I'm a little intimidated about using my 3401

[MarkD51]

But the paint is still salvageable, correct?

Soitenly!

While I'm no expert with a digital Camera, and white is often a hard paint to showcase, especially under bright daylight conditions, but this paint is entirely 100% original from the factory.

Being a 1997, and the truck was purchased new by me oct '96, this makes this truck and it's paint very close to 19 years old. Attachment 38774

Attachment 38775

[DasBurninator]

Where exactly are you in Colorado? If you're in the Denver area I would be happy to come give you a lesson to help you out.

[cardaddy]

I would go to youtube if you haven't already, and search "Mike Phillips flex 3401", and watch his 29 minute demonstration. It's awesome, and I still watch it at least once a week. He has another demonstration from a detail fest event about using it for production detailing, which is also extremely informative, and a much watch for anyone new to the Flex 3401.

THIS

Or placed any protectants on the paint in a year?

Being in CO, perhaps vehicles there take less a beating (UV) than here in the desert southwest, but get hammered in other ways, like snow, and nasties on the road like sand-salt?

In any case, time does take it's toll.

I see many people today that falsely believe because the paint looks shiny (From the Clear Coat) that all is good, and that protectants don't need to be used, or used as much. And seen quite a few vehicles around the same age as yours on the verge of clear coat failure, or already has clear coat degradation, with peeling, oxidized paint turning white.

It took a good 16 or so years before I took a DA and Polishes to my own Tahoe SUV, but you can trust in those 16 years I applied more waxes, and sealants than the factory paintjob on it probably cost.

The paint on my SUV was always highly maintained, but I will say the paint looks better today by far than it did 6-8 years ago.

There's countless tutorial videos out there on the web, both by Mike Phillips, and others.
One doesn't necessarily have to watch a specific Flex 3401 Vid to learn and understand the basics of detailing, and polishing, but it does certainly help to get to know your specific machine, and to get the best abilities from it.

Nothing wrong with starting out with fine polishes, and it is often better to do less, than do too much. Learn the process of doing a test spot with 2-3 products on a panel section. See what works best, in both quality of finish, ease of work, and then simply repeat the process over the rest of the vehicle.

I'm with the post that wonders how you've managed to buy a new 3401 and never use it.

I can't imagine being able to hurt the paint with your selection of pads and polishes. Also can't imagine where it wouldn't look better after spending a quality day or TWO buffing it out.

I'd think you would probably need something more aggressive, truth be told.

Sounds like you're thinking about buying another buffing product, maybe WGTSR perhaps? Being as you have Menz products, I'd really not be afraid of picking up a bottle of SI-1500, or even FG-400. I've seen cars, even with soft paint done with 1500 or 2000 start to finish (2000 finishes better). I've also done more than I'd ever have thought possible with FG-400. It is mind boggling how well it finishes to actually cut like it does!

One way to really help the heavier cut Menz stuff work, without doing a full 2-step process is to start with one pad, (say an orange or white), work the product through half it's cycle (a good 4~5 section passes), then switch to a lighter cut pad, (like white, blue or black) and finish it down with another 4~5 passes. Just make sure the second pad isn't dry going in, AND isn't loaded with wet, virgin compound.

Of course that means first you need to prime both pads and WORK the product down in each pad completely through it's cycle. Once they are both primes, worked, cleaned on the fly, and ready to go back to the paint again it's pretty easy.

Take a look at this.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...test-spot.html

What you can find when doing your test spot is what will get you there, without going to far. For instance... tape off he hood into 6 sections, then do only 5 passes per section, followed by a complete wipe down.

Section 1:
orange pad, machine speed 4, arm pressure medium, arm speed slow - compound IP-2000

Section 2:
orange pad, machine speed 4, arm pressure medium, arm speed slow - compound SF-3500

The only difference would be the compound. Could be section 2 is close enough, or it may be section 1. All this depends on whether or not of course you want to do a single step buff or a multi-step correction.

Then move on to sections 3 & 4 where you use a white pad with your two compounds.

Now your only difference is the two pads.

Not saying that 5 section passes is enough to finish down the product, but it's enough to tell you where you're going go end up at. Some Menzerna products can go 9~10 passes depending on cut, and pad. I'd go 8 for sure though.

Once you get the test spot looking like you want it, THEN you can hit it with your final polishing step. If that happens to be working it with a single product like FG-400, IP-2000 or all the way to FF-4500 it just means you'll finish that section, with the pad you need to get it where you want it. From there... it's just repeat the process on every 24" square section you have.

You could literally work all day figuring out Menzerna products to the nth degree. Considering we (did) have 400, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 4500.

Now we add 300, 2400, 3500 and 3800 to all that!

I put the (old) Menzerna list below just for reference. Although... it doesn't have the new 300, 2400, 3500 and 3800.




Here's one that has the new products.

Although... you'll notice that MANY of the old products are missing there now.

From looking at Menzerna USA, they now go by the below products only. Which are 300, 400, 1000, 2200, 2500, 3000, and 3500. AS WELL AS 3-in-1 One Step.

I really like FF-4000 though, and hope it doesn't go by the wayside. I also like 2000 MUCH better than 1500. It'd be hard to find a situation where 400, 2000 and 4000 couldn't get the job done.

[JSFM35x]

Go rent a car for 35 bucks and get over it.

[MarkD51]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn_kVH3BVc

This video pretty much sums up all the basics of the use of the Flex 3401VRG.

I'm sure most of us members here have seen it, so you can bypass the vid if you've seen it, it's of our forum master guru Mike P. doing what he loves.

Or maybe don't bypass it. Because it's never a bad idea to renew one's skills, faith, ambitions, and to nail down basic applications, uses, and mastery.

I watch Vids like this from time to time. It helps me focus, to better understand what you are trying to accomplish. to better learn and progress with the use of tools, and products.

You have to closely study what Mike does. You can watch this Video 4 dozen times (like I have) And you'll notice something you haven't before.

Arm speed, passes, machine speed, and all the other qualities that make a master detailer what he/she is.

[BuffaloBill]

I'm ready. Once I'm back from vacation and get my packages I'll be ready to tackle this baby. Thank you for everyone's input. I'll be doing my truck, g/f's car, mother's SUV and my motorcycle. The fuel tank on the motorcycle needs the most correction. Once that's all polished up I'm installing a tank pad I started a thread a long time ago about that but I will definitely have before and after photos of each. And yes I've watched the video many times and will continue to.

[BuffaloBill]

I've also studied those charts. I was worried that even 2500 grit would be too much but from everyone's responses I'm guessing not.

[dlc95]

Here's the other one with Mike Phillips.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XccGUiUKn8o

[Mike Phillips]

Here's a tip... and I share this in my three auto detailing books and I might even recommend this in my boat detailing book...


If this is your first time just buff out the hood.

From start to finish it will take you a few hours.

1. Washing and drying
2. Compounding plus wipe-off
3. Polishing plus wipe-off
4. Waxing plus wipe-off

Here's what you'll accomplish by only tackling a single panel.

You'll see an AMAZING transformation.

You won't be totally worn out. (you will be if you do the above 4 steps to the entire vehicle)

If you start in the morning you'll still have the rest of the afternoon and evening to pay attention to the wife.

Your muscles won't be sore.

It won't be a chore but fun.

You'll get the hang of using the Flex 3401 plus the hang of how the process goes and now you'll know what to expect when you go to tackle the rest of the vehicle.

Win/Win/Win