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01-13-2012, 08:47 PM
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#1 | | Guest | DP high performance glass restorer problems
ok so i graciously got sent a 3oz bottle of this product from rwright(awesome guy btw) and i tried using it on my rear window to get rid of some minor wiper haze, i did 3 rings of product around the microfiber pad i was using and used my rotary, now it looks like i used some rocks in a bottle compound on a wool pad to some soft black paint....really looks bad see holograms way deeper defects then i was trying to remove are now there. i tried lighter pressure, less product, more product,slower speed, higher speed, misted with QD spray to extend working time and add some lubricity. and still the same thing and looks horrible. i can see a clear definitive tape line where i marked off half the rear windshield as i was going to do a review and lost all motivation after i seen what the glass looked like in the sun. i just want to know what i could have done wrong and what can be done to fix it..im thinking ill need to order some ceri-glass as i know nobody has had issues with that one. maybe my glass is different from the type the product was designed for i haven't a clue in the world...maybe nick or someone who has first hand experience using this product on all different types of vehicles can chime in. just sucks when my glass wasn't all that bad now it is...still am glad it was my vehicle and not a customers vehicle or my front windshield....
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01-13-2012, 09:02 PM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 4,290
| Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
I'm not having the same issues, but what I noticed it I can now see ALOT of pin hole chips in the glass as well as "swirls" or should I say fine wiper drag marks in the glass. Maybe its because I'm paying more attention to it now because I've used the product but I see more defects in the glass and it pisses me off. I wish I payed more attention to it BEFORE I polished with the glass restorer. I used a white ccs pad and bumped up the speed. I was thinking about hitting it again, possibly with a tangerine hydrotech pad. It has improved the staining/streaking issue I had before, but it hasn't completely removed the staining. I was thinking about getting the ceri stuff but I'm alittle nervous since it has to be applied with a rotary.
I'm sorry this is happening to you Matt...looks like where both in glass he!!
__________________ Alex ...."Do the right thing...even when no one is looking" |
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01-13-2012, 10:06 PM
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#3 | | Guest | Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
all glass polishes work better applied by rotary, of course you can use them with a DA but you will need to work it longer or it wont remove as much defects. but for light duty stuff it should work, maybe ill retry this again tomorrow and use a foam pad see how it works out.maybe the microfiber pad is holding in too much of the cerium oxide and its just collecting making it stronger when i add more product/water spray...ill try to get some pics of how it looks before hand also, tried earlier but didnt work well maybe if i take the pics from inside the hatch it will work better.
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01-13-2012, 10:27 PM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 4,290
| Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
Are you applying it via rotary or da? Yeah switch to a foam pad and see how that works.
__________________ Alex ...."Do the right thing...even when no one is looking" |
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01-13-2012, 10:37 PM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Va Bch, Va
Posts: 859
| Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
If you are using a cutting MF pad that is probably part of the problem. Also, you don't need to add more product when working a section, but misting with water will help. You should try a foam cutting pad on a DA and work the glass restorer until you aren't seeing any improvement before adding more product or up the pad cut.
I used the DP HPGR and got great results. I didn't, however, use a rotary. I used my PC7424 and an orange LC pad, then moved to a yellow pad and even better results as far as major water spots and minor scratches being removed. I did my windshield after good results on my back glass, and the deeper defects became much more visible to me as well. It's the same as removing swirls/defects from paint, then you notice dings and deeper scratches.
I haven't tried using my rotary with DP HPGR, but think doing so would require misting with water quite often. Using the DA I didn't have issues with the product drying too soon. I think the foam pad helps with holding the moisture as well; compared to MF.
Remember, you should always start low on the aggressive scale. |
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01-13-2012, 10:42 PM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 4,290
| Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
Thanks for the input Shaun...so misting with water makes a difference? I would have never known.
__________________ Alex ...."Do the right thing...even when no one is looking" |
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01-13-2012, 11:01 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Va Bch, Va
Posts: 859
| Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
It's like using misting a pad to keep a compound working longer when you know it dried before it was worked all the way. In Corey's review of Ceriglass IIRC he talks about misting. Misting with anything other than water, especially QD, can act like a lubricant and not actually let you cut the defects out, or the swirls/haze you create in your first passes. The water is meant to keep the product workable, not lube anything. You want it to cut. Like I said though, with DP HPGR I didn't really need to mist while working the product as I conditioned the pad and primed it, and was working with a DA so there wasn't the heat that the rotary will create.
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01-14-2012, 12:57 AM
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#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Central Coast, CA
Posts: 476
| Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
If there were some embedded contaminants remaining that were harder than glass, they could have added deeper defects when they became part of the slurry. Decontamination of the glass is probably key, prior to defect removal. I'm thinking vinegar, or better yet, ironX, glass cleaner, clay, mild cleaner/polish, glass cleaner, then use the hard stuff. I don't speak from experience, so maybe these pre-cleaning steps aren't necessary. IMHO, if it's hard enough to get embedded in glass, it's going to cut the glass when it's loosened.
__________________ ...Rick Team Flex 3401 / PE14-2 150 Time to show black paint who's boss.
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01-14-2012, 01:15 AM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Florida
Posts: 8,813
| Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
Opie, I believe you are dealing with tempered glass which is different than that used for the windshield. Let me grab some info from my ceriglass review I posted. Brb
Sorry ope, typing with one hand on iPad and dead tired so not copying it but it's on my reply to bob in post 36 of my ceriglass review here Talking about tempered glass. Review: CarPro CeriGlass |
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01-14-2012, 06:07 AM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Southeast, MA
Posts: 12,171
| Re: DP high performance glass restorer problems
Matt,
I actually found that I'm able to achieve great results using the DP Glass Product with my Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher.
The Porter Cable polisher mounted with a White flat foam pad and speed 4 seem to do a very nice job. It does naturally take longer and my arm speed is slow compares to paint correction.
Once I'm satisfied, I clean the entire glass with Meguiar's Glass Cleaner, dry thoroughly, then coat with Aquapel...
__________________ BobbyG - 2004 Millennium Yellow Z06 Corvette |
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