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  #1  
Old 11-01-2007, 03:12 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 108
Winter AIO and ONR questions

It's time for my winter prep which I started a little, but now have questions. Keep in mind I do everything by hand since I don't own a random orbital or rotary.

AIO Questions:
  1. I find that using AIO cleans pretty well, but there are still spots that seem to need better cleaning. Should I use anything besides a good wash and clay prior to AIO?
  2. Using a microfiber applicator sprayed with a spritz of ONR mixed to clay lube ratio, then about a nickel size amount of AIO, I feel that the pad seems to absorb most of the product rather than apply it to the vehicle...I know thin is good, but not applying with a pad that seems dry when run across the paint so I end up having to use more...any solutions for this?
ONR Questions:
  1. Just got my Shmitt and ONR. Mixed up the recommended car was ratio and went to town. It feels like ONR is not creating a lot of lubrication for the Shmitt (though I always used Meg's GC with a sheepskin)...but there doesn't seem to be any marring, is this normal for ONR? If it is or isn't...it still seems to work really well.
  2. My wheels are nice and dirty. Can I use a wheel cleaner as usual, but use ONR to clean it off to avoid the hose altogether? Any tips here?
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  #2  
Old 11-02-2007, 05:43 PM
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2007, 06:32 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Louisville, KY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy View Post
It's time for my winter prep which I started a little, but now have questions. Keep in mind I do everything by hand since I don't own a random orbital or rotary.

ONR Questions:
  1. Just got my Shmitt and ONR. Mixed up the recommended car was ratio and went to town. It feels like ONR is not creating a lot of lubrication for the Shmitt (though I always used Meg's GC with a sheepskin)...but there doesn't seem to be any marring, is this normal for ONR? If it is or isn't...it still seems to work really well.
  2. My wheels are nice and dirty. Can I use a wheel cleaner as usual, but use ONR to clean it off to avoid the hose altogether? Any tips here?
Can't help you with Klasse AIO since I use Jeff's Werkstatt but here goes with ONR.

1. This is normal. You don't feel the lubrication but it has to be there or you would certainly notice the marring. ONR is a wonderful product, you will learn to love it as you use it more. One thing to remember, wash and dry a section at a time. If you allow ONR to dry, it will streak and you will have to go over that area again.

2. On a weekly basis, I only use ONR on my wheels, that is all I need. If you have brake dust caked on, ONR will do it but it will take quite a strong concentration of ONR and alot of elbow grease. Spraying the majority off with the hose and some wheel cleaner will make the job easier.

Last edited by Bert31 : 11-04-2007 at 10:06 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-03-2007, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert31 View Post
Can't help you with Klasse AIO since I use Jeff's Werkstatt but here goes with ONR.

1. This is normal. You don't feel the lubrication but it has to be there or you would certainly notice the marring. ONR is a wonderful product, you will learn to love it as you use it more. One thing to remember, wash and dry a section at a time. If you allow ONR to dry, it will streak and you will have to go over that area again.

2. On a weekly basis, I only use ONR on my wheels, that is all I need. If you have break dust caked on, ONR will do it but it will take quite a strong concentration of ONR and alot of elbow grease. Spraying the majority off with the hose and some wheel cleaner will make the job easier.
1. Already am loving it! I am glad to hear the lack of feeling slick is normal and that I won't be inducing scratching throughout the winter.

2. Do you think using the ONR and an old rag to wash the wheel after spraying a dedicated wheel cleaner would be as good as if I was rinsing off wheel cleaner with a hose or is it necessary to still rinse after using chemicals like this?

Thanks for the help. Hopefully someone can shed some light on my AIO questions as well!
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  #5  
Old 11-04-2007, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy View Post
1. Already am loving it! I am glad to hear the lack of feeling slick is normal and that I won't be inducing scratching throughout the winter.

2. Do you think using the ONR and an old rag to wash the wheel after spraying a dedicated wheel cleaner would be as good as if I was rinsing off wheel cleaner with a hose or is it necessary to still rinse after using chemicals like this?

Thanks for the help. Hopefully someone can shed some light on my AIO questions as well!
1. You will be fine using ONR. Remember if you car is lightly or moderately dirty, 1 oz per gallon. If it is really dirty, then bump it up to 2 oz per gallon for additional lubrication.

2. I like to start of by rinsing just to knock off as much of the brake dust at first as possible. Is that mandatory, no. Helpful, seems to be.

Here is my procedure if I am dealing with a really dirty wheel.

