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Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
Originally Posted by kovalchuk71
I have read a lot of issues with DA and 105. Is this true? Is there a better more "friendly" DA Compound or will I be OK with the 105?
The new 105 is made for a Da and even use by hand .
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SELF BANNED
Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
Originally Posted by kovalchuk71
Ok thanks guys. Start out with White and move up if that doesnt work correct? Then go one down with the next step (205), and finish with 85rd and a blue pad (learned that from you Asphalt )
That would be a good approach but by the sounds of it you will need to start with 105, then once the defects are removed, use 205 to clean up and then 85rd to put the finishing touches on it.
Glad I can help, let me know if you need any help, just a pm away.
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Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
Originally Posted by kovalchuk71
Is there a better more "friendly" DA Compound or will I be OK with the 105?
Pick up Meguiars Ultimate Compound from any local auto parts store. It has just about the same cut as 105, and it's MUCH easier to work with. Follow UC with 205.
POST #26
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...d-chart-3.html
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Super Member
Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
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Super Member
Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
Originally Posted by kovalchuk71
Ok thanks guys. Start out with White and move up if that doesnt work correct? Then go one down with the next step (205), and finish with 85rd and a blue pad (learned that from you Asphalt )
Don't waste your time using M105 with a white pad. Go right to orange.
Here's a recent post from Kevin Brown (the guru of M105 / DA defect removal):
Originally Posted by Kevin Brown
The "KBM", as it is referred to by many, is simply a process which helps the pad work more efficiently. In a nutshell...
For defect removal, this method:
• Demands a thorough priming of the pad using the appropriate liquid for the task at hand
• Recommends that ample pressure be used, allowing the machine's action to efficiently transfer through the fom pad material and onto the paint surface, while still allowing random rotation of the pad (if rotation is slow or non-existent, either back off on user-applied pressure or try a different pad)
• Requires that the pad be kept clean (using a combination of microfiber toweling and compressed air if available) to the point of monotony
For final polishing the user should:
• Thoroughly prime a fresh, clean pad, let it sit for 2-3 minutes
• Minimize the amount of product used by running the pad-face across a microfiber towel
• Apply a minimum amount of polish
• Use ample speed and pressure, which is an amount that allows the pad to minimally rotate while the pad conforms to the panel being worked on
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Regular Member
Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
and to be completely honest, Im not sure if my car has been polished before. It was a certified mercedes so it might have by the dealer a long time ago. Will I still be OK with using 105? Im just afraid of the CC becoming too thin and failing. Maybe Im just a worry wort.
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SELF BANNED
Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
Originally Posted by kovalchuk71
and to be completely honest, Im not sure if my car has been polished before. It was a certified mercedes so it might have by the dealer a long time ago. Will I still be OK with using 105? Im just afraid of the CC becoming too thin and failing. Maybe Im just a worry wort.
You will be fine, it takes a lot to remove the clear coat.
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Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
Originally Posted by David Fermani
Don't waste your time using M105 with a white pad. Go right to orange.
Here's a recent post from Kevin Brown (the guru of M105 / DA defect removal):
Originally Posted by Kevin Brown
The "KBM", as it is referred to by many, is simply a process which helps the pad work more efficiently. In a nutshell...
For defect removal, this method:
• Demands a thorough priming of the pad using the appropriate liquid for the task at hand
• Recommends that ample pressure be used, allowing the machine's action to efficiently transfer through the fom pad material and onto the paint surface, while still allowing random rotation of the pad (if rotation is slow or non-existent, either back off on user-applied pressure or try a different pad)
• Requires that the pad be kept clean (using a combination of microfiber toweling and compressed air if available) to the point of monotony
For final polishing the user should:
• Thoroughly prime a fresh, clean pad, let it sit for 2-3 minutes
• Minimize the amount of product used by running the pad-face across a microfiber towel
• Apply a minimum amount of polish
• Use ample speed and pressure, which is an amount that allows the pad to minimally rotate while the pad conforms to the panel being worked on
For defect removal, lots of pressure. How about moving the polisher across the paint, slow or fast?
For final polishing, KB mentions "ample speed and pressure". When he talks about speed, is he referring to the speed the polisher is set on, or the speed of moving the polisher across the surface? Also, he states, "which is an amount that allows the pad to minimally rotate" With a Flex 3401 being forced rotation, that's not possible. Is this method only applicable with the non forced rotation DA's?
Last edited by WRAPT C5Z06; 01-30-2010 at 10:09 PM.
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Super Member
Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
Originally Posted by kovalchuk71
and to be completely honest, Im not sure if my car has been polished before. It was a certified mercedes so it might have by the dealer a long time ago. Will I still be OK with using 105? Im just afraid of the CC becoming too thin and failing. Maybe Im just a worry wort.
Listen to what Asphalt Rocket tells you. After you get started if you have any questions, just PM him. He will glady help you out and get you going if you get stuck.
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Re: How do I know if I need a compound?
Originally Posted by kovalchuk71
(its a PC 7424)
Is that the PC 7424 or the PC7424XP
Lately I find people leaving off the XP and there's a big difference between the ability of the two polishers.
If you have the first generation Porter Cable, that is the PC 7424 then stick with smaller pads as it doesn't have as much ability to keep the larger pads rotating.
Originally Posted by trichard
Listen to what Asphalt Rocket tells you. After you get started if you have any questions, just PM him. He will glady help you out and get you going if you get stuck.
Of better yet, post your questions to the forum where everyone gets the benefit of reading the questions and answers.
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