Upcoming Detail - Need Help

[SickStroke6.0]

Long time lurker here... Been detailing for about 2 years now, as an enthusiast. Been using an array of products, with my Porter Cable 7424XP. A friend of mine, who has recently become pretty popular on Instagram in the diesel realm, wants me to bring his truck back to perfection and apply a nanocoating. His truck is a black 2007 Chevy 2500 CCSB Duramax with MPI twins and a list of other upgrades. Incredibly nice truck, and that is the only reason I offered to detail it, as I just do it for fun, not as a job. He takes pretty good care of it, but I have a feeling it has the typical swirls of a black vehicle. From what I've read, the GM trucks have a pretty hard paint, so I think I may can do a one step compound. Here is the vehicle, and my planned process:



-CG Citrus Wash w/ Dawn Foam Bath using MTM Foam Cannon to remove LSP
-2 bucket wash with CG Citrus Wash w/ Dawn to remove dirt, grime, and LSP
-Sonax on the front and rears of the wheels (will be removed from the vehicle
-APC (Shine Supply Solution diluted 1:1) scrubbed on the tires, wheel wells, frame, and engine bay
-Wolf's Iron Decon Gel on the entire vehicle
-Clay with Nanoskin Autoscrub and Mother's Detailing clay, utilizing Meguiar's Last Touch detail spray (diluted 1:1).
-Pat dry and tape all trim

-Paint Correction* using 80% Meguiar's M101 Foam Cut and 20% Meguiar's M205 (hoping to one-step to save time)
-Paint Correction* using 80% Shine Supply Classic Cut and 20% Shine Supply Classic Polish (doing test spot with both to see which will work better)
-Mike's "on-the-fly pad cleaning" procedure as I most likely will only have one or two sets of pads
-Polish glass with Shine Supply Glass Polish
-IPA wipedown (12% alcohol)
-Polish with Wolf's Shine and Glaze to remove and/or fill any remaining defects/haze (owner is perfectly fine with this, as he realizes the magnitude of the job).
-Seal paint with 2 coats of Wolf's Hard Body
-Seal wheels with 2 coats of Wolf's Rim Shield
-Seal glass with 2 coats of Wolf's Glass Sealant

While the coating is curing, I plan on detailing the interior:

-Shine Supply Solution APC and warm water (10:1) to degrease leather seats
-Duragloss Leather Conditioner on the seats
-Vacuum and pressure wash carpet mats
-Detail interior using Shine Supply Clean N Shine
-Clean door jams using QD and seal with CG V07 spray sealant

Dressings:

-Shine Supply Hyper Shine (or Meguiar's Hyper Dressing) on the wheel wells, tires, and engine bay
-CG Bare Bones (or Hyper Dressing) for suspension components, undercarriage, and frame.
-Shine Supply Trim Coat (permanent dressing) on plastic trim.

ANY SUGGESTIONS will be greatly appreciated!

But here is where the real question arises... I'm afraid the PC is too underpowered for true perfection on a job like this, so I am purchasing a 2.875" Lake Country backing plate and 3" LC HydroTech pads for the smaller, more intricate areas of the truck. Another big area of concern for this detail is time.. This will be an on-site detail, but in a warehouse, so I will need to be as quick as possible in order to avoid a second trip the following day.

So, for the larger areas, I am contemplating the purchase of a Rupes or a Flex. I have read multiple threads on this, and it hasn't helped too much. Many have said Rupes, but many have said the Flex is faster. Keep in mind, I don't do this for a living. Just for fun, but time will be of the essence. I have had many recommendations, including the Duetto. I was thinking the Rupes LHR 15ES with 4 6" Rupes Pads (one of each color, or maybe 2 of each polishing and cutting, and leave the finishing to the PC), but now I've seen people using the LHR 21ES with a 5" backing plate (which will be out of my comfortable budget) and even one guy (who has tried them all) stating the LHR 15ES is a waste, and would rather buy the Duetto instead.... Then there is the people stating the Flex outdoes them all, due to the forced rotation. I'm so lost LOL. Any help would be greatly appreciated, whether it be for the machine or my process!

I am also teaching the owner how to properly maintain it from now on, and suggesting the Wolf's Nano QD and Nano Bathe to keep the coating in tip-top shape.

Following this detail, I will have a 2013 F-150 FX4 needing the same treatment.

[SickStroke6.0]

Bump!

[cleanmycorolla]

The thing is, no one can tell you if the process is right, you'll decide that for yourself when you actually touch the car, but on paper your plans sounds great, now in action who knows! Its about test spots and testing products, what works best with that particular car.

Also, don't over think it, it's detailing a car, not surgery!