1) Set my hose on "Jet" and try to knock off as much brake dust as possible.
2) Spray wheel cleaner all over the wheel and let it sit for about 5 - 10 minutes while it loosens up the brake dust.
3) Use ONR at double strength (2 oz per gallon). For additional scrubbing ability, instead of using a towel or a wheel brush, I will use a terry applicator that most people use to apply wax with. Doing so just seems to scrub the brake dust off easier. - Note, if you use this terry applicator to scrub off brake dust, NEVER use it to apply wax to your paint later. You risk marring your paint severely if you do. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, use that applicator on your paint.
4) There have been limited cases where I will still have some break dust on the wheels even when using wheel cleaner, double strenght ONR and the terry applicator. In that case, detailer's clay will get the rest off. Slow process but will do it. ONR makes really good clay lube, the ratio of water to ONR is on the bottle of ONR.
5) Now I will apply Jeff's Werkstatt Prime Strong (Prime and Prime Strong are AIO's in the Jeff's Werkstatt line. Prime Strong is just like Prime except it has tiny mineral abrasives which do a great job polishing paint or wheels.) with any type of applictor you would apply wax with.
6) Allow Jeff's Werkstatt Prime 5 - 10 minutes to dry and buff off with a microfiber buffing towel - just like one you would buff sealant off your car with)
7) To make washing my wheels easier down the road, I seal my wheels with Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett (Acryilic Jett is the Flagship Acrylic Sealant in the Jeff's Werkstatt Line.
8) Give Acrylic Jett about 20 minutes or more time to dry then buff off.
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  #6  
Old 11-05-2007, 02:55 PM
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Keep in mind, in the post above, I only do that with a really dirty wheel. I clean my wheels each week with my regular weekly wash so I don't use wheel cleaner or clay on them. Sealant does not last as long on wheels as it does on your paint so I will touch up the Acrylic Jett about monthly to keep the cleaning of break dust a simple task. Ever 3 - 6 months I will repolish the wheels with Prime Strong then apply Acrylic Jett afterwards.
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2007, 06:57 PM
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Thank you for all of your advice Bert31.
What I ended up doing today to get the brake dust that seemed to be practically ground into the barrels of the wheels was to use some Bar Keeper's Friend. The stuff worked amazing at getting off the tough stuff.
On the front side of the wheels I used ONR mixed a bit stronger than the wash recommendation in a bucket with 2 gallons of water and a microfiber cloth. It worked really, really well. I then coated with AIO (still having issues with the stuff) but the wheels are sparkling for now.
I think I found some CC failure on 2 wheels ('06 Xterra with stock painted alloy rims). Must have been from the stuff I tried using a while back.
Thanks again for the wheel suggestions/tips.
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  #8  
Old 11-05-2007, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy View Post
Thank you for all of your advice Bert31.
What I ended up doing today to get the brake dust that seemed to be practically ground into the barrels of the wheels was to use some Bar Keeper's Friend. The stuff worked amazing at getting off the tough stuff.
On the front side of the wheels I used ONR mixed a bit stronger than the wash recommendation in a bucket with 2 gallons of water and a microfiber cloth. It worked really, really well. I then coated with AIO (still having issues with the stuff) but the wheels are sparkling for now.
I think I found some CC failure on 2 wheels ('06 Xterra with stock painted alloy rims). Must have been from the stuff I tried using a while back.
Thanks again for the wheel suggestions/tips.
I will try to answer you Klasse questions but remember, I am a Jeff's Werkstatt user so my knowledge of Klasse is limited.

Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy View Post
I find that using AIO cleans pretty well, but there are still spots that seem to need better cleaning. Should I use anything besides a good wash and clay prior to AIO?
Klasse AIO is an excellent paint cleanser, I am surprised it would leave anything. What do these spots look like? If you run your finger over them can you feel something on the paint? If so, then it is a surface contaminant that your clay was unable to pick up, maybe you will need a more aggressive clay. I don't know if Auto Geek sells medium grade clay, I used to get my from Sonus, now I get mine from Danase.com.

If you cannot feel it, that means the spots are in the pores of your clear coat (or paint if the car is single stage and therefore doesn't have a clear coat). If the spots are in the pores and Klasse AIO cannot get them out, you may need to compound polish the spots. If you decide to do this yourself, before going out and buying a dual action polisher, read up proper polishing methods.

Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy View Post
Using a microfiber applicator sprayed with a spritz of ONR mixed to clay lube ratio, then about a nickel size amount of AIO, I feel that the pad seems to absorb most of the product rather than apply it to the vehicle...I know thin is good, but not applying with a pad that seems dry when run across the paint so I end up having to use more...any solutions for this?
Not really, Jeff's Werstatt Prime and Prime Strong are both pretty "milky" Just like Klasse AIO and my foam applicator absorbs a decent amount of both of those too. Something you just have to live with.
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  #9  
Old 11-05-2007, 09:04 PM
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I have never used the ONR but I have it coming on my order which will be here on thursday, I can't wait to try it out.
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  #10  
Old 11-05-2007, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smith2287 View Post
I have never used the ONR but I have it coming on my order which will be here on thursday, I can't wait to try it out.
You will love it, especially with winter coming up. If you own a garage, you can wash your car out of the element and stay a little warmer.

Once you get down the process, it works great. I wouldn't recommend washing the entire car then drying it. If you do so, it will dry on the car and start to streak. Then you have to wash it again. I recommend washing a fifth or less of you car and then dry that area. Then move to the next fifth of your car and so on.

Last weekend, I washed the top of the car, the windshield, the side and rear windows then dryed that area. Then I did the hood and the front corner panels, then dried. Then the driver door and left rear corner panel then dried. Then the passenger door and right corner panel then dried. Lastly the rear of the car then dried. In the summer time, the ONR solution will dry faster so you will need to reduce the size of the sections. I also took the advice of another poster and use two towels. The first to dry off the majority of the solution, the second to completely dry off the area. Doing so eliminates streaks and gives me the best results.
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