I should probably know this...

[TeddyKGB]

Sorry but I've always wondered a few things.

Are polish and compound the same thing or are they used for different purposes?

I've also never completely understood the whole glaze vs sealant vs wax and which of those can/should be mixed.

I've been claying followed by XMT360 and either Poorboys Natty or Pinnacle SSII (obviously both waxes). It has always looked great but I am wondering if I am missing out by not taking the time to do glazes, sealants (or even polish).

TIA

[Rsurfer]

Originally Posted by TeddyKGB

Sorry but I've always wondered a few things.

Are polish and compound the same thing or are they used for different purposes?

I've also never completely understood the whole glaze vs sealant vs wax and which of those can/should be mixed.

I've been claying followed by XMT360 and either Poorboys Natty or Pinnacle SSII (obviously both waxes). It has always looked great but I am wondering if I am missing out by not taking the time to do glazes, sealants (or even polish).

TIA

Polishing is IMO is 95% of what the final finish will look like. You can use a $2,000 wax and you wont get the results that a finely polished paint using Turtle Wax will get. Prep like painting your house is the key. Spend time searching for polishing, jeweling, burnishing, etc.

[TeddyKGB]

Originally Posted by Rsurfer

Polishing is IMO is 95% of what the final finish will look like. You can use a $2,000 wax and you wont get the results that a finely polished paint using Turtle Wax will get. Prep like painting your house is the key. Spend time searching for polishing, jeweling, burnishing, etc.

I actually did search but searching for the word polishing, glaze, or wax will bring up just about every thread here. LOL

What I was actually looking for was a glossary for beginers, something like this

clay -first step after a good wash. used to remove surface impurities stuck to the clear coat.

compound - used after clay. used to remove deeper imbedded dirt and surface scratches

polish - blah blah blah

I understand what polish does but how is it different than a compound or is it?

And what is a glaze good for vs a sealant, when do you use one vs the other and can you combine it with a wax? I basically haven't grasped the whole concept of a glaze or a sealant.

[Rsurfer]

Originally Posted by TeddyKGB

I actually did search but searching for the word polishing, glaze, or wax will bring up just about every thread here. LOL

What I was actually looking for was a glossary for beginers, something like this



I understand what polish does but how is it different than a compound or is it?

And what is a glaze good for vs a sealant, when do you use one vs the other and can you combine it with a wax? I basically haven't grasped the whole concept of a glaze or a sealant.

Here are the most accepted steps:
Wash
Clay
Polish
Seal
Wax
The difference between compounding and polishing is the same, except compounds are more aggressive and will need finishing off by polishing. IMO glazing is not a necessary step, although some glazes will give you that extra pop. A glaze is not very durable and will only last a couple of washing. Your LSP (last step product or procedure)can be either sealant and then wax or sealant alone or wax alone. You should not put a sealant over wax because of bonding issues.

[TOGWT]

Polish, Wax, Glaze and Polymer Differences:

· Polish (Compound) are formulated to break down as they are used, gradually reducing in size, usually with levels of abrasives to remove oxidation, swirl marks and minor surface scratches, always finish with the least abrasive machine polish and `back-down' from one grade to the next.Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to the more abrasive products.

· Polish ( used to provide a high gloss)-usually formulated with ultra-fine abrasives and oils for lubrication, with varying grades of abrasion, they break down as they are used, gradually reducing in size and burnishing the surface to produce a highly reflective gloss, if applying a polymer after polishing you’ll need to remove any surface oils with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA).

· Polymer Sealant- (provides durable protection)-A non-organic based wax formulated from polymers used to seal paint with a thin hard barrier. They are very durable and provide a very bright, but flat silvery shine. This type of product is a compromise as it does provide durability but lacks the properties of a Carnauba wax lacking both colour and depth, and because of a polymer's inherent Covalent (molecular) structure it cannot mimic the properties of a Carnauba wax.. Polymers used in sealants need a painted surface to catatonically bond to; they don't do well when asked to bond to metal to provide protection. A clear coat (paint) has by nature, porosity, they bond very well and provide the intended protection

· Glaze- (purely an aesthetic product ) that provides gloss but very little protection; it's often referred to as Show Glaze, made from an emulsion formulated from water, polymers and glycerine oil, solvent, abrasives (to remove very minor swirls) Kaolin clay fillers (or similar ) that hide small paint surface scratches, abrasions and swirl marks, surfactant, colouring and fragrance. Its filling abilities usually wear off in a matter of days before the surface abrasions become visible again, washing the paint film surface will accelerate this process

· Carnauba Wax- (provides a sacrificial but renewable protection)-A natural wax repellent, it forms a barrier that is a natural protection from acid rain, airborne pollutants and acidic bird droppings, it provides Colour, Depth and Clarity that is without equal, but lacks durability. An ideal Carnauba wax should wipe on and the residue should be wet when removed to avoid surface marring, it should provide clarity (transparency) should be able to be ‘layered’ without becoming opaque and should include additional oils, which ‘wet’ the paint surface to give the paint finish depth and a rippled liquidity (this is caused by the wax ‘egg crate’ shape distorting the reflected light

· Fracture/evaporation temperatures - Polymers 350oF + dependant upon type of polymer , Acrylic sealants - 265 - 285oF, Silicone oil 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200oF dependant upon ratio’s used, Carnauba wax 180oF, and Bee’s wax 130oF.

[TeddyKGB]

Thanks to both of you.

Sounds like I could be using a seperate polish/compound and a seperate sealant instead of the XMT360. However would a true sealant mute my metal flake in the paint?

[killrwheels@autogeek]

simply polishes come from light (finishing) to heavy (compounds) and all are abrasive products. Becareful as some manufacturers use the word polish lightly and its really a paint sealant or synthetic car wax.

[wytstang]

Originally Posted by TeddyKGB

Thanks to both of you.

Sounds like I could be using a seperate polish/compound and a seperate sealant instead of the XMT360. However would a true sealant mute my metal flake in the paint?

XMT360 is more of an all in one type product. Better suited for just quick clean ups. Now if you really want to remove swirls/marring in the clear coat then a separate compound then followed by a polish will yield better results. A separate sealant (depending on which one you chose) will last longer then XMT360. As far as muting I would say probably not, Wolfgang's and 4 Stars sealant will make the flakes pop thats for sure.

[Torsion Tool]

Depending on how often you detail the vehicle and whether or not you use a sealant you might consider any use of glazes. They're good for a well maintained finish that sees regular washing with waxes only, but unnecessary after a polish if a sealant is then applied.