What is "Dry Buffing" and what are the consequences?

[makdaddy626]

About to try out the PC for the first time this afternoon, and while reading some here and on other places I've heard people talk about "dry buffing" and to avoid it. I'm assuming that dry buffing is just running the polisher with to little or no product? How can you tell if you're using to little and what are the consequences?

[budman3]

Yup, that is when the pad is essentiall dry rubbing against the surface. Polishes not only contain abrasives that polish away swirls but also lubricants to keep the pad from doing damage. You don't need to be overly concerned with dry buffing with the PC. As long as you are doing proper sized panels (fender, half a door, 1/4 hood, 1/2 truck) and are applying product each time (either a few dime sized drops or a thin bead around the pad), you'll be fine.

Dry buffing will leave the paint in the same condition as it was before polishing or worse. You could leave it with heavy micromarring if you are using an aggressive pad. However, if you stick with polishing pads, you'll reduce the risk of major damage... but most likely you'll be fine.

[makdaddy626]

Thanks budman. That definately makes me feel better, just wanted to know if there was some way for a real idiot (me) to mess up something that was supposed to be "idiot proof"

[budman3]

It really is idiot proof though... I think you'll figure that out once you use it though. A little machine time and you'll be comfortable in no time. To add to the above, a lot of rotary holograms are created by using a wool pad with not enough product = dry buffing.

Good luck with it this afternoon.

[trhland]

i would use optimum polishes they dont dry out that fast . they have a long buffing time . thats all i uses for polishing

[makdaddy626]

Thanks (everyone) for the advice. I'll be using XMT 360 this afternoon, no time to switch products now. Time to hope for the best and give it try...