Quote:
Originally Posted by gardnerr2 
My real question is would buying a Flex L3403 VRG be acceptable for my level of experience?
I really want another tool for the tight areas, and the headlights of my dad's VW are terrible (looking to fix those without sanding for obvious reasons).
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For getting into tight areas smaller, lightweight compact rotary buffers are better and easier to do this type of work because they are smaller and lighter. Some will argue with that point and that's their opinion but when using small pads it's a heck of a lot easier to do intricate work without having to manage more weight and bulk.
That said, as long as you focus on the task at hand you can sue the full size rotary buffers for surgical work.
Here's the Flex 3403 in action as I machine buff out the windshield frame of a 1932 Ford. I could do this with a larger full size rotary buffer but because I have the lightweight, compact rotary buffer as an option it's a no brainer.
Pictures + Video of 1932 Ford Highboy Extreme Makeover 
Here's some surgical buffing using the Flex PE14
Surgical Buffing
Pinstriping paint tends to be more on the soft side versus hard side so you don't want to run your buffing pads over any pinstripes but you do want to buff as close to them as you can. In this picture I'm using an extension to position the pad a little farther away from the polisher so I can more easily see where the edge of my buffing pad is on the panel.
When buffing thin panels, or working next to edges, hold the rotary buffer with a firm grip and focus on the task at hand...
Edging - Buffing along an edge to knock it out before buffing out the rest of the major portions of the panel. By edging a panel first you don't have to buff near the edges as close when you switch over to a larger pad to buff out the panel.
I have some 3" pads that are not actually available. I asked Eric Dunn for these late last year and have been using them with great results. You can also see I'm using an
Optimum Optimum Double-Sided Rotary Adapter attached to a
2-3/4 inch Hook & Loop Rotary Backing Plate with these small rotary buffer pads.
The adapter acts as an extension which allows me to better see where the pads touching the paint as I buff and also works sometimes to give you enough clearance to buff into tight areas.
If it has paint... it gets polished... 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gardnerr2
Should I invest in this or better off waiting for now? I saw an article that Mike posted saying the FLEX L3403 is considered the "next step" in easiness of learning so I figured this would be achievable for me. |
I wrote that the first year I came to Autogeek from Meguiar's, since then the DeWALT 849X was introduced as was the Flex PE14, (see pics above), both of these are very good buffers for their CATEGORY.
Everyone is always comparing them like apples to apples when they are different categories, so depending on what you want to do choose the tool for the job.
If the majority of your work is going to be heavy duty correction work then get a full size for the reason I wrote here,
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
More reciprocating mass creates more torque
My personal thoughts are that if you're going to be buffing out sanding marks all day long or removing oxidation from large boats all day long then a full size rotary buffer would be a better choice.
The gears are bigger in size as are the rest of the components in a full size rotary buffer and I think having more reciprocating mass creates more torque and this is something you would want if you're going to be doing heavy compounding and polishing with full size pads, (8" and larger), 6 days a week.
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If you're only going to do surgical buffing then get a compact, lightweight rotary buffer.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
Apples to Oranges
Comparing the Flex PE14 to any of the full size DeWALT rotary buffers, or the Makita, or any other brand of full size rotary buffers is like comparing apples to oranges in that the Flex PE14 is a true compact rotary buffer and falls into the Compact Size category, while the DeWALT DWP849X falls into the Full Size category for rotary buffers.
Makita 9227C vs DeWALT DWP849X
A better comparison would be to compare the Makita 9227C with the DeWALT DWP849X as they are much more similar and my guess is that DeWALT introduced this new model to compete against the Makita rotary buffer. Both of these buffers, the Makita or the DeWALT would be great choices.
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If you don't own a rotary buffer and this will be your first purchase, then check out my article here,
DeWALT DWP849X vs Makita 9227C Rotary Buffers 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gardnerr2
My only worry is that I have absolutely no one that I can see work a rotary in person, and not sure if it is a tool that you can easily teach yourself to do it CORRECTLY..
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Getting some tips and working one on one with someone proficient with a rotary buffer is a lot better than figuring it out all on your own. I've seen people dis going to a class like I teach and all I can tell you is in my life the feedback I've always received is overwhelmingly positive.
Pictures & Comments from September 19th Detailing 102 Class Tanya is ready to learn the way of the rotary buffer...
First things first and that's learning the 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product... 
Tilt about 10 degrees and run the buffing pad over the bead at the 10 O'clock position with the 3 O'clock position of the pad just lightly against the paint... 
When you get to the end of the bead of product then lay the pad flat and begin compounding the section you're working. 
And now it's time for Tanya to show the guys how it's done...
Tanya sprays the Optimum Hyper-Polish onto the face of the Optimum Foam Polishing Pad... 
When using a rotary buffer you need to focus on the task at hand... she's got that down... 
Notice in the above and below pictures how Tanya's opted to hold the head of the polisher instead of the D-Handle? Holding the head, or in other words getting her grip closer to the transfer point of power to paint gives here more leverage over the tool and makes buffing easy... of course Hyper-Polish has an excellent buffing cycle and that makes it super easy to buff with...
Perfect technique 
Marketing... 
Short of going to a class on paint polishing that includes using a rotary buffer the next best thing is to do like Jim said and get a hood or trunk lid and
practice.
Then when you do start out on a real car don't start out on a
black Viper, pick some daily driver that no one will care if you make a little whoops...
Linear Mode
