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Thread: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

  1. #21
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    Quote Originally Posted by batcat420 View Post

    Great work, Mike and students! Bookmarking this for sure.
    It's a process anyone can duplicate in their driveway.



    Quote Originally Posted by batcat420 View Post

    I've had to refresh this thread several times but eventually all of the pictures showed up.

    Try that, guys.

    I wasn't so much you refreshing your screen as it was me re-uploading all the pictures and then re-inserting them as the URL page code changed for each picture.

    Took me about 20 minutes to re-upload and re-code. Since there's a lot of chatter in the Facebook world about this thread I wanted to make sure everyone could see the pictures.


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  2. #22
    Member batcat420's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    ...the Porter Cable 7424XP with a Cyclo Gray Interior brush takes all the work out of the job and does a much better job than you and your arm.
    I would think that the bristles on this brush would be too soft versus the Aqua or White options. Did you also use the Gray brush on the plastic trim?
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  3. #23
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    Quote Originally Posted by Angus View Post

    What's Nick doing with the dryer?

    Blowing the wet tire coating into all the nooks?

    Or drying the tire so the next coat can be applied sooner?

    Like Frank said, he's doing both.


    This is the technique I use when I coat my 40" Toyos on my Silverado. The idea being two fold,

    1. Using forced air to push the liquid coating into all the cracks and crevices evenly. This is really helpful if you have a tire with siping on the sidewall. (The grooved lines).

    2. Using forced air to speed up the drying time so while physically already all set-up to coat a tire might as well stay there till you've applied the number of coats you want to apply. For this truck I think we applied 2 coats to each tire, maybe 3.


    The Metro-Vac Sidekick is a really handy tool to have around for all types of detailing related projects.


    There's two to choose from, one comes with the basic rubber nozzles and the other comes with a 3 foot flexible hose.

    Metro Blaster SideKick

    Metro Blaster SideKick Professional Series


    You could also do the same thing with the DP Turbo Car Dryer.


    DP Turbo Car Dryer


    Definitely blasting the sidewall with air makes the coating process better and faster.


    Tip
    Keep some spray detailer or some glass cleaner nearby when coating the tires and if you getting any of the coating on the rims then wipe it off quickly.


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  4. #24
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    Quote Originally Posted by Batcave View Post

    I would think that the bristles on this brush would be too soft versus the Aqua or White options.
    The bristles on the gray brush are soft but they wear well. The bristles on the white brushes tend to spread out and stay spread out with use. The green bristles seem to hold their shape pretty well.

    I chose the gray brushes as a precaution as I didn't want the plastic cladding to get any scratches in it and didn't want to take the time to swap brushes during the process.

    While the bristles on the gray brush are soft at the speed the polisher scrubs they still do a great job and both the tires and the plastic cladding came out perfect.


    Quote Originally Posted by batcat420 View Post

    Did you also use the Gray brush on the plastic trim?
    Yes and hand scrubbed two as we only had 2 Porter Cables outside for this project.







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  5. #25
    Senior Member Angus's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek View Post
    Like Frank said, he's doing both.


    This is the technique I use when I coat my 40" Toyos on my Silverado. The idea being two fold,

    1. Using forced air to push the liquid coating into all the cracks and crevices evenly. This is really helpful if you have a tire with siping on the sidewall. (The grooved lines).

    2. Using forced air to speed up the drying time so while physically already all set-up to coat a tire might as well stay there till you've applied the number of coats you want to apply. For this truck I think we applied 2 coats to each tire, maybe 3.


    The Metro-Vac Sidekick is a really handy tool to have around for all types of detailing related projects.


    There's two to choose from, one comes with the basic rubber nozzles and the other comes with a 3 foot flexible hose.

    Metro Blaster SideKick

    Metro Blaster SideKick Professional Series


    You could also do the same thing with the DP Turbo Car Dryer.


    DP Turbo Car Dryer


    Definitely blasting the sidewall with air makes the coating process better and faster.


    Tip
    Keep some spray detailer or some glass cleaner nearby when coating the tires and if you getting any of the coating on the rims then wipe it off quickly.


