Transition from DA to Rotary

[Mike.Phillips@Autogeek]

Having both a DA polisher like the Flex 3401 and a rotary buffer is a great combination as you can always do the grunt work with the rotary buffer and then do the last machine polishing step with the 3401 to ensure a swirl free finish.

Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer

And even machine apply the wax using the Flex 3401,


1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown!


Here I'm using a Meguiar's W9207 Softbuff Finishing pad on the 3.0 setting to apply the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0

[Dr Oldz]

Originally Posted by gardnerr2

Thanks for the help Jim. My only worry is that I might be doing it all wrong. Besides obvious scratches and blemishes, is there anything I should be looking for to tell me I am making a mistake before I inflict any damage to the paint..

I am checking out the Dewalt now, I appreciate the tip.

Honestly, your work on a scrap black panel will speak for itself. Just ALWAYS keep the polisher moving is the best advice I can offer. Just be sure to remove polishing oils and possible fillers prior to checking your work with a chemical stripper such as Car Pro Eraser. I also suggest trying to burn a section and a corner so you can guage what it takes to burn thru. Everyone has burned thru at one point if they are using a rotary long enough.............mind as well make your first burn thru on a scrap panel!

[gardnerr2]

Originally Posted by truckbutt

Done with a Dewalt 849X, M105, SF4000, 3M Ultrafine Polish, and DG 105/601:

Very impressive results

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

The DeWALT is a full size rotary buffer and the Flex 3403 is a compact size rotary buffer.

Thank you Mike for clearing this up for me...

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

The adapter acts as an extension which allows me to better see where the pads touching the paint as I buff and also works sometimes to give you enough clearance to buff into tight areas.



If the majority of your work is going to be heavy duty correction work then get a full size for the reason I wrote here, If you're only going to do surgical buffing then get a compact, lightweight rotary buffer.

I think I am leaning towards the Dewalt as it seems like it can do more overall. The lightness and size of the Flex is appealing, but it seems to me that the Dewalt can handle the small spaces well (especially with that spacer) and can get out the rough stuff as well... Thanks for all your help, 1 month ago I couldnt tell you what a DA polisher was to save my life, now I'm looking to getting my second machine...

And I have looked for detailing classes around Cincinnati but haven't found anything... I would absolutely love to come down to Florida but my work schedule doesn't allow that at all, especially in the summertime.


Thanks again for all the help and info,

Bob

[Nicholas@Autowerx]

Originally Posted by gardnerr2

I think I am leaning towards the Dewalt as it seems like it can do more overall. The lightness and size of the Flex is appealing, but it seems to me that the Dewalt can handle the small spaces well (especially with that spacer) and can get out the rough stuff as well... Thanks for all your help, 1 month ago I couldnt tell you what a DA polisher was to save my life, now I'm looking to getting my second machine...

You're going to love the 849X!

First Rotary + 849X = Mind Blown!

[truckbutt]

Originally Posted by Nicholas@Autowerx

You're going to love the 849X!

First Rotary + 849X = Mind Blown!

[Mike.Phillips@Autogeek]

Originally Posted by Dr Oldz

I also suggest trying to burn a section and a corner so you can guage what it takes to burn thru. Everyone has burned thru at one point if they are using a rotary long enough.............mind as well make your first burn thru on a scrap panel!

Very good advice.

Purposely learn what not to do so you'll know what not to do (on a junk panel)

Originally Posted by gardnerr2

Thanks for all your help, 1 month ago I couldnt tell you what a DA polisher was to save my life, now I'm looking to getting my second machine...

Congratulations, you'll love the DeWALT 849X or Bumblebee.

Originally Posted by gardnerr2

And I have looked for detailing classes around Cincinnati but haven't found anything... I would absolutely love to come down to Florida but my work schedule doesn't allow that at all, especially in the summertime.


Thanks again for all the help and info,

Bob

I'm working on getting a trashed car down here for a Rotary Buffer Live Broadcast on removing swirls.

We do these every other week so always watch the bottom of the forum homepage to see what's coming up.

[truckbutt]

Wasn't it just a year ago that the rotary was declared dead with the introduction of the Flex 3401, and MF pads for DA polishers? I guess video hasn't killed the radio star after all!

[Mike.Phillips@Autogeek]

Originally Posted by truckbutt

Wasn't it just a year ago that the rotary was declared dead with the introduction of the Flex 3401, and MF pads for DA polishers? I guess video hasn't killed the radio star after all!

Never by me, I'll stick to my guns on this one and go with the time-proven saying,

"The right tool for the job"

I'm going out to the garage right now to remove some sanding marks as I'm testing pads today and I'm using a rotary buffer.

Could I do it using another tool? Heck yeah, even my hand but the fastest and most effective way to remove 100% of sanding marks is with a wool pad on a rotary buffer.

Anyone that's ever sanded down and buffed out an entire car by themselves knows the job already takes long enough, why would you want to do it any slower method?

Now if a person doesn't own rotary buffer or doesn't choose to use a rotary buffer for their own reasons then "yes" it can be done using a Flex 3401 or a DA Polisher. That's personal preference.

As for me, I will still choose the RB for heavy chopping or the grunt work.


Cool old song too...

[master detailer]

Makita 9227C y has it stayed the same for so long ?Its the best when you make somthing good it stands the test of time. DeWALT have had 2 of them when I started out 8yrs ago. I loved it till after a year and it was done and was going to cost me 180.00 it fix it. Thats when I got my 1st makita and never looked back.Not to say that you will never have to fix any thing on a makita but you will never have to spend 180.00 to do it.and parts are easy to find and makita is so easy to work on your self.I own 4 of them have put on 25 ft 12ga cords on them. lol inside walls of cc boats s--- once or twice a year they bite ya biggest cost of a makita ? sunscreen you never stop working and thats a good thing and when you only have the one buffer its a must.

[truckbutt]

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

Never by me, I'll stick to my guns on this one and go with the time-proven saying,

"The right tool for the job"

I'm going out to the garage right now to remove some sanding marks as I'm testing pads today and I'm using a rotary buffer.

Could I do it using another tool? Heck yeah, even my hand but the fastest and most effective way to remove 100% of sanding marks is with a wool pad on a rotary buffer.

Anyone that's ever sanded down and buffed out an entire car by themselves knows the job already takes long enough, why would you want to do it any slower method?

Now if a person doesn't own rotary buffer or doesn't choose to use a rotary buffer for their own reasons then "yes" it can be done using a Flex 3401 or a DA Polisher. That's personal preference.

As for me, I will still choose the RB for heavy chopping or the grunt work.


Cool old song too...

I agree. If you follow the overall sentiment on the Forum however, I think it's safe to say that before the introduction of the Flex PE-14, 90% or more of the posts on Detailing 101 were related to discussion of DA machines and techniques. Since the introduction of the new Flex PE-14 and the Dewalt 849X more recently, there has been a shift to a more balanced discussion around when to use each tool, rotary or DA, and not whether to own one or the other. We're even having discussions now about when to use which rotary (Flex vs. Dewalt/Makita). Whoda thunk it?