as I research a project I am getting ready for. I have bought a used set of VW mark v r32/gli/Gti bi xenon headlight housings. Among other things, they have a fairly deep scratch (keyed) on one of the housings, and light scratches on both from normal wear.

I am going to try and repair and restore using the info contained in this thread. As the housings are removed from the car, I am going to apply the minwax product via spray can. I'll try and post up some pics.

[barkeater]