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  #1  
Old 07-20-2006, 02:05 AM
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BLACK C5 Needs Help

I think I should write my question here instead of starting a new post, but if I am wrong please tell me. I am following Killrwheels around the forum to try and get all the answers. I drive a black 01 C5 and after having it detailed for the first time I have the worst swirl marks I have ever seen. I took it back to the car wash and they redid it, but that did not make it any better. I seriously get sick when I think about it. I have read all the replys as far as what products to use but I have never detailed any thing and I don't want to do anymore damage to my car. Isn't there something different about the corvettes paint that you have to be careful about or am I just confused? Should I really try to do this myself or find someone else? I thought you might have some specific answers for a black corvette. Hopefully. Thank you.

Last edited by killrwheels@autogeek : 07-20-2006 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 07-20-2006, 04:44 PM
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Ok ..... I need you to post what you have done if anything, and what the detailers did. I need to know what equipment you have and what products. I can help, but pics might be needed also.

I also highly recommend you watch this, and study the technique. Most swirls induced by the owner are likely from removing polish to soon (it does not break down, or they dont use enough speed with PC specifically)

http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/video/

remember black cars are mirrors, they will amplify a beautiful finish or amplify a bad on also.
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Old 07-20-2006, 05:00 PM
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Some General Steps for Black:

Washing --- it is important to use a foam gun, or at least two buckets (one water, one soap) for washing. You should never wash in circles, wash in straight lines and try to avoid moving back and forth in one stroke. Easier to come back and rewash a dirty panel. Use lots of clean water ....

Claying --- this step is abrasive, and can introduce some swirls. If you dont want your clay clogged with dirt and sand, then do this after washing. Straight lines no circles ... and allow the clay to respond to you on areas that need attention. It will grip, grab, and studder when it gets to a contaminent. Slow down and rework the area. Use lots of soap or lube, otherwise your clay will leave traces on the paint.

Drying --- A leaf blower is almost a must. You can sheet the water off the car by removing the nozzle and allowing the stream and force of the water to pull the larger amounts off. I almost always insist on using a spray detailer with some lubrication on damp panels before dragging a Waffle Weave drying towel over it. (Again no circles )

Polishing --- understand your choice in polishes and your choice in pads. Also understand the machine you'll be using (rotaries and Pc's are nowhere near alike). Never jump to the most abrasive polish (compound) and most aggressive pad (yellow - LC) first. Alot of times a good middle line polish and pad will do the trick. (see video above for hints). Allow the polish to work properly. Use the PC on the highest speed during this step (not initially as it will spit everywhere) and realize that you will afford each panel several minutes of attention. If you decide to stop quickly before the polish is done its job and broke down, you are likely taking a paste of grit and smearing it across your paint trying to remove it. And if your polish dries to soon, then consider priming your pad with a little water (damp NOT soaked) prior to starting and while polishing. When a polish is done it will look and feel like talc on your finger.

Jeweling --- yes, i said it once again. Black needs attention, and most black cars dont handle abrasive polishes well. They have smaller marring and hazing or holograms in paint. We need to take a lighter polish and lighter pad and do the same thing. It is very time consuming but is truly the best way to afford your finish the best possible outcome. Some polishes (menzerna) break down into a finishing polish quite well, but a rather abrasive pad being used with them, might also suggest using the same polish and a lighter or finishing pad in certain cases.

Protection ---it comes down to a polish or a wax. If using a wax we can use a glaze first to fill (ie. hide temporarily) and left over swirls. But if we polished right we are likely moving to either product. I suggest hand application and removal. I suggest multiple towels and I suggest a garage as possible. Put protection on in one direction in straight lines (no circles). If you drop your applicator then replace it. Follow manufacturers direction on removal. Replace your micro after every two-three panels. If you run into stubborn spots DONT rub harder .... spritz with a little qd'er and wipe it off.

these are some things I do to keep my car looking good. Its a daily driver and gets plenty of abuse, but I have found some proven regimines that might help. I hope you will consider trying ....
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Old 07-20-2006, 05:00 PM
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Well I have a dark blue (navy blue) C5 and will probably go to work on mine next week when my PC 7424 gets to me. My AG stuff will be here tomorrow.

I went the poorboy's route.
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Old 07-20-2006, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapidity
Well I have a dark blue (navy blue) C5 and will probably go to work on mine next week when my PC 7424 gets to me. My AG stuff will be here tomorrow.

I went the poorboy's route.
extremely user friendly choice. This kit works extremely well together, and easy for professionals and novices to learn and excel at.
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