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Machine vs Hand for beginner
Hello,
since I am going deeper and deeper in to detailing, as I read through the forum, I was thinking of making the effort to go all the way and buy a polishing machine as well.
Question is, this is my first attempt at detailing so do I go by hand or with a DA polisher? If I go with DA machine, then what are your recommendations for a beginner?
Thanks
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Super Member
Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
Machine is a great way since you get a more even spread of the product but I suggest to start on some practice maybe on some really old car.....I know I sound like an a-hole but I tested on my moms old car before I moved on to better cars.
"I don't consider myself to be the best.. and I don't like compliments.. they distract me." - Jimi Hendrix
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Super Member
Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
IMO the DA's that AG sells are pretty user friendly. You can actually do a lot of damage by hand just as much as you can on a DA like say the Porter Cable.
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Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
I would go for the PC7424XP but unfortunately I live in Europe and as I read I have to have a transformer....so I am looking for something I can use in Europe...
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Super Member
Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
I'm not familiar with machines and transformers outside of the U.S., but someone here could possibly help you out or you can always give Autogeek a call. They know tons
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Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
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Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
Originally Posted by Jaap
I would go for the PC7424XP but unfortunately I live in Europe and as I read I have to have a transformer....so I am looking for something I can use in Europe...
AutoGeek sells a 230v Flex 3401 which works without needing a bulky transformer.
FLEX XC 3401 VRG 230 Volt Orbital Polisher, international model FLEX XC3401 Buffer
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Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
Originally Posted by Jaap
Question is, this is my first attempt at detailing so do I go by hand or with a DA polisher?
You can polish and wax a car by hand and get very good results. If you need to remove actual swirls and scratches then you really need to move up to machine polishing and that's because the paints now days are too hard to make it practical to try to remove them by hand.
I taught "hand polishing" for years and two things,
1. It requires a LOT more skill and technique, not to mention muscle to do it and from what I've seen in my life the majority of people simply do not have the skill, muscle or patience to rub a clearcoat finish out by hand.
2. Whenever I demonstrate how to work by hand, people always want to skip it and buy a polisher.
That's the facts Jack....
Originally Posted by Jaap
If I go with DA machine, then what are your recommendations for a beginner?
Thanks
The Porter Cable 7424XP is the easiest tool to learn how to use AND MASTER and in the right hands with the right pads and the right products you can create truly amazing results.
The Porter Cable dual action sander, then introduced in the late 1980's as a Paint Polisher is the tool that we can all credit for transitioning the masses from working by hand to working by machine.
Since that time, a lot of companies have knocked off the Porter Cable design so you should be able to find one that works on your electrical current. At this time AG doesn't not sell a 220v dual action polisher.
We do sell the Flex 3401 in 220v so that is an option.
Most people that start out with a Porter Cable, if they find they are going to be in this for the long run they upgrade to a Flex 3401.
It's a great tool and it will never let you down.
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Super Member
Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
For beginners the a Porter Cable is a perfect machine to start out with, I still use it even though I have several machines, very dependable too.
Just make sure to buy a 5" backing plate along with some Flat Lake Country pads or your choice of pads.
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Super Member
Re: Machine vs Hand for beginner
I wonder why it's so difficult to remove defects by hand (I've tried).
Why is CC tough as nails when rubbing it with an abrasive polish and hand polishing pad but at the same time it can be marred by one wipe of a poor quality MF?
In other words, why are defects so much easier to put in than to take out?
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