Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

[GalKonz]

Ok guys, long time since i visited the thread. I just updated myself from around page 94 - 95 up to 101... My only question right now is about the part where you have to clean the headlights before coating, you all mention alcohol is better than OMS. 100% alcohol/propanol was mentioned... anyone knows any place where i can educate myself in the differences between the variety of alcohol types we have? I mean, like what's the difference between IPA and 100% alcohol/propanol.

Thanks.

[spewking]

I saw on another post a recipe for stripping headlights using mean green and tire cleaner. Has anyone tried it?

Also, Impalas are becoming an item. Has anyone tried just removing the deteriorated part of the coating then recoating the entire headlight? If the original coating is as tough as it seems, the only problem would be if the coating you're using would stick to the original coating and not chemically interfere. Might be a great time saver.
ray6

Ray, I used the SG/Bleache white mix on my first spar retoration on a 2002 Toyota Sequoia. It seemed to work great..powerful stuff...scrubbed with a 3m potscrubber (the coarse material found on the back of a sponge)...taped garbage bags below and on sides of headlight to protect paint...then cleaned with IPA, then prepped with min sp and then applied the spar mix.

I'd recommend.

David

[ray6]

Ok guys, long time since i visited the thread. I just updated myself from around page 94 - 95 up to 101... My only question right now is about the part where you have to clean the headlights before coating, you all mention alcohol is better than OMS. 100% alcohol/propanol was mentioned... anyone knows any place where i can educate myself in the differences between the variety of alcohol types we have? I mean, like what's the difference between IPA and 100% alcohol/propanol.

Thanks.

With respect to headlight restoration, the differences between different types of alcohol doesn't matter. As a solvent, alcohol is alcohol.

A good alcohol to use would be denatured alcohol from Home Depot or Lowes. It is 99.5% with the addition of a substance added to make it taste bad, thus denatured. Without this addition, it would be considered drinkable and be taxed the same as gin or vodka.

Mineral spirits (paint thinner) can also be used, but is not hygroscopic (combines and captures water) and evaporates slower.

The most efficient use of alcohol is to clean off any moisture from the headlight before applying your coating.

We always recommend wiping a headlight with alcohol before quoting a restoration job to a customer to determine if there is any internal deterioration (cloudiness on the inside of the headlight which is rare, and water droplets, not so rare). In this situation mineral spirits would also work, and actually give you more time to inspect the headlight because it evaporates slower.

So, denatured alcohol, methanol, propanol, methyl alcohol, ethanol, methylated spirits, etc. is all the same for our purposes.

The one exception is rubbing alcohol, which is typically 30% water. This alcohol will not adsorb moisture as well as 100%, although it will still work.

In bulk, denatured alcohol is less than 15 cents per ounce.

Mineral spirits, also known as paint thinner, is derived from passing steam through coal, then removing the water. Odor free mineral spirits is a higher grade because it is distilled again to remove the stink. Usually means a higher quality product, but I've never seen any difference as far as solvent capability. We routinely use straight paint thinner to flush out our bottling machines between product runs.

Home Depot/Lowes is probably a good source. Expect to pay about the same as alcohol. I would stay away from bargain brands at lower prices. Woludn't want to take a chance to save a few cents.

Whenever you find any brand that works for you, stick with it. Don't substitute to save money or a trip across town. You don't want to have a problem six months after a restoration.
ray6

[GP49]

Good summary, Ray.

But note that the denaturants used in denatured alcohol can vary. I ran across a brand several years back that etched plastic. It may have had toluene in it, or some other solvent. The manufacturers can use just about anything and don't disclose the formula because they consider it "proprietary."

[davidc11291]

That's scary. What are some brands that have worked good for you? Something easily found at Home Depot.

[GP49]

I've got three gallons of Klean-Strip "S-L-X Denatured Alcohol" in the garage right now. It seemed to be OK when I tried it, so I bought a couple more cans.

It could have been some variation in the plastic that made it vulnerable, too; but the Klean-Strip stuff didn't fog it.

[ray6]

Good summary, Ray.

But note that the denaturants used in denatured alcohol can vary. I ran across a brand several years back that etched plastic. It may have had toluene in it, or some other solvent. The manufacturers can use just about anything and don't disclose the formula because they consider it "proprietary."

We buy 55 gallons at a time from a wholesaler, but many of our dealers use SLX from Home Depot and haven't had problems, but who knows what they might use to denature in the future. Even though, the time the alcohol is on bare polycarbonate is probably safe enough.
ray6

[ray6]

Good summary, Ray.

But note that the denaturants used in denatured alcohol can vary. I ran across a brand several years back that etched plastic. It may have had toluene in it, or some other solvent. The manufacturers can use just about anything and don't disclose the formula because they consider it "proprietary."

Good point. They might also use MEK or acetone.
ray6

[ray6]

[QUOTE=spewking;719806]Ray, I used the SG/Bleache white mix on my first spar retoration on a 2002 Toyota Sequoia. It seemed to work great..powerful stuff...scrubbed with a 3m potscrubber (the coarse material found on the back of a sponge)...taped garbage bags below and on sides of headlight to protect paint...then cleaned with IPA, then prepped with min sp and then applied the spar mix.

I'd recommend.

David

Thanks for the heads up David. I'll check it out (competition?). Another way of masking instead of garbage bags is kitchen wrap. You can get it up to 24" wide by 2000 feet and it is dirt cheap. Spray a little water on the surface and it will stick like a magnet.
ray6

[Always Learning]

I've noticed on the last couple restores I've done that they look great in the daylight with the lights off, but if the lights are turned on I can see some fogginess. Its more noticeable at night.

Is this something I'm doing wrong?

Method:
girot with a foam interface pad,
400, 600, 800 dry
1500 first dry then damp
3000 damp (tried both just using girot only and girot followed up by 3000 on cordless drill)
Cleaned with Odorless Mineral Spirits
Cleaned again with proponal

Waited a moment to be sure fully dry
Applied Spar mixture approx 50/50

Thanks