(5th) Candy White Golf 6 Gti - Detailed by Lawrence

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Aah ok just noticed you needed more cut from 2300 to not just clean up after 300 but to remove remaining defects too.

That's strange, as 300 should have more cut.

[Desertnate]

The GTI looks great!

Did you do anything to the brake calipers? They seem to look darker and less faded in the post-detail pictures of the wheels. Have you found anything to put on them which will stop the fading? That single stage red paint just doesn't stay shiny very long for me.

[Zubair]

That's strange, as 300 should have more cut.

It does have more cut but he needed 2300 to do some additional less aggressive cutting to get the paint ideally corrected given the circumstances. Knowing Lawrence his religious about test spots and found this combination to be ideal.

When I work on hard paints like G6/7 I cut with rotary and wool and finish with long throw and polish. With the advent of Rupes MKII I can hit it with the MKII and MF or hard foam and finish with softer foam and polish. Many different ways to skin a cat.

[Sicoupe]

Another outstanding job my friend! always look forward to your posts.

[RaydiantDetail]

Nice work! I enjoy your write ups!
Oh boy, I am going to be correcting a 2012 Metallic Black GTI in the coming weeks.
I quoted for a two step as well, hope it works out that way! lol

[lawrenceSA]

Firstly, thank you all so much for your kind words

That's strange, as 300 should have more cut.

Believe me, the SHC300 was cutting.... but just not deep enough...

I find it unlikely, but obviously not impossible, that the paint on this, the 5th candy white golf 6 gti (but the 13th vw in candy white) I have corrected, was harder than the others.. I encountered the same sort of levels of marring I would with the compounds and the same level of cut from the finishing polishes I have encountered on this specific VW color and on the other 40 odd VW's in various colors I've done.... leading me to believe it is the depth of the defects that make it appear that the polish isn't cutting as much....

Zubair knows me well enough that he got it spot on below.

It does have more cut but he needed 2300 to do some additional less aggressive cutting to get the paint ideally corrected given the circumstances. Knowing Lawrence his religious about test spots and found this combination to be ideal.

My test spot started with SF4000 and on white pad.... obviously there was a bit of gloss but no real correction..
Stepped up to PF2300 / white, then
FG400 / orange
FG400/ foamed wool
SHC300 / foamed wool (at this point I realised I need more cut still as you can see from the 2nd pic in the paint correction sequence on the door.)
I stepped back to FG400 / orange but it still wasnt enough
So landed up choosing SHC300 / foamed wool x 2 but as you can see from the 3rd pic, there is still a fair amount of deeper scratches left.
I did a spot with SF4000/black which pulled out all the hazing in from the initial cutting, but those deeper scratches still remained.

So I switched from SF4000 to PF2300 which has a little more cut (think it was 5/10 compared to SF4000 at 4/10 on the old, different, before the other one, but not the new labelling system chart they had on the their website). The choice of orange pad over say a white or black was again based on the finding a little more cut.

The paint just looked better with slightly less clarity in the paint from the PF2300/orange than it did with SF4000/black, but that lack of clarity was waaaay more difficult to see than spotting the additional swirls left behind by the SF4000.... so that's what I went with....

[lawrenceSA]

The GTI looks great!

Did you do anything to the brake calipers? They seem to look darker and less faded in the post-detail pictures of the wheels. Have you found anything to put on them which will stop the fading? That single stage red paint just doesn't stay shiny very long for me.

Yes, when I was cleaning the wheels I hit them with some APC and a bit of the shampoo I was using to clean the wheels, agitated it and pressure rinsed off. Then once dry I applied some Gyeon Cure to them. As for a winner in terms of longevity.... I'm really not sure to be honest.... perhaps you could look into a coating?

[WRAPT C5Z06]

It does have more cut but he needed 2300 to do some additional less aggressive cutting to get the paint ideally corrected given the circumstances.

300 should be able to take out every original defect that 2300 could. Those deeper scratches that still remained after 300 must have been deeper haze left behind, so it took 2300 to "clean up" those instead of 4000. Your statement above, "2300 to not just clean up after 300 but to remove remaining defects too" would be saying that 2300 removed original defects that 300 couldn't remove. If tht's the case, that's very odd.

[lawrenceSA]

300 should be able to take out every original defect that 2300 could. Those deeper scratches that still remained after 300 must have been deeper haze left behind, so it took 2300 to "clean up" those instead of 4000. Your statement above, "2300 to not just clean up after 300 but to remove remaining defects too" would be saying that 2300 removed original defects that 300 couldn't remove. If tht's the case, that's very odd.

I'd like to try and clarify this some more. There is no way that PF2300 cut more than SHC300. Nor is it that the scratches left behind after the initial cut with SHC300 were just haze from the initial cut...

Let's say hypothetically that on this paint, the Menzerna polishes removed x 'layers' of paint, based on their aggressiveness.... so for example, let's say:

SHC 300 removes 10 layers - I know paint isn't in layers, but for the purpose of this explanation, just bear with me
FG400 removes 8
PF2300 removes 5
SF4000 removes 4

Now, let's assume that the scratches in the paint run 25 layers deep into the paint.

What will happen when you cut the paint with SHC300? 10 layers of paint will be removed and you will have scratches that are now 15 additional layers deep.
Hit it again with SHC300 and now your scratches are only 5 layers deep into the remaining paint.
Had I hit it with SF4000 there would be scratches still 1 layer deep, so hitting it with PF2300 meant they were all gone.

I hope that makes sense?

[VISITOR]

top notch work as always, thanks for sharing!