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  1. #71
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Quote Originally Posted by 87rx7chick View Post
    update.

    so my next step is to use the #7 show glaze, then follow up with sealer (pb ex-p, pb polish and seal or opti-poly-seal) then follow up with a wax (3m show car paste wax or nxt)


    unfortunatly only pads i have are orange, white, green, black.

    so i could apply glaze with green or black, and then apply the seal with black, and apply the wax by hand or with black



    NOTE :
    i know there are better products out there and yes i will buy them as well as more LC pads, but right now this is what i have and what i have done already!!!

    The M07 Show Car Glaze is a very oily product, (it's supposed to be), and my personal experience is that it doesn't apply well with a really soft finishing pad, it's just too gushy. So if you want to apply by machine try a polishing pad like your white polishing pad. For the Flex 3401, probably a speed setting around the 3 or 4 would owrk best.

    You could also apply by hand using a clean, soft foam or microfiber applicator pad.

    Couple of tips,

    Thin application
    Apply a thin coat to a panel at a time and then remove with a clean, soft microfiber polishing cloth.

    A panel = a Door, or a Hood, or Fender

    Don't let it dry
    #7 doesn't not need to dry nor should you allow it to dry, it's a WOWO non-abrasive pure polish or glaze.

    Remove in stages
    Usually if I use this product I would apply to a panel then get most of it off the panel and then make a second and maybe even a third pass, that is don't try to rub it 100% off from each square inch you're working on in real-time. Remove most of it off the panel, it's okay is you leave behind a few smears here and then just get most of it off, and the re-wipe the panel and be sure to fold you microfiber to a clean, fresh side.


    Been around since the Model T
    M07 Has bee around since the early 1920's and the head chemist at Meguiar's told me he's never touched the formula, so the only one that has created and modified the formula over all these years would be Frank Meguiar Jr. and after him Malcolm Meguiar, both of whom are no longer with us.


    The glass bottle to the far left is only post-WWII but it's been around since the 1920's. The bottle second from the right came out during the transition of the name change from Sealer & Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze.


  2. #72
    Super Member SRHTX's Avatar
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    Cool Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Quote Originally Posted by detaildave View Post
    "87rx7chick" looks like your finding your process, products, tools, technique & good luck with your new skills.

    I think that what Steve did by helping out another member here was more than COOL & you should be recognized for going above board to help her (87rx7chick) out. Cudo's to you Steve & it's people like you that STEP-UP that makes this world a better place.

    Stephen R. Hollon, Jr
    Pearland, TX
    (956) 357-7696 – Cell/Text / srhtx@yahoo.com

  3. #73
    Super Member Da Fats's Avatar
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    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    87rx8chick Dont discredit the Poorboy's stuff... I absolutely love EX-P sealant and it's priced well. The glaze has been impressive everytime I have used it but it is an extra step for most. Throw some natty's red on top of the EX-P it for a big .

    How was the Foam-wool purple LC pad to use? I need to try this one out. I am also gonna have to pick up some 205/105 I think.... I just hear to much good stuff about them. I have been playing with the PB SSR line up... and have used Poli-seal a ton customers cars.

    Little trick for guys using Poli-seal... Add 1 ounce of opti-seal to the poliseal and mix well for extra protection and longevity out of your AIO! Check the optimum boards for the exact mix ratio.

  4. #74
    Regular Member 87rx7chick's Avatar
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    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Quote Originally Posted by Da Fats View Post
    87rx8chick Dont discredit the Poorboy's stuff... I absolutely love EX-P sealant and it's priced well. The glaze has been impressive everytime I have used it but it is an extra step for most. Throw some natty's red on top of the EX-P it for a big .

    How was the Foam-wool purple LC pad to use? I need to try this one out. I am also gonna have to pick up some 205/105 I think.... I just hear to much good stuff about them. I have been playing with the PB SSR line up... and have used Poli-seal a ton customers cars.

    Little trick for guys using Poli-seal... Add 1 ounce of opti-seal to the poliseal and mix well for extra protection and longevity out of your AIO! Check the optimum boards for the exact mix ratio.
    i didnt discredit anything. did i? i used both ex-p and polish-seal on my car in the last 2 days....

    105 and 205 are amazing

    lake country CCS pads are also amazing.


    i dont know about only using one brand for everything. not one brand can be amazing at everything can they? maybe they can but i just like trying new things

    and besides, if your compound and polish work so well and create SUCH a glossy surface. everything else just.. well i honestly couldnt see much of an improvement from 105 to 205 to polish seal to seal to wax... it all looked the same because the polish and foam/wool pad were just SOOO good!!!!!! and the tool of course !!!

