Quote:
Originally Posted by budman3 Here is a simple list of what I do in order to get optimal results with the PB SSRs (my favorite polish with a PC or UDM):
-Always use a polishing pad (or orange ... if careful) with SSR2.5 (it'll remove a ton of swirls, if not do another pass or bump up to another product)
-DO NOT PRIME WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE PRODUCT ITSELF (very crucial)
-Apply a thin bead of product around the pad for each section of the car
-Spread it at whatever speed you want, work it in at Speed 6.... don't be afraid of speed 6.
-Work it in until very clear (may take a few minutes)
-If the product begins to build up on the pad, brush off with stiff brush or wipe off excess polish with a terry towel
-Wipe off
-Admire no swirls
-Go to finer polish (if needed- with the polishing pad you most likely don't NEED to follow up but it wouldn't hurt).
-Do not use a new pad that hasn't been washed- Pads come from the factory with small foam particles left in the pad that look like product dust.
The orange pad will dry out the product faster so I usually use a white polishing pad. however, recently I used SSR2.5 with an orange light cut pad and was able to go right to wax.
blkyukon has pictures of what the SSR 2.5 looks like through its polishing stages: Polish Break Down Stages - Poorboys SSR2.5 |
Holy cow Budman! I took a look at the link you posted and now I know for SURE that i've been applying too much polish. Actually, what he shows on the pad is about what I applied everytime I put some on the pad. Apparently, once the pad is primed I was supposed to cut that amount in half....I sure didn't do that.

I didn't realize that once a pad was primed that you didn't need to use as much. Live and learn I guess.
Also, the stages of breakdown were good to see. It's harder to see those stages on my red Jeep though...but they did show me that I need to work it a bit longer though. however, putting less SSR on the pad will also help a lot.
thanks again, you're a life saver!
Brad