    Thanks Mike! I'll try this next time I coat a set of tires w/ my MasterBlaster using only 1 motor. Great tip on the spray detailer too. I'll probably hold a mf towel in the same direction I'm blowing product in to catch any loose liquid before it has a chance to get onto the paint.

  6. #26
    Senior Member High Caliber's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    I was so impressed with the Solutions Finish plastic restore, that I purchased a bottle.

  7. #27
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    Quote Originally Posted by Angus View Post

    Thanks Mike! I'll try this next time I coat a set of tires w/ my MasterBlaster using only 1 motor.

    Great tip on the spray detailer too. I'll probably hold a mf towel in the same direction I'm blowing product in to catch any loose liquid before it has a chance to get onto the paint.

    Definitely force drying and blasting the liquid over the irregular shapes on so many tire sidewalls work faster and better. I put 4-5 coats on my truck tires and due to the size of the sidewalls this was the method I found to get the job done faster.

    Here's another tip....

    When blowing any wet coating, blow away from the wheel, not towards it. I've had dried coating on my hands before and it doesn't wash off. Had to scrape it off. So blow away or outward from the wheel, not towards the wheel.

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  8. #28
    Senior Member jwgreen6's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    I noticed you use multiple steps between washing, claying and using Iron-X. Have you tried using CarPro's Snow Soap with a Nanoskin AutoScrub Wash Mitt at the same time? Would that cut time and end up with the same/similar results vs. washing, claying and Iron-X(ing)?

  9. #29
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    He great questions and I'm glad you asked them as it gives me an opportunity to clear up any confusion.


    Quote Originally Posted by jwgreen6 View Post

    I noticed you use multiple steps between washing, claying and using Iron-X.
    Technically we didn't clay the Avalanche. We used the Nanoskin Autoscrub Mitt. Not sure what to call it and add the ing to the end of the word like clay and claying but just so any lurkers that don't read but only scan are not confused I wanted to point this out.


    Quote Originally Posted by jwgreen6 View Post

    Have you tried using CarPro's Snow Soap with a Nanoskin AutoScrub Wash Mitt at the same time?


    Would that cut time and end up with the same/similar results vs. washing, claying and Iron-X(ing)?

    That can sound like a great idea on paper but here's the deal and I think I have an article on this same topic somewhere on this forum.


    The goal is to get the car clean as possible and at the same time
    1. Chemically decontaminate the paint.
    2. Mechanically decontaminate the paint.


    Chemically decontaminating the paint is an optional step. If it's your own car and you're own money then go for it. If you're detailing for money then you need to build the price of the Iron X into each wash job or you'll lose money. Remember there are places that will wash your car for $10.00 so keep that in mind when considering your competition. You can build the cost of Iron X into your price but you have to educate the customer because they'll want to know why you charge more to simply wash a car?


    Next... the reason for the extra step of washing and re-foaming and then using the Nanoskin Mitt is because...

    The polymerized rubber side of the Nanoskin mitt is sold (but flexible) and if you don't wash the vehicle first and RINSE OFF THE LOOSENED DIRT then you'll rub that dirt between the rubbery side of the Nanoskin Mitt against the paint and this is where you risk putting swirls and scratches into the paint.

    If the car is really dirty, this could mean a lot of swirls and scratches and possibly even deep swirls and scratches depending upon the type of dirt on the car.


    Make sense?


    Your idea of trying to save time is a great idea and for a car that DOESN'T have any visible dirt or abrasive particles on it you might be able to get away with this approach but I wouldn't use it on my own vehicles and I certainly wouldn't teach this approach in Autogeek's 3-day Detailing Boot Camp Class.

    You still save a step or two with this approach plus you have both the chemical and mechanical decontamination over with during the wet washing step.

    And in my experience, the Nanoskin products remove more above surface bonded contaminants than clay and do it faster.


    Make sense?


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  10. #30
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!

    Quote Originally Posted by High Caliber View Post

    I was so impressed with the Solutions Finish plastic restore, that I purchased a bottle.

    What are you going to use it on?


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