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Lake Country Buffing Pads
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  #11  
Old 05-11-2008, 07:54 AM
AaronRaySmith's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 101
Re: Detailing... in the BUFF!

I light-compounded an entire car (black - 200 Grand AM GT) last night, and after, it looked very hazy, which I understand. But then after I wiped and applied a glze, it was very hard coming off? I prepped right, clay-bar, etc... but I ended up burning about 3,000 calories trying to get the haze and wax residue off afterwards...

I never went above 4 on my Makita, and I used fresh pads...???
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Diagnosed Obsessive Compulsive Vehicle Perfectionist
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www.PhuturePhysique.com & www.ESTnutrition.com
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2008, 08:03 AM
AaronRaySmith's Avatar
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Re: Detailing... in the BUFF!

Oh, also... due to my beginner status, what I did (don't cringe if this is VERY wrong) is applied the polish to a terry applicator 50% of the car, and applied a small stream (like a ketchup bottle I saw the 'pros' do in a bodyshop) directly to the paint, and then evened out with a terry applicator pad...

SO... I think, maybe the polish dried before I got to it with the Makita?? (I think Mike above, said perhaps if it dried it would lose its power)


*Also, is it imperative that I apply the polish or compound DIRECTLY to the foam pad like everyone says? I ALWAYS GET MASSIVE AMOUNTS OF SPLATTER AND SLING that take a long time to wipe off the windows.
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-Aaron R Smith, CESO/CPT
Diagnosed Obsessive Compulsive Vehicle Perfectionist
Chief Scientific Counsel & Development Executive//Professional Bodybuilder
www.PhuturePhysique.com & www.ESTnutrition.com
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  #13  
Old 05-11-2008, 08:14 AM
killrwheels@autogeek's Avatar
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Re: Detailing... in the BUFF!

I prep the pad not finish with polish, and always make sure finish is cool to touch. Use buffer on slow to spread the polish, then turn it up to avoid splatter.
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