To use heavy duty clay!?

[wrx495]

Hey guys so I am curious .. Idk if this is rail dust or from the tree ( could most likely be because the car is always under the tree ) but I wanted to know if I should use heavy duty clay to remove it ? I have used iron x but it hasn't even removed it all [IMG][/IMG]
Thanks for your guys help in advance !

[lawrenceSA]

Did your initial application of Iron-x remove any of it? If so, it would imply that some of what was on the paint was iron.

I would test another small spot with iron-x to see if you still see the 'bleeding effect' - if you do, it would mean there is still iron particles to be removed.

If not, it would mean the Iron-x has removed all of the iron contaminants, in which case, claying the remaining contaminants off would make the most sense.

[wrx495]

Thanks for the reply ! I did iron x and no more bleeding happening ! and I have the light duty pinnacle clay so I was wondering if I should govstrsoghthvto heavy duty or use medium ? Thanks !

[lawrenceSA]

In respect of whether to use fine or medium grade clay, only a 'test spot' will tell.

The golden rule, as it were, is to ALWAYS use the least aggressive 'tool/product' to get the job done.

So if it were me, I would start with the fine grade and see the sort of results you are getting and how long it is taking you. If the results are acceptable, you can proceed with the fine grade clay, which should be less prone to marring the paint.

At this point, I would inspect any possible marring and ensure I could remove this, before continuing on the whole car.

If however you are getting nowhere slowly, stepping up to the heavy duty grade may make the claying much quicker, but at the expense of an increased likelihood for marring. Again, check you can remove the marring adequately before doing the whole car.

Do you intend polishing after decontaminating?

[KMdef9]

Use lots of clay lube when using the heavy duty clay. Id also reccomend doing smaller sections as well. If you are going to polish after, you could stick to larger sections.

[oldmodman]

I had a car with so much rail dust embedded in the paint it took a three part job.

After a wash the car was clayed. Then washed again with Iron-x, then a final clay. And it did take all three to get rid of the last of the red specks.

I tried a second wash with Iron-x and it didn't get any more iron out. it took that final clay with ClayMagic's red aggressive clay to remove the final specks. Don't know why

[WaxmanRonnie]

Iron X will take it out.

[wrx495]

In respect of whether to use fine or medium grade clay, only a 'test spot' will tell.

The golden rule, as it were, is to ALWAYS use the least aggressive 'tool/product' to get the job done.

So if it were me, I would start with the fine grade and see the sort of results you are getting and how long it is taking you. If the results are acceptable, you can proceed with the fine grade clay, which should be less prone to marring the paint.

At this point, I would inspect any possible marring and ensure I could remove this, before continuing on the whole car.

If however you are getting nowhere slowly, stepping up to the heavy duty grade may make the claying much quicker, but at the expense of an increased likelihood for marring. Again, check you can remove the marring adequately before doing the whole car.

Do you intend polishing after decontaminating?

awesome! thanks ! yeah i used the fine grade clay and it removed everything very slowly with little to no difference! i think i may bump it up to heavy duty and then polish after with 105/205

Use lots of clay lube when using the heavy duty clay. Id also reccomend doing smaller sections as well. If you are going to polish after, you could stick to larger sections.

awesome! alright ! thanks! ill do small sections and polish after!

I had a car with so much rail dust embedded in the paint it took a three part job.

After a wash the car was clayed. Then washed again with Iron-x, then a final clay. And it did take all three to get rid of the last of the red specks.

I tried a second wash with Iron-x and it didn't get any more iron out. it took that final clay with ClayMagic's red aggressive clay to remove the final specks. Don't know why

that's my situation! i'm just trying to get this remaining bit out! looks like i'll need to do aggressive or heavy duty clay

Iron X will take it out.

thanks! already tried and got all the iron removed! just need to clay and then polish this off

[C230SS]

You mentioned that the car has been parked under a tree. Have you tried any of the bug and tar removers that are on the market? In a pinch, you can use a hand sanitizer like Purell or even WD40.

There are several posts in this forum on the various products that can be used to remove tree sap.

I have a white car that was covered with orange colored tree sap from a Bald Cypress. The car was not parked under the tree. But it was windy that day and the sap was blown onto hood windshield and driver's side of the car.

Various soaps and spray detailers had no effect on the sap. I used Purell and a razor on the windshield and other glass. I had to be careful about what I used on the hood since I have a clear paint protection film on the nose of the car. Some of the bug and tar removers on the market with leave a haze on clear plastics. Getting tree sap off of the protection film was very difficult. I finally resorted to using a WD40 pen. Afterwards, I washed the car several times and applied a few coats of wax. In total, I've probably spent over 4 hours in removing the tree wax.

[trashmanssd]

What I would say you have there is nice mix of Caterpillar poop (pic 1) and Shotgun Fungus (pics 2 and 3). The poop washes off easy but leaves the uneven staining the Fungus shots out the spores that are round and hard as hell and stick like glue. The fungus grows on mulch. So probably picking up both parked under a tree near mulch (stuff can fly 20-30 feet is within range).