What next?

[marathonveloste]

I am going to tell you guys every little detail I did so for in hopes to help me, thanks everyone!

1.) 2 bucket wash with grit guards
2.) Dried Car
3.) Clayed
4.) m105 with Lake Country Orange Pad (I have done 1,2,3,4 so far)
5.)?, I am lost here. Wash again
6.)Dry Car
7.)Xmt 360
Done

Now here is what I have for the exterior: m105, m205, green, white, blue, orange pads(all lake country), XMT 360, Collinite 476s, Iron-X, Duragloss Aquawax, Stoners Invisible Glass. If you guys have any questions feel free to ask

[jamesboyy]

I would go with the white with m205 cause it will polish out a little more defect/ make the paint flawless in a sense then if you wanna wash again you can

[mwoolfso]

I would go with the white with m205 cause it will polish out a little more defect/ make the paint flawless in a sense then if you wanna wash again you can

+1

Adding to this feedback.... M105 being a compound will likely introduce a haze and/or some marring. A finishing polish like M205 with a finishing pad will clean that up.

As for inserting XMT 360 into the process, typically you either compound/polish --OR-- apply an AIO. In your process, you would likely work against the finishing polish step. You can try to replace M205 with XMT360 and use that as the finishing polish and sealant. What you will find is not very good durability. Add a spray wax like Optimum Car Wax and you would be set for 3-5 months easily.

[Mike Phillips]

In the quote below, blue text are my comments...

As for inserting XMT 360 into the process, typically you either compound/polish and apply a non-cleaning wax or sealant.
--OR--

apply an AIO. --> which is a one-step cleaner/wax.

So

M105 --> M205 --> non-cleaning wax or sealant.


If you have a daily driver that you want to clean-up but don't want to spend all day doing three steps to it, that's where you would use the XMT 360 as it is a one-step cleaner/wax.

It will do three functions in one step.

1. Clean
2. Polish
3. Seal

When new to machine buffing....ALWAYS do a TEST SPOT before buffing out the entire car. I explain why here,


How To Do a Test Spot
(and why it's so important)

[marathonveloste]

Thanks guys for all the feedback, I don't know where I would be without you guys! Anyways, here are my steps in the order I plan on doing it now.

.) 2 bucket wash with grit guards
2.) Dried Car
3.) Clayed
4.) m105 with Lake Country Orange Pad (I have done 1,2,3,4 so far)
5.) m205 with Lake Country White Pad
6.) Wash Vehicle again
7.) Apply Collinite 476s
Done?

[davidg]

Use an IPA after polishing. Saves time and money.

[mwoolfso]

Thanks guys for all the feedback, I don't know where I would be without you guys! Anyways, here are my steps in the order I plan on doing it now.

.) 2 bucket wash with grit guards
2.) Dried Car
3.) Clayed
4.) m105 with Lake Country Orange Pad (I have done 1,2,3,4 so far)
5.) m205 with Lake Country White Pad
6.) Wash Vehicle again
7.) Apply Collinite 476s
Done?

Use an IPA after polishing. Saves time and money.

+1.... So #6 could be IPA or a Wash.

I would consider adding Collinite 915 as a #8 should you find you want to amp-up the gloss.

[KillaCam]

Also no need to dry if you're going to clay it.

[cardaddy]

Thanks guys for all the feedback, I don't know where I would be without you guys! Anyways, here are my steps in the order I plan on doing it now.

.) 2 bucket wash with grit guards
2.) Dried Car
3.) Clayed
4.) m105 with Lake Country Orange Pad (I have done 1,2,3,4 so far)
5.) m205 with Lake Country White Pad
6.) Wash Vehicle again
7.) Apply Collinite 476s
Done?

If you're claying, you can actually leave a bit of soap on the car and use that for your lubricant. Saves a bit of time and money there. (Just keep that clay sealed in a container of it's own.)

Yes, 205 and a white pad is a great way to pick up where you left off. You can also use 205 with a blue pad for a little finer finish.

You DO need to do an Eraser or IPA wipe down before you start with 205. Then after you finish with 205 you'll want to do it again. This will remove any polishing oils left on the surface so you can see what you may have missed. It'll also remove fillers that are in a lot of compounds and polishes, (just that 105 and 205 don't tend to be loaded with them like a lot are).

Personally, unless you have dusting like mad everywhere I'd not worry about washing before polishing, or after for that matter. I'd apply M21 2.0 (or Colli 476), let it cure overnight and then if you feel it needs washing do it then. Blow dry it of course.

Then top it with Aquawax, using it as a drying agent and it'll be super slick.