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  1. #121
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    I ran across this post through a Google search on what to do about the paint on a used white 1992 Acura Integra I purchased about a year ago. With over spray on some of the trim, and paint flaking off the edges of a few panels revealing perfectly good factory paint underneath, it appears that it has had a quick and dirty single stage paint job. I'm assuming that it was cheap fix for oxidation that typically occurs on these cars on the roof. Anyway, the condition of the paint matches the descriptions here of being dry, especially seeing how it seems to absorb stains rather easily.

    This is my daily driver / beater car, but I’d like to it to still look neat and clean. When I bought it, it was terribly filthy, so after a wash I tried detailing clay for the first time with a Meguiar’s Smooth Surface Clay Kit. It did a decent job that lasted for quite a while, but this time around I’d like to see if I can do a little better with the process here of using detailing clay, multiple applications of Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze, and finishing with a carnauba wax.

    With a car that size, what amounts of product should I purchase? I think one clay bar will do the job, but how much clay lubricant, #7, and wax do I need just to give this a try? I also noticed that #7 has been on back order for the week or so that I’ve been lurking on this site.

  2. #122
    Super Member BillyJack's Avatar
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    First, welcome to the forum!
    You can buy #7 at many local auto parts stores if AutoGeek is temporarily out of stock. One 16 oz. bottle should be all you need. I believe Mike used more in the article, but that Lincoln was a BIG car. Same with the clay lube and wax- one will be more than enough. Most folks here, myself included, mix their own clay lube from a waterless wash, such as:Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products. It's a lot less expensive that way. Also, most clay bars are twice the size that you need. Break off a piece and flatten it to about a 3"-4" patty. Use one side and when it gets dirty, fold the dirty side in, flatten again and go to work with a fresh surface. Here's one of Mike's tutorials on using clay:http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ling-clay.html

    Bill

  3. #123
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by jankerson View Post

    Mike makes it look easy.... Because he is the best at what he does.

    I can tell you that it's NOT easy at all....

    It takes a lot of time... Days and days and could be over a week depending..... On ONE CAR...

    And a lot of the hardest work will be by hand..... And there is no way around it.....

    It's all about blood sweat and tears and the passion of bringing the paint back.

    Thanks for the compliment and I agree with you... rubbing out antique cars with original paint is all about the blood, sweat, tears and a whole lot of passion.




    Quote Originally Posted by jankerson View Post

    Yes, I have done it before, more than once and it's something that you really have to be committed to 100% to before even taking on a job like that.
    I agree with that too... and I'll add that you need to have the right mental approach to these types of projects...

    The Mindset of a Professional Detailer





    Quote Originally Posted by jankerson View Post

    And make sure the customer is really willing to pay for it because it's not going to be cheap.
    That can be a tuff nut to crack. Too often the people that own these types of cars don't get it. Sometimes they don't care about restoring the paint to show room new like "we" the detailers have the passion to do and sometimes the just don't see the value in polishing out the paint on their old car.


    Quote Originally Posted by jankerson View Post

    My hats off to Mike for showing the dedication and passion that is needed to achieve results like he did.
    I'm just passing on what I've learned from others over the years like from my mentors Jack Birkby and Bill Stuart. Two guys that were doing this before we were all born and while they are still with us you won't ever see them posting to a forum.

    I don't have a picture of Jack Birkby hand but here's one of Bill Stuart...


    Black Label PC on Fearless - John Mayer's 1935 Ford Cabriolet at SEMA in the Absorber Booth



    And I took a few pictures of Bill looking into the piant...








    Due credit where credit is due...



  4. #124
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by AC in OC View Post

    This 1st application is the hardest and then each subsequent step will go smoother and easier.

    I don't know the condition of your paint, but if it's heavily oxidized like his one definitely do multiple applications.

    And remember, you don't have to scrub really, really hard in a vigorous motion.

    It's more like rubbing a sore muscle - you want to use firm pressure, but not hurt yourself in the process.


    The bold part above... excellent advice. Just be sure to use a terry cloth wash cloth like I show in my pictures as it is the nap or tiny cotton loops of fiber that act as your abrasive to chew off the dead oxidized paint while forcing the oils in the #7 into the paint.



  5. #125
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    my progress so far 3 applications. I was sweating at 38 degrees

    the paint shines now. but I haven't been able to bring the car outside to confirm the quality due to shitty NE weather. I will probably do one more pass.



  6. #126
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Quote Originally Posted by ren20 View Post

    my progress so far 3 applications. I was sweating at 38 degrees

    the paint shines now.

    Did you take any "before" pictures?



  7. #127
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    I did, it's probably hard to tell the difference. the paint on my car wasn't as bad as the one other has posted. but up close, you can easily tell the paint was oxidated over the years. it was also dull.

    please note both before and after are without any kind of wax






  8. #128
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Good job!

    I can tell a difference. Sometimes a picture cannot fully share what you can see in person. It's still important to capture the before shots....





    For all the forum members and lurkers that will read this into the future.... read this BEFORE making a shiny spot on original paint.

    The power in the after shots is created in the before shots





  9. #129
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    Can we do this treatment every year? let's say in the winter. and with less applications than the very first time.

    would be too much? ultimate goal is to keep the car shine.

  10. #130
    Super Member BillyJack's Avatar
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    Re: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

    I've done it yearly on my El Camino since 2010, usually in late spring before cruise/show season. When you rub as much #7 in as I have over the years, you get a feel for whether the paint's soaking it up or it's just laying on top. I'll always do at least one overnight soak, followed by one more application. I'll then evaluate the finish for my product choice for the next step, using either M80 or M03, applied by machine. After that, I'll use some Collinite 915 to seal it all up then a beauty wax ( Dodo Juice, Meg's M26 or Pinnacle) during the season. Some may argue that the tedious M07 hand rubs may not be necessary every year for a garage queen, but IMO, my now 26 year old paint looks incrementally better every year.

    Bill

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