Iron Removers?

[Supergus1]

Has anyone done a comparison between Optimum FerreX, Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller, and Iron X? They are all pretty comparable in price but "there can be only one".

[SYMAWD]

I haven't tried the 1st two that you mentioned, but I have compared Iron X to a few others and have found it to be excellent along with one other.

4 Color Changing Wheel Cleaners go Head to Head

[FUNX650]

Meguiar's "Dub" color-changing product has a
more favorable price tag than those you listed.


Bob

[Supergus1]

Meguiar's "Dub" color-changing product has a
more favorable price tag than those you listed.


Bob

Bob,
Isn't the color changing product a wheel cleaner? Not sure if it's paint safe?

[FUNX650]

Bob,
Isn't the color changing product a wheel cleaner?
Not sure if it's paint safe?

•Knowng that Meguiar's makes this product for the
Joe Lunch Bucket Consumer market;
-Then...therefore:
This DUB product's advertisement/usage would be
geared toward that specific Consumer market base.

Just a thought:
-Aren't many wheels clear-coated?
-Isn't clear-coat classified as a paint?


FWIW:
IronX, for example, is also used to "clean" wheels.


Bob

[Mask]

^ +1

[SYMAWD]

•Knowng that Meguiar's makes this product for the
Joe Lunch Bucket Consumer market;
-Then...therefore:
This DUB product's advertisement/usage would be
geared toward that specific Consumer market base.

Just a thought:
-Aren't many wheels clear-coated?
-Isn't clear-coat classified as a paint?


FWIW:
IronX, for example, is also used to "clean" wheels.


Bob

Yes, but not all wheel cleaners are great paint cleaners. For example, Sonax Full Effect does a rather bad job on paint while it works well on wheels. Who is to say that Dub Wheel Cleaner will perform well on paint?

[VISITOR]

when in doubt, the one that has a proven track record would be iron-x. all the carpro products i've used have been top notch...

[PiPUK]

In theory, all these bleeding iron removers are based around a single active ingredient. Unfortunately, it is not as simple as that. IX is the original and basically that is THE active it uses. Others have come along and used lower levels (it is extremely expensive!) and tried to bluff people. Others still have gone with using lower levels and trying to compensate with other actives which do a similar job, without the bleed, but are massively cheaper.

One thing that I think is worth noting is that our regulatory interpretation is that IX is as strong as you can reasonably make such a product, without putting yourself into a position where the product should really have a 'toxic' hazard associated with it.

My recollection from data sheets is that the megs and sonax products simply are not as concentrated as IX.

[lawrenceSA]

In theory, all these bleeding iron removers are based around a single active ingredient. Unfortunately, it is not as simple as that. IX is the original and basically that is THE active it uses. Others have come along and used lower levels (it is extremely expensive!) and tried to bluff people. Others still have gone with using lower levels and trying to compensate with other actives which do a similar job, without the bleed, but are massively cheaper.

One thing that I think is worth noting is that our regulatory interpretation is that IX is as strong as you can reasonably make such a product, without putting yourself into a position where the product should really have a 'toxic' hazard associated with it.

My recollection from data sheets is that the megs and sonax products simply are not as concentrated as IX.

PiPUK, please may I tap into your chemical knowledge for a second.... is the ingredient that actually 'dissolves' the iron, the same ingredient that makes it change purple/red (or is this another ingredient all together, and if so, does it in any way alter the efficacy of the product).

The reason I ask is I was given a sample of an unknown (to me) iron remover to test. I sprayed half a wheel with AF Iron Out and the other half with this sample. The sample side had almost no bleeding whereas the AF product obviously did bleed.

Then I rinsed and resprayed the entire wheel with AF Iron out and both sides then bled equally, leading me to believe that although the sample iron remover never actually showed any signs of 'bleeding', it still removed the same amount of iron as the AF Iron out.

Personally I like the visual indicator that the color changing ingredient has, as it let's you know how much contamination is left on the surface but am curious as to how it all works.

Thanks in advance and apologies to the OP for the thread hijack