Opti Coat (OC) or Opti Guard )OG) Revenation

[Chris@Optimum]

Originally Posted by octane

Chris, I am probably guilty of overthinking the OC process... I'm pretty sure I buffed too much, now the problem I have is that after a good wash with some apc added, water still bead off 80% of the paint surface, the rest I probably removed the OC when buffing the high spots... (my fault)

what should I do, polish the whole car then reapply? or can I just reapply without removing the OC 2.0 that is still there?

when Old Tiger says that OC is layerable, is it true for all OC 2.0 produced, or was there a change in product recently?

thanks

The surface will need to be cleaned well again...maybe a mild clay if its been awhile, but you can add another coat without polishing most times. Sometimes after 30-90 days, you may need a pass or two with a finishing polish if you test an area and it streaks immediately unlike the normal flashing.

[PoorOwner]

As a consumer paying for OC installed, I was promised it will be easy to wash and take care of (no need to wax your car)... to need a non OTC product like IronX, clay and polish seems to me just maintaining another clear coat to me. I do understand the benefit of having the extra coat as a sacraficial layer.

Just saying.. from a consumer point of view.

[Chris@Optimum]

Originally Posted by PoorOwner

As a consumer paying for OC installed, I was promised it will be easy to wash and take care of (no need to wax your car)... to need a non OTC product like IronX, clay and polish seems to me just maintaining another clear coat to me. I do understand the benefit of having the extra coat as a sacraficial layer.

Just saying.. from a consumer point of view.

It is easy to wash. But automated touch less washes don't get the car clean and can allow a buildup of road film. We have always asserted that having a coating applied is not excuse use to cut corners on proper maintenance, just that it would be easier. I'm certain a hand wash once or twice a month would not have allowed this level of contamination...and OG wasn't a sacrificial barrier in this case. It did prevent penetration that OEM clear would not have.

Also, OC is our consumer version. If I were paying a professional to do it I would want the professional version, Opti Guard.

[octane]

Originally Posted by PoorOwner

As a consumer paying for OC installed, I was promised it will be easy to wash and take care of (no need to wax your car)... to need a non OTC product like IronX, clay and polish seems to me just maintaining another clear coat to me. I do understand the benefit of having the extra coat as a sacraficial layer.

Just saying.. from a consumer point of view.

the contamination on this car was probably 10X what a normal car would see in one year, so a case like this would not happen on 99% of cars. I think that what we have seen, this is a tribute to how well OC can protect the clear coat in cases of severe contamination!

[tuscarora dave]

Very interesting thread!!

I applied Opti-Coat 2.0 to my personal car nearly 2 years ago. Reason for application was two fold.

1. So that I could concentrate on customer's cars instead of having to budget time to keep my own car waxed or sealed.

2. So I could torture the living crap out of the Opti-Coat 2.0 application on my own car, in order to see for myself whether an application of it would be something I could confidently offer my customers, or if it would just be another hollow marketing hype type of product that would be more of a liability than an asset for my customers and my detailing business.

I have regularly sprayed a liberal coating of a concentrated alkaline all purpose cleaner onto my car and allowed it to fully dry in direct sunlight, then I re-wet the car and wash it with a wash brush and car wash concentrate to remove any road film that the APC may not have emulsified. For days after washing the car like this, people often times comment on my freshly waxed car. They can't believe it when I tell them that I haven't polished or waxed it in nearly 2 years.

My prep for this particular application was to polish with M-205 followed by PO85RD both via rotary, wash with alkaline degreaser then wipedown with a cheap Glass cleaner (Basically RO water, vinegar and alcohol) and apply Opti-Coat 2.0 very sparingly followed by a very light wiping with a MF towel to smooth out any wet spots from changing directions with the supplied foam applicator.

I believe that if the vehicle is prepped properly, OC or OG should surpass the expectations of any car owner.

I offer OC or OG not as a permanent coating but rather a 2 year coating, informing the customer that the manufacturer calls it a permanent coating but my torture testing is only 2 years into the test.

Just my unsolicited 2 cents. TD

[Old Tiger]

Originally Posted by octane

the contamination on this car was probably 10X what a normal car would see in one year, so a case like this would not happen on 99% of cars. I think that what we have seen, this is a tribute to how well OC can protect the clear coat in cases of severe contamination!

Spot on! Very well stated!

[Old Tiger]

Originally Posted by tuscarora dave

Very interesting thread!!

I applied Opti-Coat 2.0 to my personal car nearly 2 years ago. Reason for application was two fold.

1. So that I could concentrate on customer's cars instead of having to budget time to keep my own car waxed or sealed.

2. So I could torture the living crap out of the Opti-Coat 2.0 application on my own car, in order to see for myself whether an application of it would be something I could confidently offer my customers, or if it would just be another hollow marketing hype type of product that would be more of a liability than an asset for my customers and my detailing business.

I have regularly sprayed a liberal coating of a concentrated alkaline all purpose cleaner onto my car and allowed it to fully dry in direct sunlight, then I re-wet the car and wash it with a wash brush and car wash concentrate to remove any road film that the APC may not have emulsified. For days after washing the car like this, people often times comment on my freshly waxed car. They can't believe it when I tell them that I haven't polished or waxed it in nearly 2 years.

My prep for this particular application was to polish with M-205 followed by PO85RD both via rotary, wash with alkaline degreaser then wipedown with a cheap Glass cleaner (Basically RO water, vinegar and alcohol) and apply Opti-Coat 2.0 very sparingly followed by a very light wiping with a MF towel to smooth out any wet spots from changing directions with the supplied foam applicator.

I believe that if the vehicle is prepped properly, OC or OG should surpass the expectations of any car owner.

I offer OC or OG not as a permanent coating but rather a 2 year coating, informing the customer that the manufacturer calls it a permanent coating but my torture testing is only 2 years into the test.

Just my unsolicited 2 cents. TD

Thanks TD! This is similar to what I see!

[Old Tiger]

Originally Posted by Hoytman

Thanks for the clarification Chris.

Originally Posted by Chris@Optimum

I think we may have uncovered the origin of the issue. Touchless washes use very strong detergents that don't fully remove the road film that accumulates on a vehicle. With experience on interiors, we can learn that not rinsing detergents thoroughly from carpets will actually "attract" dirt faster...and that'd be no different with the exterior. Not fully removing the road film with a hand wash from time to time and a few washes not fully rinsing away the chemicals would allow the surface to start holding contaminants. Just take a white towel with you and dry off the car after a touchless wash to confirm my theory.

The good news is that Opti Coat did not allow them to penetrate like they would have on OEM clear! I'm glad you were able to get to the issue without too much effort. Also, its good to hear you like the polishes. A lot of time has gone into them and we are always trying to improve!

I think you nailed the source of the contimination Chris! The amazing clay bar replacement was a great step after Iron X. Chris, do you want to see a picture?

[Chris@Optimum]

Of course I do!

[Chris@Optimum]

I shot this yesterday just to show that things on the surface can change beading. The only time to assume Opti Coat is gone is after your certain there's no film. The science behind Opti Coat creates a bond so strong that it actually becomes part of it...so I never intend to offend customers by suggesting user error...but if you clean it well and it doesn't bead, it has to be in the prep.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...7965415CCB.mp4

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