LSP stripping - soaps/foam cannon

[beamerstrumpet]

Guys, I have one simple product for you found in any hardware store. It is for removing anything that will keep paintfrom sticking to a car. or anything you put on it. its even safe for lexan windows (we used it on aircraft)
AKA =

used to remove oils and contaminates and glue from painting surfaces. It cleans everything. also can be used as a paint thinner for faster drying and preventing runs,, though I have never used it that way.

[swanicyouth]

Guys, I have one simple product for you found in any hardware store. It is for removing anything that will keep paintfrom sticking to a car. or anything you put on it. its even safe for lexan windows (we used it on aircraft)
AKA =

used to remove oils and contaminates and glue from painting surfaces. It cleans everything. also can be used as a paint thinner for faster drying and preventing runs,, though I have never used it that way.

This made me think of using lighter fluid in a foam cannon and making a flame thrower. Can you imagine, "time to strip the LSP..."

[cshamilton]

Well, I am curious what you guys think about this. I know folks say that soap alone, soap with APC, basically nothing will strip a LSP through a foam cannon.

Ok, so, when using a bug and tar remover, you must re-apply the LSP to that area.

DG901/902/903 says to use straight on bugs/tar and I find that it does work. Wouldn't that remove the LSP?

[PiPUK]

If your LSP is strong then almost nothing which is water dilutable and paint safe will do the job. Every single example I have seen which supposedly does the job turns out not to. For example, there is a detox type product sold in the UK which detailers sing the praises of but it simply doesn't strip. It leaves a film which makes the water beading disappear but a good scrub with hot water and the beading is back. To further demonstrate how tough a good LSP is to remove, the above product can be cleaned away using neat IPA - yes, neat IPA recovers the hydrophobic character of the wax, it doesn't strip it. Have you never wondered why waxes are based around hydrocarbon solvents (like mineral spirits) and not IPA? Simple, wax doesn't really dissolve in IPA!

OK, I have said all this before but here goes again...

1) Waxes - should be easiest to strip, in large part because (assuming it doesn't contain synthetic polymers, which many do) it doesn't bond to the surface. Strong alkalinity has a good chance of removing wax but it genuinely needs to be strong. People often use APCs but the alkalinity in these is moderate and really only would have a chance on degraded wax. Often when people find an APC to work it is down to.... the surfactants within it leaving a film. Solvents, again, you have a fighting chance. IPA is not going to do anything (likewise similar products based on it - Eraser) to a good wax, only if it is significantly degraded. Hydrocarbon solvents, like mineral spirits, are a better bet since (as above) wax actually dissolves in these (but it isn't a fast dissolution, don't be expecting that wax dissolves in mineral spirits easily like sugar does in water!). So things like panel wipe and cream cleanser type products are a good thing to try. With a degraded wax, it might be quite easy but with a strong wax, it should be hard work. Guaranteed solution is a quick polish with an abrasive type product.

2) Sealants/synthetics - The job is made tougher because these are inherently less reactive and they actually bond to a surface. Alkalinity is less likely to work, to the point I wouldn't even bother trying it. You are stuck with your hydrocarbon solvent approach (panel wipe/cleanser) but it will be harder. Personally, I wouldn't bother trying to strip a sealant without an abrasive (unless it is almost gone already).

3) Coatings - no point even talking about anything short of an abrasive.

The real key thing which I feel detailers fail to do is to confirm the removal of their LSP. Typically, a quick rinse with the hose to show the beading is gone is all that is done (many even just take the word of the product supplier). After a stripping technique, especially a surfactant heavy technique, a good detailer simply must do a supplementary wash, preferrably with hot water, to remove any residual surfactants. Even a decent IPA wipe down (some on here have tried this an will confirm) can be a good idea. You would be shocked how often this will result in some of the water behaviour of your LSP returning again.

[swanicyouth]

The way I see it, is you just need to polish away your LSP to do a professional job. While soaps, APCs, and lighter fluids may possibly remove LSP from wiping them on the panel - it's just not going to do much to improve the finish or remove the LSP reliably.

I've done home versions of stripping tests above, and I can tell you they are accurate by first hand account. In fact, the only sprayable product I found to strip sealants was Wheel Bright (no - this testing wasn't done on my car). Waxes & hybrid waxes were removable easier.

The only thing I don't get is "the film". I have experienced "the film" killing beading. But, "the film" always rinses away for me with a lot of water being pressure sprayed.

[Bunky]

I would suggest using a pre-wax cleaner (pure aka pure polish)so you not only strip the LSP but also can remove water spots, etc.

[PiPUK]

The only thing I don't get is "the film". I have experienced "the film" killing beading. But, "the film" always rinses away for me with a lot of water being pressure sprayed.

I would agree with you (though sometimes it takes a bit of work). What has become clear to me is that a lot of people don't do this really thorough rinse. They use the stripper, give it a quick rinse (sometimes almost no rinse at all), beading gone - job done. Had they taken the time to do what you note, they would frequently see that the beading starts to come back.

In truth I have put this idea forward because I am stumped at how so many people believe dawn or other simple surfactant products can strip LSPs. My experience is that such products never strip any products I mess around with so the film idea is a mixture of something I know exists and a desperate attempt to explain why people find stripping so dramatically easier than I do. The only other alternative is that a vast number of LSP products on the detailing scene are simply rubbish. Whilst many are more about hype than substance, my formulation experience is such that I would really struggle to produce an LSP sufficiently poor that it could be stripped in this way. As such, I find it easier to believe the idea that end users are being fooled by the films than the LSPs they use are so poor.

[cshamilton]

Yeah I love the s100 paint cleansing lotion for the price. It's very good at what it does. Also duragloss 501 works well

[beamerstrumpet]

pure polish SCG beyond clay.

[nat88]

it seems polishing is the way to go