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  #1  
Old 11-01-2007, 04:46 AM
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Polymer sealant (Chem 101)

I have been asked on a few e-mails to provide a simple chem explanation of polymers that are used in sealants-

Polymer: [: a chemical compound with many repeating structural unit, or monomers]
From the Greek: πολυ, polu, many; and μέρος, meros; part.The molecular structure of all polymers are based on a chain of carbon atoms, chemically it is a molecule formed by the chemical union of five or more identical combining units called monomers. A non-organic based wax formulated from polymers used to seal paint with a thin hard barrier. They are very durable and provide a very bright, but flat silvery shine. This type of product is a compromise as it does provide durability but lacks the properties of a Carnauba wax lacking both colour and depth, and because of a polymer's inherent Covalent (molecular) structure it cannot mimic the properties of a Carnauba wax.

If not properly engineered, polymer sealants may crack, yellow or distort the optics of the paint surface.Most quality polymer based sealants contain amine silicones (reactive alkoxy group) as well as a blend of resins and a small percentage of wax. Polymers used in sealants require a paint surface form a molecular bond to; they don't do well when asked to bond to metal to provide protection. A clear coat (paint) has porosity, so they bond very well and provide the intended protection. Since clear coat paint has porosity, a durable bond is formed and provides the intended protection.

The presence of oil or water may inhibit the cross-linking process of a polymer or linking together of the chains (monomers or building blocks) to form a ‘structure’ by acting as a barrier and will compromise its strength, durability, drying time, and bonding. Be sure that the surface of the vehicle can be left undisturbed and free from rain and water (condensation, dew,etc)) until the polymer has cross-linked (12-24 hours) or the surface protection may be compromised.

To provide a ‘clean’ oil-free paint surface to enable proper cross-linking use a polish that does not leave behind oils, or use an Isopropyl alcohol / distilled water ‘wipe-down’ or a chemical type paint cleaner (AIO)
Avoid were possible any moisture as the active ingredients (i.e. what isleft behind in the form of a film after application) will be diluted or washed out, negatively affecting its durability. That's why you should avoid rain, even morning dew with any curing sealant layers for at least 12-72 hours (product dependent). So, when you spray water on to a curing sealant, you are compromising its durability.

Fracture/evaporation temperatures - Polymers 350 oF (176°C), Acrylic resin 265 - 285 oF (130 - 140°C)
The term "melting point" when applied to polymers suggests not a solid-liquid phase transition but a transition from a crystalline or semi-crystalline phase to a solid amorphous phase. Melting temperature though abbreviated as simply Tm the property in question is more properly called the "crystalline melting temperature". Among synthetic polymers, crystalline melting is only discussed with regards to thermoplastics, as thermosetting polymers will decompose at high temperatures rather than melt.

Polymer application- ease of product removal is inversely proportional (less product easier removal) to the amount used (0.5-1.0 oz should be sufficient for most vehicles)



TOGWT ™ Copyright © 2002-2007. Jon Miller, all rights reserved

Last edited by TOGWT : 11-01-2007 at 04:53 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2007, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOGWT View Post
I have been asked on a few e-mails to provide a simple chem explanation of polymers that are used in sealants-

Polymer: [: a chemical compound with many repeating structural unit, or monomers]
From the Greek: πολυ, polu, many; and μέρος, meros; part.The molecular structure of all polymers are based on a chain of carbon atoms, chemically it is a molecule formed by the chemical union of five or more identical combining units called monomers. A non-organic based wax formulated from polymers used to seal paint with a thin hard barrier. They are very durable and provide a very bright, but flat silvery shine. This type of product is a compromise as it does provide durability but lacks the properties of a Carnauba wax lacking both colour and depth, and because of a polymer's inherent Covalent (molecular) structure it cannot mimic the properties of a Carnauba wax.

If not properly engineered, polymer sealants may crack, yellow or distort the optics of the paint surface.Most quality polymer based sealants contain amine silicones (reactive alkoxy group) as well as a blend of resins and a small percentage of wax. Polymers used in sealants require a paint surface form a molecular bond to; they don't do well when asked to bond to metal to provide protection. A clear coat (paint) has porosity, so they bond very well and provide the intended protection. Since clear coat paint has porosity, a durable bond is formed and provides the intended protection.

The presence of oil or water may inhibit the cross-linking process of a polymer or linking together of the chains (monomers or building blocks) to form a ‘structure’ by acting as a barrier and will compromise its strength, durability, drying time, and bonding. Be sure that the surface of the vehicle can be left undisturbed and free from rain and water (condensation, dew,etc)) until the polymer has cross-linked (12-24 hours) or the surface protection may be compromised.

To provide a ‘clean’ oil-free paint surface to enable proper cross-linking use a polish that does not leave behind oils, or use an Isopropyl alcohol / distilled water ‘wipe-down’ or a chemical type paint cleaner (AIO)
Avoid were possible any moisture as the active ingredients (i.e. what isleft behind in the form of a film after application) will be diluted or washed out, negatively affecting its durability. That's why you should avoid rain, even morning dew with any curing sealant layers for at least 12-72 hours (product dependent). So, when you spray water on to a curing sealant, you are compromising its durability.

Fracture/evaporation temperatures - Polymers 350 oF (176°C), Acrylic resin 265 - 285 oF (130 - 140°C)
The term "melting point" when applied to polymers suggests not a solid-liquid phase transition but a transition from a crystalline or semi-crystalline phase to a solid amorphous phase. Melting temperature though abbreviated as simply Tm the property in question is more properly called the "crystalline melting temperature". Among synthetic polymers, crystalline melting is only discussed with regards to thermoplastics, as thermosetting polymers will decompose at high temperatures rather than melt.

Polymer application- ease of product removal is inversely proportional (less product easier removal) to the amount used (0.5-1.0 oz should be sufficient for most vehicles)




TOGWT ™ Copyright © 2002-2007. Jon Miller, all rights reserved
I see some usefull information here. Thanks for sharing.
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2007, 01:31 PM
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Jon, how you feel about further Polycharging existing sealants that already have Polycharger in them (Ultima)?
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Old 11-01-2007, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
That's why you should avoid rain, even morning dew with any curing sealant layers for at least 12-72 hours (product dependent). So, when you spray water on to a curing sealant, you are compromising its durability.
That's a bit more difficult for those of use that don't have garages. Great info I really enjoy reading your post as they are always very informative. Thanks for taking the time.
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Old 11-01-2007, 04:02 PM
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Wow lot's of good stuff in there. Thanks for the info!
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  #6  
Old 11-01-2007, 06:53 PM
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where's the quiz ??
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2007, 02:57 AM
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Thanks a lot TOGWT!
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hes the one that asked what kind of sham poop does paul dalton use
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Klumzy, do you think there would be any of issues if you used "shampoop" + wax? j/k couldn't resist.
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Might be a perfect time to try out Klumzy's "Shampoop" on carpet.
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Old 11-02-2007, 06:00 AM
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AAAAHHHHHHH..........my head hurts now Good info TOWGT.......thanks!
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