First semi truck detail HELP!!!

[Divine Details]

Good morning Auto Geeks got a call this morning about detailing a semi truck. Never done a semi before so any advice is highly appreciated.
I have a few questions.
How long to 1step polish or AIO?
What type of paint normally CC, SS, or gel coat.
Thanx

[tuscarora dave]

They are normally either gel coat or "Imron" paint or some other form of rough service paint that is super durable and super hard to correct swirls and scratches. You'll likely take a beating on your first semi detail if you even mention swirl removal to the owner. Save yourself the headache and sell "Clean and shiny" and not a swirl removal.

The metal or "Bright work" as some call it is whole nother ball game. I'd go to a Kenworth Dealer and ask them for the right products and some tips for their use, and be prepared to get really black and ruin whatever pads you use on the aluminum.

Forum Member...Vegas Transplant surely can shed some light on the bright work subject as he's either an active or retired truck driver (not too sure of his status) but he's well informed on the subject.

[FUNX725]

Originally Posted by Divine Details

Good morning Auto Geeks got a call this morning about detailing a semi truck. Never done a semi before so any advice is highly appreciated.
I have a few questions.
How long to 1step polish or AIO?
What type of paint normally CC, SS, or gel coat.
Thanx

IMO...AGO forum member Vegas Transplant would be the Man I would contact if I were you!
(That is, of course..If he doesn't see this thread aforetime.)
He's been there, done that...many, many times.



Bob

[Buckskincolt]

Originally Posted by FUNX725

IMO...AGO forum member Vegas Transplant would be the Man I would contact if I were you!
(That is, of course..If he doesn't see this thread aforetime.)
He's been there, done that...many, many times.



Bob

Vegas is your Man?

[Vegas Transplant]

Thanks for the kind words hands!

1A. You will polish according to your test spot revelation.
2A. Varies according to manufacturer and age. And can be a combination of two or more depending on whether the truck has been fleet maintained.
EX. The aero-shield on some tractors are fiberglass and have been damaged and replaced.They also can be gel coat or painted. While the tractor itself may be either bc/cc or ss.

The biggest hurdle? Equipment such as ladders, scaffolding, forklift etc...

Day cabs are the easiest and can be done by ladder only.
Depending on whether they have the top aeroshield or not.


Truck models that are CLASSIC, such as W900, 359,379, 389, Fld 120 Classic - can be spider- monkey'ed according to body weight and no platform needed, just a ladder.




The issue arises when you get to trucks like the Volvo 660, Freightliner Cascadia, Coronado, Century, and other aerdynamic class 8 vehicles. You will most definitely need a platform to detail off of.



There is not a lot of money to be made off class 8 vehicles that are work trucks. Most drivers just want them clean and shiny and no BS. And company reimbursement is limited to a preset #, with the driver absorbing the rest.

When it comes to the bright work, if owner specifies a degree of bling, make sure that you can accomplish this with tools and products at hand. Most parking lot shiners charge $15 per wheel and $30 per tank and can readily be found all over a class 8 travel lanes.

Use the search feature, keyword Peterbuilt and find threads pertaining to class 8 detailing. I believe forum member LuxuryMobile and Advanced (South Florida) have show and shines of Peterbilt 379, and Freightliner Century Class, respectfully.
You will notice in the thread that Advanced used a forklift and platform.


Pics of vehicle would be helpful in determining paint.

[FUNX725]

Originally Posted by Vegas Transplant

^^^^What'd I tell ya, Divine Details ^^^^

Thanks, VT, for sharing your knowledge!!



Bob

[Vegas Transplant]

Suggestions:

*Purchase bug scrubbers Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad can be used on glass, chrome, vinyl, fiberglass, paint and clearcoats—100% safe when used with soapy water. . These can be cut length wise for better dexterity around stacks while working off a ladder-preferrable 10-12Ft as an 8ft may prove to be a little shakey.

*Purchase a bi-level split bristle nylon truck brush which can be found at most detail suppliers. Will save a lot of time and effort over a washmitt.

*It's a good idea to remove blobs of 5th wheel grease off of frame, catwalks, steps, quarter/half fenders, etc., BUT NOT OFF OF THE 5TH WHEEL ITSELF! No matter how dirty this grease is.

* Clean all SS/chrome first, including stacks, mirrors, grill surround and windshield.

* Use a degreaser (APC diluted) on wheels and fuel tanks, and on the frame. If these items are already at high shine, then forgo the APC and just use soap, as APC will either 'spot' or 'haze' the aluminum.

*Be extra careful of 5th wheel grease that may get on your shoes or clothing...but especially on your wash brush and pressure washer hose.

* Wash tractor thoroughly...BUT DO NOT DRY YET. Very important.

*Fire up the engine and increase the rpm's to a steady 1800-2100 rpm's to dispel any water trapped in the exhaust stack elbow...it won't hurt to run up the rpm's against the governor.

*FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS STEP MAY RESULT IN A HIGHLY FINISHED END PRODUCT THAT IS COVERED IN A BLACK SOOTY RAIN-LIKE MESS ONCE IT'S FIRED UP, or as the driver goes through the gear box while departing.

Kinda busy right now, if I think of anything else Ill get back this evening.


Again, thanks fellow forum members for allowing me to feel a part of, as opposed to being just a poster, on these boards.

[Vegas Transplant]

Originally Posted by vegas transplant

suggestions:

* wash tractor thoroughly...but do not dry yet. Very important.

*Safely, fire up the engine and increase the rpm's to a steady 1800-2100 rpm's to dispel any water trapped in the exhaust stack elbow...it won't hurt to run up the rpm's against the governor.

*Shut down engine, then do final rinse to remove soot/water expelled from exhaust stacks. Proceed with normal detail steps.

*failure to follow this step may result in a highly finished end product that is covered in a black sooty rain-like mess once it's fired up, or as the driver goes through the gear box while departing.

addendum in blue.

*Be aware that if power washing tractor frame, hidden 5th wheel grease and Zerk fittings may leave heavy deposits of grease on pavement or drive way. Can make a huge mess.

* May be wise to tape up the openings to the glad hands if there is no glad hand bracket (holder), but failure to do so will have no impact on you, or your detail.

[Divine Details]

Thanks Vegas.
I went and checked out the truck today. It looks like a bc/cc paint job to me. The paint is in very good condition and the only polish needed/wanted is where some branches scuffed the paint.
Also found out the wheels are clear coated so no polishing them
I'll post pics when I get done it done.
Again Thanx everyone.

[Kevin Cullen]

Divine, Vegas is correct on his tellings on how to do your project. Large cars are a different beast to detail. The roof caps on Peterbilts are fiberglass and the rest of the truck is painted aluminum. Glad to here you don't have to worry about the wheels but be careful of the tanks and the grill surrounds and headlights if they are aluminum. 9.8 times out of 10 these are uncoated aluminum and any chemical will discolour them and it is a bit of work to bring them back to mirror finish with the proper tools and polishes. Very rare have I come across a stainless steel wrapped fuel tank but they are out there.