Orbital wiring....

[dustthisnsx]

Hey Guys,

Long story short, opened my Snap-on et1470 type 100 orbital to clean up the contacts in the trigger but didn't take note of the wires....

Oh and I knocked the tin over with all the ittybitty switch parts. good times Did some searching and located a replacement switch as seen below. Only difference was that it's rated at 12amp rather than the original 8.

Now that I've got a new switch I need a wiring diagram.. I've exhausted my googling capabilities and have phoned repair centers and manufactures only to get 'we don't provide those as you may shock yourself' well, I'm going to shock myself w/o it! haha

What I'm looking for is someone with a working knoledge of these things to help me connect the wires correctly. thanks

Images of the unit and wires are at home and I will upload those tonight but here's the best diagram I could find on it. Note the switch has 5 wires.

_Paul

[Mike Phillips]

Keep plugging away at it, you'll figure it out.

It's possible one of our members might be able to help out, we have some pretty sharp folks on here...

Also, looks like a diagram for a rotary buffer, not an orbital...

[dustthisnsx]

Keep plugging away at it, you'll figure it out.

It's possible one of our members might be able to help out, we have some pretty sharp folks on here...

Also, looks like a diagram for a rotary buffer, not an orbital...

Thanks Mike, I'll get the termanolgy figured out sooner or later

Here's the unit (not mine as mines much cleaner )


and here's the variable speed switch

[dustthisnsx]

Label


old switch



New and old switch


dilemma...

[tuscarora dave]

Take notice that your new switch assembly is marked load on one side and line on the other. What I see is 5 wires, 2 coming from the cord itself (these are the "line" wires) then you have 2 going to the brush holder assembly (these will be your "load" wires). These 4 wires appear to be tinned on the ends (that means the stranded ends have been soldered so they will be stiff enough to insert into the switch contact holes) The 5th wire has a spade terminal of sorts on the end. It looks to me like the black wire with the spade terminal can only go in the center of the switch between the line side and the load side (it looks like there's a female spade connection there in the center) Then your white and black wires with the tinned ends from the cord will be inserted into the holes marked "line", then insert the black and red wires with the tinned ends from the brush holder assembly into the holes marked "load".

Again, the power coming in from the cord is the "line" and the power coming from the switch to the motor is the "load", the wire with the spade terminal is likely the potentiometer or variable speed wire and should only fit into one unique location.

the black line and black load wires likely go on one side and the white line and red load likely go into the other side of the switch.

I hope I didn't lose you with the last part, a switch is a switch. insert both your cord wires into the line side first then with the load wires, match black to black and red to white.

[tuscarora dave]

One more thing for safety sake. When you wire up the switch like I have said, plug the tool into a GFCI recepticle to test the tool before putting everything back together. Wire up the switch then plug the cord into a GFCI recepticle and lightly squeeze the trigger. If the GFCI recepticle trips then I was wrong and the black line wire and the red load wire both go on the same side of the switch and the white line and black load on the other side.

[feslope]

Take notice that your new switch assembly is marked load on one side and line on the other. What I see is 5 wires, 2 coming from the cord itself (these are the "line" wires) then you have 2 going to the brush holder assembly (these will be your "load" wires). These 4 wires appear to be tinned on the ends (that means the stranded ends have been soldered so they will be stiff enough to insert into the switch contact holes) The 5th wire has a spade terminal of sorts on the end. It looks to me like the black wire with the spade terminal can only go in the center of the switch between the line side and the load side (it looks like there's a female spade connection there in the center) Then your white and black wires with the tinned ends from the cord will be inserted into the holes marked "line", then insert the black and red wires with the tinned ends from the brush holder assembly into the holes marked "load".

Again, the power coming in from the cord is the "line" and the power coming from the switch to the motor is the "load", the wire with the spade terminal is likely the potentiometer or variable speed wire and should only fit into one unique location.

the black line and black load wires likely go on one side and the white line and red load likely go into the other side of the switch.

I hope I didn't lose you with the last part, a switch is a switch. insert both your cord wires into the line side first then with the load wires, match black to black and red to white.

Excellent description.

One more thing for safety sake. When you wire up the switch like I have said, plug the tool into a GFCI recepticle to test the tool before putting everything back together. Wire up the switch then plug the cord into a GFCI recepticle and lightly squeeze the trigger. If the GFCI recepticle trips then I was wrong and the black line wire and the red load wire both go on the same side of the switch and the white line and black load on the other side.

Good safety advice.

Nice write-up Dave.

[BillE]

Dave gave you a great explanation, but if you are still in the dark (and have some time) grab your Snap-On man and have him get the wiring diagram.

My thoughts: That buffer looks familiar, but for life of me, I can't remember who/what the real manufacture is. I'm thinking DeWalt.

Bill

[tuscarora dave]

Dave gave you a great explanation, but if you are still in the dark (and have some time) grab your Snap-On man and have him get the wiring diagram.

My thoughts: That buffer looks familiar, but for life of me, I can't remember who/what the real manufacture is. I'm thinking DeWalt.

Bill

That would be the best course of action.

I am second guessing myself about the red wire this morning, now that I got some rest and can think a little better. Any single phase 120 volt motor that I have ever worked on had the hot wire on one side of the brush holder and the common (or neutral) wire on the opposite side of the brush holder. Being that the black spade terminal end wire and the red tinned end wire go to the same side of the brush holder, I am thinking the red wire is full voltage load wire (for when the trigger is fully depressed and the variable speed is no longer being used) and the thinner tinned end black wire would be the neutral (or common) wire.

It would look like this.

[dustthisnsx]

Holly COW guys! Thanks for all the info! currently testing these methods, stand by