Clay question

[DrKnowledge]

Newbie here....glad to be part of the mix. just got a new mustang GT 5.0 oxford white. Brought it home and applied two coats of Liquid Glass which I've used for years and like. Saw one of the shows on VELO network about using plastic bag to feel smoothness of paint. Tried it and was blown away by the bumps on my surface. Tried using clay bar but the bumps are still there. should I wait for the liquid glass to wear off as it seems that may have put a surface over the bumps that I can still feel and clay doesn't work yet. Any help appreciated.

[jamesboyy]

Welcome to autogeek. ...yes you will still feel contamination though if a daily drivier dont worry about it much as long as its smooth to the bare hand your good also by clay barring you removed your lsp/liquid glass therefore I suggest you apply protection back to that area I also suggest you buy some iron x to remove the iron deposits that clay cant remove

[axel06]

I would wait sounds like u sealed what ever was on the paint i alwsys do the baggie test before anything

[Crispy]

Here is a good way to get a smooth surface. First of course is a good wash. Do section at a time, not whole car. Baggy test. Clay with lots of Detailer until clay does not grab paint (I use a Speedy Prep Towel but any Claying product will do). Once the Clay glides across the paint use a medium strength Polish and a light cutting pad to remove remainder of contaminates. Baggy test. If smooth you are done, if not polish again. Now apply your sealant and then Last Step Product and done deal. Move on to next section.

[FUNX650]

Now apply your sealant and then Last Step Product and done deal. Move on to next section.

@Crispy:

IMHO:
•A Sealant is a Last Step Product.

So:
•If your Sealant isn't your Last Step Product...
-what is?

•TIA.


Bob

[Crispy]

I like to wax my car, so I use Collinite 845 as my LSP. I use the Optimum Poli-Seal first, then Opti-Seal and then wax over that. It's probably overkill but I am in the process of seeing how well this holds up this Spring/Summer. Last year it was Optimum Gloss Coat and Opti-Seal and it did well during the Summer but Winter was hard on it and required a complete cleaning this past week. After Polishing I applied Gloss Coat, Poli-Seal, Opti-Seal and then the Collinite. That should do the trick going into next winter.

[Mike Phillips]

Saw one of the shows on VELOCITY network about using plastic bag to feel smoothness of paint.

Tried it and was blown away by the bumps on my surface.

That would be the Baggie Test. Full article here,

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants


I know I've shown this on My Classic Car with Dennis Gage on both car paint and window glass but at this moment I'm only finding this episode but the process is the same...

Tried using clay bar but the bumps are still there.

Claying doesn't always remove 100% of all contaminants. This is mostly noticeable if you do the baggie test AFTER claying.

This is why if it's important to me and the car I'm working on to ensure 100% of the contaminants are removed I'll use the Flex 3401 with a Medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad and lots of lube. Just posted this to another thread,






The paint on the above car was mechanically decontaminated using a Medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad on the Flex 3401 and then machine polished twice and then machine waxed.

How to use the Flex 3401 for Show Car Detailing

should I wait for the liquid glass to wear off as it seems that may have put a surface over the bumps that I can still feel and clay doesn't work yet.

Any help appreciated.

Besides detailing clay there are these options,

Nanoskin Towel
Nanoskin Wash Mitt
Nanoskin Autoscrub pad like you see above. IT can also be used on tools like the Porter Cable 7424XP etc.


Nanoskin products


My personal practice is I don't use Nanoskin products unless I'm already planning on doing at least ONE machine polishing step afterwards to remove any potential marring for the decontaminating process.

[08ChevImpala]

That would be the Baggie Test. Full article here,

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants


I know I've shown this on My Classic Car with Dennis Gage on both car paint and window glass but at this moment I'm only finding this episode but the process is the same...

Autogeek Garage - Glass Cleaning (Autogeek) -...

Claying doesn't always remove 100% of all contaminants. This is mostly noticeable if you do the baggie test AFTER claying.

This is why if it's important to me and the car I'm working on to ensure 100% of the contaminants are removed I'll use the Flex 3401 with a Medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad and lots of lube. Just posted this to another thread,






The paint on the above car was mechanically decontaminated using a Medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad on the Flex 3401 and then machine polished twice and then machine waxed.

How to use the Flex 3401 for Show Car Detailing









Besides detailing clay there are these options,

Nanoskin Towel
Nanoskin Wash Mitt
Nanoskin Autoscrub pad like you see above. IT can also be used on tools like the Porter Cable 7424XP etc.


Nanoskin products


My personal practice is I don't use Nanoskin products unless I'm already planning on doing at least ONE machine polishing step afterwards to remove any potential marring for the decontaminating process.

Mike,
I have never clay barred before, so for a first timer, do you recommend Nanoskin system or clay bar system?

[Odisious]

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ml#post1235815

There is always this option!

[trekkeruss]

I have never clay barred before, so for a first timer, do you recommend Nanoskin system or clay bar system?

I'm not Mike, but I don't think it really matters. They are both easy to use and work well.