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  1. #1
    Super Member alko's Avatar
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    Rotary Technique

    So I sent Mike P a message in regards to this but haven't heard back from him yet, so I'll post it here...

    I haven't seen any discussion on this, but I wanted to know if there was a specific reason why people use different "section passes" techniques with a DA versus a rotary. I know how to make a section pass with a DA (left to right, up and down). But how about a rotary? I've only seen people go left to right with a rotary. Is it not necessary that you follow the same technique with a DA? When I used my Flex PE14-2 I only used the same technique as I've seen others do with a rotary, and that is to go left to right. I've only seen one video where someone was following the DA section pass technique with a rotary. Is it just a matter of preference?

    -Alex
    Alex
    ...."Do the right thing...even when no one is looking"

  2. #2
    Super Member Kaleb G.'s Avatar
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    I don't have a ton of experience with a rotary but it usually seems like more of a challenge to make the up and down passes. Left to right you can really make the machine do all of the work. Like I said though, I don't have as much experience with them as most people here do.

  3. #3
    Super Member alko's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary Technique

    hhmm...you know what...I didn't even think about it with the forced rotation.
    Alex
    ...."Do the right thing...even when no one is looking"

  4. #4
    Super Member RoadRageDetail's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary Technique

    Checkerboard pattern is best practice with all machines to ensure uniform working time.

  5. #5
    Super Member statusdetailing's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary Technique

    I agree. I use the same checkerboard pattern on a rotary and DA.

  6. #6
    Super Member AutowerxDetailing's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary Technique

    IDK if this is correct technique but I just used a rotary for the first time tonight and found that slightly turning my wrist (on my trigger arm) to the left or right let me steer the machine forwards or backwards and left to right. It was much different from a DA where it just sort of jiggles wherever you want it to go. Once I got the hang of it I was able to do checkerboard section passes just like with my PCXP.

    Although, I noticed my left to right movements on the rotary were slightly arced instead of straight across like when using a DA. It just felt more normal to let it curve a little bit instead of fighting to keep it going in perfectly straight lines.
    Nicholas Scafidi - CQuartz Finest Authorized Installer
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  7. #7
    Super Member RoadRageDetail's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary Technique

    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas@Autowerx View Post
    Although, I noticed my left to right movements on the rotary were slightly arced instead of straight across like when using a DA. It just felt more normal to let it curve a little bit instead of fighting to keep it going in perfectly straight lines.
    You know you're comfortable with a rotary when you can lock the trigger and steer by one finger on the end of the handle by the cord.

    The arced movement is caused by the forced rotation and its tendency to try and move in a circle. Won't cause you any problems unless it gets out of hand. My old mentor used to tell me "if your arms are tired, try using the buffer, instead of letting the buffer use you."

    After a while it made sense

  8. #8
    Super Member alko's Avatar
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    Re: Rotary Technique

    Thanks for the responses guys...I appreciate it. I felt kinda dumb asking this question, but I realize there are no dumb questions.
    Alex
    ...."Do the right thing...even when no one is looking"

  9. #9
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Rotary Technique

    Quote Originally Posted by alko View Post

    So I sent Mike P a message in regards to this but haven't heard back from him yet,

    -Alex

    I was offline since last Wednesday for some vacation time. I returned to work yesterday and spend most of the day editing YouTube videos and creating threads for them, it's all very time consuming.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alko View Post
    I haven't seen any discussion on this, but I wanted to know if there was a specific reason why people use different "section passes" techniques with a DA versus a rotary.
    I don't know that they do?

    I buff out sections at a time when using a rotary buffer but because of the POWER of a rotary buffer tackle larger sections if the panel is large.

    The reason to use overlapping passes in at least two different directions is for an acronym called, UMR, which stands for

    Uniform Material Removal

    And the reason you want uniform material removal is for,

    • Uniform Defect Removal
    • Uniform Appearance


    Quote Originally Posted by alko View Post


    I know how to make a section pass with a DA (left to right, up and down). But how about a rotary? I've only seen people go left to right with a rotary. Is it not necessary that you follow the same technique with a DA?
    There's now "Laws" that state anyone has to move a buffer over the paint in a specific pattern but just going in one direction for ALL the passes can lead to carving ruts into the paint. On older single stage paints, especially metallics, this would show up as what are called,

    Tiger Stripes


    [quote=alko;697881]

    When I used my Flex PE14-2 I only used the same technique as I've seen others do with a rotary, and that is to go left to right. I've only seen one video where someone was following the DA section pass technique with a rotary. Is it just a matter of preference?

    Yes.

    But more important is to do something I call the Yoda Technique and that is to,

    Let the panel be your guide


    Here's what I wrote in this thread,

    Alternating Horizontal/Vertical Section Passes?


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips


    Second, because some panels are not large and flat, especially on modern cars which are aerodynamic and for this reason very curved, then you use what I call the Yoda Technique, that is you,


    "Let the panel be your guide"


    (When you read the above sentence, use your best Yoda impersonation)


    So of course, if you're working a long, thin panel then you might best work that panel by only going in one direction and doing your best to overlap your passes.

    So sometimes because of the shape of the panel, for example a long thin panel, you can only go in two directions, that is side to side or front to back depending upon how you have to stand to buff the panel.

    Therefore you have to let the panel be your guide.



    Now follow me on this...

    While you should finish your last passes on a panel using a predetermined direction, for the INITIAL cuts or "passes" you want to use some type of multi-directional series of passes to ensure uniform material removal. You can accomplish this going in just a singular direction but it requires more focus and experience.




  10. #10
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: Rotary Technique

    Here's an example of buffing in only a side to side direction as I was buffing on the top of a rear bumper cover on a Scion... not I only move the rotary buffer back and forth but that's because the panel is thin...


    Look for the portion where I'm doing surgical buffing, that is with a 3" foam buffing pad and an extension...

    Lake Country Buffing Pads Commercial







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