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wow.. well done on the scrap removal..

that 9th pic looks like a matchbox car :)

good job...

although by the title i was expecting a UV-off, ie UV protection test :) hehe

ahh ok - thanks..

yeah it sounds like its just a lubrication rather than specific gear type oil requirement.

lithium grease might be a good way to go, excess oil might run onto the pads/car...

perfect picture :)

is air tool oil like sewing machine oil - and no i have never used a sewing machine but i know where to buy the oil :P

thanks :)

what sort of oil/lube for the felt ring guys?

Hi Guys,

I'm excited - the Fedex man dropped off my new (and first) kit this morning. I will open it all up and post up a pic of the stuff I got tonight :)

Firstly - A massive thanks to...

which air filter? the cabin one or the engine one?

if your driving a performance car then change it more often than the MFC states, otherwise just do it whenever the MFC says.

they are cheap...

use until visually dirty...

im sure others/betters will be able to elaborate more :)

you can wash and kneed the clay and get rid of 50+% of the crap in it..

but generally clays will only last a little while...

i have a couple of different clays, 1 for wheels, 1 for upper body,...

is this why some of these pads are on back order?

does it affect kompressors as well?

Damn I wish I knew about this a few days ago - I would have had AG tack this and the wheel brush onto my order..

^ ouch

claying removes surface contaminants - like paint overspray, bird crap, industrial fallout, stubborn dust/dity

wet sanding is much more dramatic, and will take a layer of your paint or clear coat...

as soon as Obama sends resources or tries to clean up then they take responsibility, they can't send BP the bill afterwards because BP will just say - "we could have done that cheaper" and then Obama...

yeh those videos are good! Thanks Mike!

Your president needs to start talking about mandatory jail time for exec's involved in environmental disasters...

I could understand BP's situation during the first few weeks, but seriously what...

I spoke to Jerry about #105/#111 and he said that #105 is "newer" and contains more cleaner as well.

From my experience #111 is a bit harder to apply (can't see it that well) and it's a smaller...

I am not a pro-detailer by any means but try:
1) cleaning with DG #501
2) preping for sealant with DG #601
3) sealing with DG #105
4) topping with DG #951 (aquawax)

This looks pretty good on...

as they say - ignorance is bliss :)

what about using some of those "silica gel" moisture absorbing satchels?

just stick a couple of them in with your pads once they are "dry enough to be stored"?

If your like me (and it sounds like it) you havn't used a DA or Rotary before.

In which case most people will recommend you start with a DA - the risk of burning paint with a rotary is quite high...

is the shelf life short because of the exposure to air in the mixing process OR is it because the chemicals are mixing?

i wonder if you can just "mix" them on the pad? or do you think the...

Yeah I like DG#105 as well - although I dont know how long it lasts to be honest...

last time I just put it on on its own, next time I will #501 to clean it then #601 prep, then #105... see if...

thanks guys...

well i ordered the intro kit, with megs 105/205 and a 6pack of kompressors, i asked AG to put 6" or 7" depending whats appropriate...

yeh i have asked AG to confirm which is the best fit..

seems to be some confusion over whether the 3401 kit has a 5.5 or 6 inch backing plate...