  5. #75
    Super Member SRHTX's Avatar
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    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Quote Originally Posted by 87rx7chick View Post
    well i honestly couldnt see much of an improvement from 105 to 205 to polish seal to seal to wax... it all looked the same because the polish and foam/wool pad were just SOOO good!!!!!! and the tool of course !!!

    he he he............
    Stephen R. Hollon, Jr
    Pearland, TX
    (956) 357-7696 – Cell/Text / srhtx@yahoo.com

  6. #76
    Super Member Da Fats's Avatar
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    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Wish I had done a littel more research before pulling the trigger onthe pc xp but oh well... I think a rotary is soon going to be in my future and hopefully Asphalt Rockett will be good enough to give me a couple pointers to speed me through the learning curve. I would love to be able to finish out my vehicles with a rotary like he does

    If I could go back I'd probably get the griots from wha tI am reading about it lately.

    Has anyone tried the 6.5 foamed wool pads on the PC ?

  7. #77
    Regular Member 87rx7chick's Avatar
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    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Quote Originally Posted by Da Fats View Post
    Wish I had done a littel more research before pulling the trigger onthe pc xp but oh well... I think a rotary is soon going to be in my future and hopefully Asphalt Rockett will be good enough to give me a couple pointers to speed me through the learning curve. I would love to be able to finish out my vehicles with a rotary like he does

    If I could go back I'd probably get the griots from wha tI am reading about it lately.

    Has anyone tried the 6.5 foamed wool pads on the PC ?
    the foam wool pad i've found is very very mild. like i said before when i used steves it left almost no marks what so ever on my paint. i had a few here and there that looked like normal washing marks. i used 105 and the purple foam wool pad. its great, very mild yet very very effective.
    rotory is over rated. lol!!! i used one at first and it removes alot of material. i dont think i would recomend it for OEM application. maybe mike can chime in about that. i had aLOT of clear coat to learn on.. 3 coats of thick clear on that bad boy.

  8. #78
    SELF BANNED ASPHALT ROCKET's Avatar
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    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Quote Originally Posted by Da Fats View Post
    Wish I had done a littel more research before pulling the trigger onthe pc xp but oh well... I think a rotary is soon going to be in my future and hopefully Asphalt Rockett will be good enough to give me a couple pointers to speed me through the learning curve. I would love to be able to finish out my vehicles with a rotary like he does

    If I could go back I'd probably get the griots from wha tI am reading about it lately.

    Has anyone tried the 6.5 foamed wool pads on the PC ?
    Hopefully this week we can get together and I can show you how to work a rotary correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by 87rx7chick View Post
    the foam wool pad i've found is very very mild. like i said before when i used steves it left almost no marks what so ever on my paint. i had a few here and there that looked like normal washing marks. i used 105 and the purple foam wool pad. its great, very mild yet very very effective.
    rotory is over rated. lol!!! i used one at first and it removes alot of material. i dont think i would recomend it for OEM application. maybe mike can chime in about that. i had aLOT of clear coat to learn on.. 3 coats of thick clear on that bad boy.
    There is nothing wrong with a rotary on oem paints, you must remember it is not the tool that does the damage, it is the one working the tool that does.

  9. #79
    Super Member Da Fats's Avatar
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    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Dana

    I am free all week except monday and friday if you have anything coming up this week.

    If its on thursday I'd have to head out around 3 or 4 pm so I can get to work by 7pm


    chris

  10. #80
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: 4 Part Process Still Has Swirls?

    Quote Originally Posted by 87rx7chick View Post

    rotary is over rated. lol!!! i used one at first and it removes alot of material.

    i dont think i would recomend it for OEM application.

    maybe mike can chime in about that.
    It's all about choosing the right tool for the job. The rotary buffer offers a lot of correction power but before a person can use the power for good they must first learn to use and control the rotary buffer.

    If this venture was your entrance into machine polishing then you started out with the hardest tool to learn to master but the best tool for removing sanding marks. As for OEM paints and re-paints, the rotary will work equally well on both systems but with factory paint you always have the thin factor and the fully cured factor and with repaints you usually have a thick film-build to work on and generally speaking softer paint as long as you get on it within a few days to a few weeks depending upon how the painter mixed the paint.


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