Should I give up?

**GSKR** · 12-31-2016, 08:11 AM

Those swirl marks that he has are shallow and light.This is caused by micro dirt in the mitt with to much pressure applied.

**Don M** · 12-31-2016, 08:13 AM

Here is an example of a car that's NOT "perfect." It might look like it in the pic, but get to the 2-3 foot distance and there are some RIDS and other defects that I'm not going to frustrate myself trying to get out. To me, it looks amazing and a heck of a lot better than 99% + of the dark colored cars I see everyday. Along with learning the nuances of quality detailing, learn tolerance and acceptance too. It will get you far in more than just detailing.

**Don M** · 12-31-2016, 08:20 AM

Originally Posted by GSKR

Those swirl marks that he has are shallow and light.This is caused by micro dirt in the mitt with to much pressure applied.

In that case, I would recommend a good HEAVY rinsing before ever touching the car, heavy suds in the clean bucket, a rinse bucket AND an intensive blast with the hose to the mitt after EVERY pass, no more multiple passes and "flipping" the mitt. And more frequent rinsing while doing the wash so dislodged dirt is washed OFF the car instead of being allowed to get stuck back on the surface if the soapy water dries before being rinsed off.

**briarpatch** · 12-31-2016, 08:20 AM

Originally Posted by Ford Fest

Nothing noticable, but corrected just to be sure prior to coating. I've never used coating so I went with McKees. I think I applied it correctly.

Not sure what this is, sorry.

When washing I typically make a pass at the top of the panel working may way down. After making 3-4 passes, I flip the mit over and wash that same area again. Then I rinse the mit and start the process again. For example: 3-4 passes only covers the glass, rinse mit; then the door to the trim.

Here's a link to Garry Dean explaining his washing method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIm2JgXOBI8

**fightnews** · 12-31-2016, 08:32 AM

Originally Posted by Don M

In that case, I would recommend a good HEAVY rinsing before ever touching the car, heavy suds in the clean bucket, a rinse bucket AND an intensive blast with the hose to the mitt after EVERY pass, no more multiple passes and "flipping" the mitt. And more frequent rinsing while doing the wash so dislodged dirt is washed OFF the car instead of being allowed to get stuck back on the surface if the soapy water dries before being rinsed off.

thats what i do, i cover the whole car in foam then pressure wash it off before ever touching the car with a mitt. a lot of times thats all it needs

**GSKR** · 12-31-2016, 08:33 AM

That garry wash method would be ideal for light colored cars.Heres the promblem with that,takes to long and I see more risk involved with grit riding all over the car.Black you need light soap and lots of water.wipe and rinse at the same time will cure his promblems.The water will lift the dirt as you wipe.Need the sponge though it really helps.

**Just02896** · 12-31-2016, 09:11 AM

My advice would be to try a different coating. CQUK or Gloss Coat.

**dlc95** · 12-31-2016, 09:25 AM

Originally Posted by GSKR

I'm against tunnel washing as well it makes life easier sometimes.If you find the right tunnel wash that is clean and pretty new and less abrading cloths there not that bad.90 percent of scratching and marring comes from the prep guys slamming there wash brooms against the paint.

The tunnel car wash is moving towards foam brush technology, introduced by Ryko in 1996. These foam brushes do not absorb water, or allow dirt to permeate them. They're also more gentle to the finish of the vehicle. Recently, Belanger introduced the "SpinLite" series of equipment, which reduces brush speed drastically, while maintaining great cleaning efficiency.

Following a muddy car into a tunnel negates all of this though - unless you have an old school bristle system, which presents problems of it's own if not properly lubricated.

Every manufacturer, and old school operator insists that bristle brushes cleaned the best, and we're the most gentle to the finish.

**kevincwelch** · 12-31-2016, 09:52 AM

I wouldn't use the GD rinseless method as he shows it on a black car - the whole panel with a single quarter towel?!?!

I presoak like he does, but I use all quarters of a towel on a panel flipping and folding frequently so I have a clean surface. Basically one towel per panel but always a clean surface. 1100 GSM Korean towels. Takes longer, but no swirls. GD method as he shows it in that video seems too risky on a black car that is soiled...Even if little pressure is being applied. You're still dragging dirt.

Sent via my mobile device...

**WRAPT C5Z06** · 12-31-2016, 10:17 AM

Well, here is a fact and this was told to me by someone in the automotive paint industry. With the NEWER high end GM black vehicles, they're is using a softer clear on BLACK paint. You have very soft paint and just being black, you will see everything. I don't care how good you take care of ANY black vehicle, you're gonna see noticeable defects, especially on newer GM black paint. Either deal with it, or buy another color. Seriously.