1Z Glans Wax

[detailgod]

Originally Posted by Al-53

Glanz is a synthetic wax..no real carnauba in it...so you could call it a sealant in a way..but with a waxed look...its a very watery product...like Klasse ....

you can top another sealant with it or just use it straight from the can....or even top with a wax if you desired..

AL

if you read the description is says it is a combo of nuba and synthetic polymers. it this not true?

[Al-53]

Originally Posted by detailgod

if you read the description is says it is a combo of nuba and synthetic polymers. it this not true?

Ok...looking at my can it does say its the new improved with wax....now the older version was fully synthetic...as far as I remember...sorry for the mis info..I was going by the older version...

here is from a vendor selling the older version....description..

Top off your just-polished finish with Glanz Wax for long-lasting durable protection and added gloss and depth. Glanz Wax, a full synthetic wax formulation, is designed for long term protection.

even the can is a bit different..no new version on it....like the one I have..hope it works the same as the one I have now....



AL

[detailgod]

Originally Posted by Al-53

Ok...looking at my can it does say its the new improved with wax....now the older version was fully synthetic...as far as I remember...sorry for the mis info..I was going by the older version...

here is from a vendor selling the older version....description..

Top off your just-polished finish with Glanz Wax for long-lasting durable protection and added gloss and depth. Glanz Wax, a full synthetic wax formulation, is designed for long term protection.

even the can is a bit different..no new version on it....like the one I have..hope it works the same as the one I have now....



AL

thats cool. i thought maybe i was misreading or misunderstanding what i was reading. been doing that alot lately. lol

[Z06-Goose]

Originally Posted by David Fermani

I've also applied alot of LSP's (including 1Z) by machine (PC). Do you think a product that is thin/watery might spread better? If so, wouldn't this be a plus in a rotary application because the pad gets saturated easier and like you said, you'll just need to reapply it in smaller doses once this occurs.

I was ready to use 1Z Glanz Wax with my PC, ans when I saw it was too watery, I backed out, and used a foam applicator instead, so perhaps I'm wrong in my assessment of being a waste of product by machine without having actually given it a try on the PC
I will try using my PC next time to see how it works. I'm sure it will spread better once the pad is nice a primed with the 1Z...

[detailgod]

this is the version i have. there is no new or improve on it so i am guessing it is the old version.

[David Fermani]

Originally Posted by Z06-Goose

I was ready to use 1Z Glanz Wax with my PC, ans when I saw it was too watery, I backed out, and used a foam applicator instead, so perhaps I'm wrong in my assessment of being a waste of product by machine without having actually given it a try on the PC
I will try using my PC next time to see how it works. I'm sure it will spread better once the pad is nice a primed with the 1Z...

Just for the sake of healthy conversation only: What's the difference in absorbancy between a foam applicator & a foam DA pad? It seems like (based on my experience) you'd get more mileage from liquid LSPs by applying them via a PC, then you would by hand. I can put 3-4 drops and do a complete side of a large vehicle by PC, but struggle to do 2-3 panels by hand. If this were the case, I'd think less product would be used. Let me know what you think....

You're right; priming is key.

[Z06-Goose]

Originally Posted by David Fermani

Just for the sake of healthy conversation only: What's the difference in absorbancy between a foam applicator & a foam DA pad? It seems like (based on my experience) you'd get more mileage from liquid LSPs by applying them via a PC, then you would by hand. I can put 3-4 drops and do a complete side of a large vehicle by PC, but struggle to do 2-3 panels by hand. If this were the case, I'd think less product would be used. Let me know what you think....

You're right; priming is key.

I agree.
I haven't tried 1Z via PC yet as I mentioned earlier, but I too use my PC for wax, and sealant applications, it just happened that with the 1Z I thought it wouldn't work. I'm looking forward to give it a shot with my PC next time...

[D&D Auto Detailing]

Originally Posted by David Fermani

How will you create holograms if you use a pad that has no cut and a product that has no abrasives? As long as the pad is primed, you use low speed and don't overwork the product(dust), I can't see a problem occuring. How would the abrasion be created?

Go give it a shot then.