Trial run with pc and xmt

[jake66]

I tried some experimenting with my 1966 Chevy Nova last Tuesday night. This was my first time using the PC with the XMT. I clayed the trunk lid only and started out with the XMT #3 with orange LC pad and followed up with the #1 on white pad. Results were not as good as I had hoped or expected. I then tried some old 3M Perfect-it II Rubbing Compond and an orange pad. Got a little better after following up with the XMT1. Some of the scratches were still present, some look like a cat scratches (damn cats).

My questions are:

Would another go with the rubbing compound and maybe a yellow pad get any better results?

Would the Menz products (SIP, IP or even powergloss) work better on this old of paint? It is 15+ years old, ss paint I think.

Should I be happy with the results I get and live with what's left, short of new paint? 6-8k for new paintjob.

I did notice that there was no red color coming off onto pad. I would've bet the farm and house that this is a single stage paint. Is it possible for and older ss paint to be hard enough as to not give color on pads? Or is this a n old base/clear paint?

Sorry for no pics but the painfully slow dial-up at the home in the boonies is just too frustrating. Plus did not have digital camera with me at the time. Thanks.

[Rsurfer]

Originally Posted by jake66

I tried some experimenting with my 1966 Chevy Nova last Tuesday night. This was my first time using the PC with the XMT. I clayed the trunk lid only and started out with the XMT #3 with orange LC pad and followed up with the #1 on white pad. Results were not as good as I had hoped or expected. I then tried some old 3M Perfect-it II Rubbing Compond and an orange pad. Got a little better after following up with the XMT1. Some of the scratches were still present, some look like a cat scratches (damn cats).

My questions are:

Would another go with the rubbing compound and maybe a yellow pad get any better results?

Would the Menz products (SIP, IP or even powergloss) work better on this old of paint? It is 15+ years old, ss paint I think.

Should I be happy with the results I get and live with what's left, short of new paint? 6-8k for new paintjob.

I did notice that there was no red color coming off onto pad. I would've bet the farm and house that this is a single stage paint. Is it possible for and older ss paint to be hard enough as to not give color on pads? Or is this a n old base/clear paint?

Sorry for no pics but the painfully slow dial-up at the home in the boonies is just too frustrating. Plus did not have digital camera with me at the time. Thanks.

I dont think a 42 yr old car has cc on it unless it has been re-painted. How long have you had this Nova? Do you know the history of this car? You did say 15+ yrs so Im puzzled. And yes, Menz would be a better choice than XMT. BTW are you moving the PC slowly, like 1" per second and is the polish breaking down? From your post, it seems like you know what you are doing.

[sal329]

It should be a non clear coat car, unless repainted as stated above. Did you do a test spot with a less abbrassive method first? Say XMT 2 on white pad, then XMT 3 on white? Work up from there? If you need to use XMT 3 on an orange pad then step it down to XMT 2 on a white then finishe with XMT 1.

[pricha00]

I think sometimes we expect miracles from an orbital and a mild combination of pads and polishes. I know that I thought scratch removal would be easier with my UDM than it turned out to be. DA polishers are quite proficient at removing very light scratching and micromarring. RDS are not at all easy to remove using this combination. It can be done but its alot of time and passes to correct any scratch that can easily be seen at any angle in a finish. Can you feel the scratches with your fingernail?? Pics would be nice but its still hard to determine the depth without seeing and feeling in person.

Pat.

[jake66]

The car has definitely been repainted, I just don't know for sure what year. I purchased it back in 1999 and all it has had done to it since then is glaze and wax.

I agree with the "I expected miracles" comments. I actually started with the xmt#1 on a white pad but was not getting the etching/water spot removal and moved up to #3 and orang pad. This was a little better. The rubbing compound and the orange pad worked better as long as I moved slowly and let the compound break down. This was hard to do at first, wanted to move the pc like a rotary. Followed up with the #1 on white pad to remove compounding marks.

I did some inspecting last night and determined that the car has some circular scratches that cannot be felt that appear to be from rotary sander or bad attempt to wet sand in circles. Just mainly a poor paintjob. The top of the car is the worst, looks like the cc is starting to fail. I will have to get pictures taken and uploaded. Of course when you move it ou of the flourescent shop lights into the sun, big difference.

This is of course only a "driver", I'm just trying to make the best of what is there. I had a question for those familiar with the Menz products. Would the SIP/micro combo better in this case than IP/FP? I think something with more nourishing oils would be the best in this case. Correct? I think a follow up with maybe RMG and a carnauba would yield better results in the end. Thanks.