A few questions for the pro's

[Tropicality]

I have had different things that came to mind over the past few weeks and I'd like to find the answers.. so if you would be so kind, here they are!

If you have a swirl-free finish and then apply a sealant+wax to it, and then a week later induce minor swirls, are these swirls just in the wax/sealant, and by removing the wax+sealant, will it take these swirls away? Using logic I'm guessing that its a yes, unless the scratches get deep enough..

When there are aftermarket things painted onto a vehicle, such as flames or stripes, do you have to be really careful in polishing these due to the thin layer, even with a DA + light polish? Even if the answer to that is a yes, is it probably best not to go over them unless yoiu know for sure that there is a clearcoat layer on top of it?

Can a PC take bumps off from above the top layer of a finish? Such as small bubbles in the clearcoat?? Or can it only remove stuff that is below the top layer such as swirls? If it cannot - then does a rotary? If not, then is wetsanding the only answer?

With vinyl stickers, I'm guessing - don't take the PC near them? Is it okay to apply a sealant or wax over top of them? Or will it wreck them+change color by absorbing into it?? If that is a 'depends on brand answer', what brands are best for vinyl emblems/trim? DG #111? Souveran Liquid Wax? Is Klasse AIO okay over vinyl stickers that are on windows?

If any of you were to buy a brand new vehicle, would you take it and get another clearcoat layer put onto it?? Reasons why and why not??

Who holds this patent to yellow clay that prevents it from being sold in the USA?


As always, thanks alot for the input!

[killrwheels@autogeek]

If you have a swirl-free finish and then apply a sealant+wax to it, and then a week later induce minor swirls, are these swirls just in the wax/sealant, and by removing the wax+sealant, will it take these swirls away? Using logic I'm guessing that its a yes, unless the scratches get deep enough..

Swirls and marring are actually in the clearcoat, not really contained in a wax or sealant. They may help in getting them, but once they are there, you need to abrade (polish) the surface to remove them. Proper washing, and drying techniques help the most with avoiding swirls.

When there are aftermarket things painted onto a vehicle, such as flames or stripes, do you have to be really careful in polishing these due to the thin layer, even with a DA + light polish? Even if the answer to that is a yes, is it probably best not to go over them unless yoiu know for sure that there is a clearcoat layer on top of it?

Most custom paint jobs have the stripes, flames, and multiple colors or pearl added to the clearcoat. As such you can treat them as paint, because you are really working on the clearcoat, not the base coat (colored) levels. You want to be careful polishing anywhere where clearcoat can be light, especially corners and surrounds.

Can a PC take bumps off from above the top layer of a finish? Such as small bubbles in the clearcoat?? Or can it only remove stuff that is below the top layer such as swirls? If it cannot - then does a rotary? If not, then is wetsanding the only answer?

no ...if there is any bubbling in the clearcoat, you have clearcoat failure or improper prep prior to adding that level. While polishing with a PC or rotary might lessen or smooth these a bit, it is not the correct answer. You need to have the car repainted and repaired properly first.

With vinyl stickers, I'm guessing - don't take the PC near them? Is it okay to apply a sealant or wax over top of them? Or will it wreck them+change color by absorbing into it?? If that is a 'depends on brand answer', what brands are best for vinyl emblems/trim? DG #111? Souveran Liquid Wax? Is Klasse AIO okay over vinyl stickers that are on windows?

I would never polish over any type of pinstripping or vinyl applications. Use blue painters masking tape to stop any overrun while polishing. I would apply a good pure sealant or pure wax (none with cleaners) to provide some additional UV protection however. Just remember to use sparingly and dont leave and wax/sealant in the outside lining.

If any of you were to buy a brand new vehicle, would you take it and get another clearcoat layer put onto it?? Reasons why and why not??

no, first of all why ?? There is enough clearcoat for many years of protection on most cars. The real issue is learning how to properly wash, clay, polish and protect the finish so as to degrade the finish as least as possible. Again, learning to wash and dry properly and keep painted protected from UV will allow many years of protection and no worries of breaching the base coat.

Who holds this patent to yellow clay that prevents it from being sold in the USA?

I believe its Clay Majic or some such name. Fact is the courts seem to believe the patent was correct and it will be another several years before this yellow clay is once again available without purchasing direct from them. I truthfully find all clay to be the same, dont really care the color or makeup. The benefit is to make the surface smooth and pull any contaminents away from the paint prior to polishing and grinding them in.

[Tropicality]

Thankyou very much for all of the information killr!! Few more things.

Originally Posted by killrwheels@autogeek

Most custom paint jobs have the stripes, flames, and multiple colors or pearl added to the clearcoat. As such you can treat them as paint, because you are really working on the clearcoat, not the base coat (colored) levels. You want to be careful polishing anywhere where clearcoat can be light, especially corners and surrounds.

You say most, is there any way to tell? Also, please elaborate on the last part (surrounds?).

How do you tell if there is clearcoat over vinyl striping?

How do you tell if there is a clearcoat on the paint?

If paint is oxidized badly does that mean there is no clearcoat left?

Is it ok to polish if there is no clearcoat on the paint?

If there is a layer of clearcoat, how do you tell how thin it is?

How light should you be if you don't know how much of a clearcoat there is over the paint? Will just always starting with the least aggressive (with a PC) and moving up if need be, be totally fine/safe? Don't want to get myself in trouble!

[killrwheels@autogeek]

You say most, is there any way to tell? Also, please elaborate on the last part (surrounds?).

the only way to tell is to ask, and using a paint guage (very expensive) to gauge thickness. Surrounds = soft corners

How do you tell if there is clearcoat over vinyl striping?

When in doubt ask first, or skip and tape off !

How do you tell if there is a clearcoat on the paint?

Most modern cars use a primer, base coat, and clearcoat system. Thus the top level being cleaned and polished is usually clear. Some (Toyota, Lexus) still use single stage paint for blacks and reds and thus really working on base coat. If paint looks good, but you see some color transfer to pads you likely have single stage paint.

If paint is oxidized badly does that mean there is no clearcoat left?

not necessarily, clearcoat oxidizes also and becomes well less clear. Remember also from above, some paints dont come with clearcoat and thus oxidation in these cases is directly related to the base coat

Is it ok to polish if there is no clearcoat on the paint?

yes, but remember to use caution and polish only as needed. Sometimes a paint cleaner might be the initial choice to chemically remove the oxidation.

If there is a layer of clearcoat, how do you tell how thin it is?

Without a paint guage it would be impossible to tell. Remember however that each coat of clearcoat is only microns thin anyways. The idea is always to leave as much intact as possible while preparing the finish properly.

How light should you be if you don't know how much of a clearcoat there is over the paint? Will just always starting with the least aggressive (with a PC) and moving up if need be, be totally fine/safe? Don't want to get myself in trouble.

Remember when polishing paint you can vary the abrasiveness in two ways. Pad choice and polish choice. I usually start with a mid grade pad (like the white LC pad for instance). I then guage the polish based upon surfaces. If great, then a quick finishing polish only. Light swirls, maybe the nano-polish or midgrade (SSR 2 or XMT 2). If no dent in swirls with PC, then I move to orange pad but I personally never use the most abrasive pad. I much prefer to play with polishes. Always play it safe ... start light and move forward only as needed. .