[refreshauto]

i have a 2014 Black Crew Cab Silverado, and i own a FLEX 3401 that i use with the 5" hybrid pads. i can tell you from experience this paint is hard. i had to use the orange cutting pads and the FG-400 to get any kind of results. i tried Pinnacle and Blackfire swirls removers and did nothing to the finish. i have never tried the M101 or the M205, it might work you just have to do some test spots and see what works for you.

[12silvy]

I just done a 2 step on my 2012 silverado and found it was hard but not super hard.


That's after compound with 105.


After 205

Look into getting hd adapt I just used it on a cruze and was blown away by how much cut and finishing ability it has.

[Jaretr1]

As far as the polisher...I was pondering the same thing recently, and after speaking with a few people who have used them all, the Rupes 21ES was what most recommended. I have used the Flex 3401 and its not an easy tool to use. At least it was not for me. After all, I decided to go with a vacuum over another polisher as thats something I use a lot more. My PX7424XP has served me just fine.

As far as your method, do some test spots to narrow down what gives the best result.

[parttimer]

Your PC "could" do it but your probably looking at an easy 10-12 hour day if doing inside and out. You really should get an up close shot and see what you are dealing with, it could be something as simple as the wolfgang twins and not the megs line.
Looking at the acres of mostly flat panels on that i would get a Rupes 15 if you "wanted" to get something new. If its a mostly flat car, I use my Rupes, if I am going to encounter funky panels, I use the flex.

I am not familiar with the Wolf products or HD for that matter so I can't comment on them.
Your wash doesn't need to worry about removing the LSP, your compounding or polishing the paint, it will get worn off.

Define "sets of pads" as that hulk is going to require a few! I went through 4 on a RAM 1500 until I built my pad cleaner. That pad cleaner has made life simply now!
Make sure you get some good pics, it should look sweet!

[SickStroke6.0]

As far as the polisher...I was pondering the same thing recently, and after speaking with a few people who have used them all, the Rupes 21ES was what most recommended. I have used the Flex 3401 and its not an easy tool to use. At least it was not for me. After all, I decided to go with a vacuum over another polisher as thats something I use a lot more. My PX7424XP has served me just fine.

As far as your method, do some test spots to narrow down what gives the best result.

Thanks for your input!

The thing is, no one can tell you if the process is right, you'll decide that for yourself when you actually touch the car, but on paper your plans sounds great, now in action who knows! Its about test spots and testing products, what works best with that particular car.

Also, don't over think it, it's detailing a car, not surgery!

I'm really just needing guidance on polishers.

i have a 2014 Black Crew Cab Silverado, and i own a FLEX 3401 that i use with the 5" hybrid pads. i can tell you from experience this paint is hard. i had to use the orange cutting pads and the FG-400 to get any kind of results. i tried Pinnacle and Blackfire swirls removers and did nothing to the finish. i have never tried the M101 or the M205, it might work you just have to do some test spots and see what works for you.

I've heard it's pretty hard, and that's why I'm hoping for the ability to one-step it to cut down on time.

I just done a 2 step on my 2012 silverado and found it was hard but not super hard.


That's after compound with 105.


After 205

Look into getting hd adapt I just used it on a cruze and was blown away by how much cut and finishing ability it has.

Which polisher did you use? Looks great!

Your PC "could" do it but your probably looking at an easy 10-12 hour day if doing inside and out. You really should get an up close shot and see what you are dealing with, it could be something as simple as the wolfgang twins and not the megs line.
Looking at the acres of mostly flat panels on that i would get a Rupes 15 if you "wanted" to get something new. If its a mostly flat car, I use my Rupes, if I am going to encounter funky panels, I use the flex.

I am not familiar with the Wolf products or HD for that matter so I can't comment on them.
Your wash doesn't need to worry about removing the LSP, your compounding or polishing the paint, it will get worn off.

Define "sets of pads" as that hulk is going to require a few! I went through 4 on a RAM 1500 until I built my pad cleaner. That pad cleaner has made life simply now!
Make sure you get some good pics, it should look sweet!

Thank you for the input!! The long work time of the PC is the reason why I want to upgrade. I own a bunch of trucks, so the Rupes 15 maybe my best bet.

I have a close up picture of the paint, and will upload it tonight when I get off work.

Any details on your DIY pad cleaner?

[12silvy]

I used the GG6 with 5.5 lc flat orange and white, and a PC with 3 hydro techs. It took me about 10 hours of compounding/polishing. I took my time and worked slow though.

The cruze I just completed was done with GG6 and hd adapt on a white pad and it cut all the swirls and light scratches and was lsp ready except a few areas that I had to use an orange pad.. It was black as well.

[parttimer]

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ad.php?t=77389

I built one of these, awesome $40 purchase!

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