Which vac would you choose?

[escaper28]

As a newbie on this forum, I would like some advice.

I have researched all the old posts on this issue and feel like I'm stuck.

If you had to go with a new vac would you go with the new Detailers 8 Gallon 2.5HP wet/dry vac or the 4HP Metro Vac N Blo?

I have read some really good reviews on both of them and with the price around the same and the lift about the same ( just a little difference). I am doing more and more interiors and need something to make the jobs go easier.

Any advice, tips, advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

[Mike lambert]

Hoover guv,half the price of metro,just as good. I use mine twice a day 7 days a week , it has been in service 3 years

[Sommy]

Always go with the more powerful vac.

[Andy6228]

How do you measure which is most powerful?

[Flash Gordon]

Originally Posted by Andy6228

How do you measure which is most powerful?

You turn them both on, then put them over your eye sockets and see which one tries to suck your eyeball out the fastest

[Bill1234]

I would have to go with the craftsman shop vac at 6.5 or 6 hp

[ShaunD]

I think the deciding factor for OP should be what is the ultimate intended use for the vac?...

[oldmodman]

I just waited for Rigid to go on sale at Homers.

Still working great after six years.

[A-train]

Originally Posted by oldmodman

I just waited for Rigid to go on sale at Homers.

Still working great after six years.

For the price you can't beat a rigid, which will leave you more money to spend on other detailing supplies

[BobbyG]

Originally Posted by escaper28

As a newbie on this forum, I would like some advice.

I have researched all the old posts on this issue and feel like I'm stuck.

If you had to go with a new vac would you go with the new Detailers 8 Gallon 2.5HP wet/dry vac or the 4HP Metro Vac N Blo?

I have read some really good reviews on both of them and with the price around the same and the lift about the same ( just a little difference). I am doing more and more interiors and need something to make the jobs go easier.

Any advice, tips, advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

To Autogeek Online!

I have the new Detailer's 8 Gallon 2.5 HP Wet/Dry Auto Detailing Vacuum. It's as powerful as any vacuum I've owned and I like the additional vacuum bag option while allows me to throw it away when full.

The Detailer's 8 Gallon come with a 35 foot electrical cord and has 90" of vacuum suction, this is where the rubber meets the road so to speak..

Another surprise is how quiet this vacuum is! You can have a conversation standing right next to it "while it's running" without raising your voice!!

The Detailer's 8 Gallon 2.5 HP Wet/Dry Auto Detailing Vacuum is a bit pricy but from time to time Autogeek runs a sale and it can be had for less.

Detailer's 8 Gallon 2.5 HP Wet/Dry Auto Detailing Vacuum = 1 nice vacuum...

A side note:

Don't get caught up in the Horsepower!!

The numbers

• 1 horsepower = 745 watts
• Watts \ Volts = Amps

Craftsman (6.5hp X 746) / 115 volts = 45.25 amps
RIGID (5hp X 746) / 115 volts = 32.5 amps
Shop-Vac (6.5hp X 746) / 115 volts = 45.25 amps

Regardless of manufacture they all do it and in my opinion BS...

I guess I should be running my old Craftsman vacuum on a #6 wire and a 50amp circuit breaker but I never have. It's always run fine on a standard 15amp circuit breaker...


So, is this horsepower thing just a gimmick? Mostly.

The underlying truth of what the manufacturer is probably not telling you (or the salesperson simply doesn't know), is that a so-called "five horsepower" device really means that, under very particular conditions, it is capable of developing 5 HP of peak power -- for a very brief interval of time. This is not continuous, full-load power. Note that they might use the term "develops" or "peak" immediately preceding the horsepower figure in the rating claim. Often stated as "develops 5 HP."

The peak power of a motor in this situation is calculated by measuring its electrical power consumption at its stall torque, as simulated in a laboratory. A mechanical load such as a braking mechanism is applied to the running motor, which causes the shaft to stop turning. At that precise moment in time, the motor will draw its peak electrical power (kids, don't try this at home). At that point, the motor is suddenly drawing an abnormally high amount of current -- a phenomenon called "locked rotor current," which is similar to inrush current. You may witness this phenomenon when your circular saw momentarily binds up while cutting wet wood (notice how the lights dim when this happens!).

The whole concept of peak power is silly, because the motor is not intended to be operated in this condition for more than a brief interval. It is not a practical measurement of the motor's true capabilities.

A motor in a device such as a saw is better defined by the power delivered while continuously doing its intended job - cutting wood! Stalling an electric motor for more than a few seconds will cause it to heat up and possibly burn out, though your circuit breaker will (hopefully) trip first. The motor is, for a very brief moment, drawing much more current than normal.

The manufacturers cleverly use this abnormally high electrical current transient to calculate its "peak" horsepower, using the same equation discussed above. This mathematical sleight-of-hand affords the manufacturer some distorted bragging rights as to power. Take a look at the amperage, the secret lies here...

In short, it's a way to deceive the customer into thinking horsepower is king..........It is but only on the racetrack...