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Re: Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
Part Deux with my little Kia Spectra, as I just got done with a in-out detail on it, and am hitting the shower to clean up and cool off after this post.
All four wheels/tires were removed, one at a time, washed in and out, wiped dry, I had painted the wheels about 2 months ago with a Krylon gloss black, but never protected them with anything, so again, on went the DP Paint Coating on Wheels-Caps, and Tires were done with Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel in and out. All looking nice!
The car was not really dirty, just a bit dusty, and did a simple wipe down with plain water, and bucket with Grit Guard. Didn't want to hose the car down with water, because of the coating just applied on the wheels.
Paint surface still felt quite slick after the wipe down. That's a good sign.
I wanted to "top" this coating with something, just for the heck of it, more of an experiment actually, and have a slew of "easy" AG Goodies I could've used, Opti-Seal, UPGP, WGDGLS, DG Aquawax, Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detailer came to mind quickly.
I settled on WGDGLS WOWA Sealant. It spread ultra easy, and quite far with a MF Applicator, vanished very easily upon the paint, must've took me a total of 15 minute's time, and looked very nice. There was no odd interactions, the WGDGLS went on great, and just needed a quick walk around to eliminate-level the very few high spots. Probably used a dozen spritzes for the entire car if that.
The downside is, nope, WGDGLS is not quite as slick as DP Paint Coating.
The finish looks just as even, and as lustrous-glossy though, and apparently no harm no foul with this WOWA, and probably other WOWA's.
The paint is looking mighty fine considering it's a 2001 vehicle that sits outside 24/7 in desert summer heat.
Mark
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Re: Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
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Super Member
Re: Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
Hello Mike-All,
Contrary to one of my earlier posts in this thread, where I lay claim to doing exactly like you had done, there was a bit of information excluded, that I did not have the DP Paint Coating Prep in my arsenal, I had "dumbly" omitted it from my order.
This omission of the Paint Coating Prep product could've influenced the application in some ways, and while not yet known at this point could also perhaps influence the longevity of the DP Paint Coating?
Prior to DP Coating application, which was about a week ago, I simply washed the car, Clayed entire Car, did a relatively quick DA Polishing with Menzerna SF4500 with a 5.5" Red LC Flat Pad (yes I chose a Red Pad, just something very mild with really no cut) then wiped the car down with CarPro Eraser prior to Coating Application.
I'm not actually sure just how well I removed previous LSP's, since there were some really durable Sealants, like Menz Powerlock, WGDGPS 3.0, and various WOWA's on it?
I figured it would be wise to not touch the car with anything for a good number of days to let the Paint Coating product fully cure upon the paint.
Mark
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Super Member
Re: Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
Mike (and others)--Does this make sense??
If the DP coating will last up to 2 years on it's own would it hold up longer if treated like an additional layer of CC and always protected by a layer of sealant or wax??
I know that the added LSP would hide the properties of the coating, but I'm thinking of it as a base coat on my wife's non metallic black Golf for the added protection against marring then topping with my LSP of choice to get the look I'm after.
What do you think???
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Re: Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
Originally Posted by MarkD51
I figured it would be wise to not touch the car with anything for a good number of days to let the Paint Coating product fully cure upon the paint.
Mark
Thanks for the follow-up... hope you don't mind I inserted your pictures...
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Re: Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
Originally Posted by ski2
Mike (and others)--Does this make sense??
If the DP coating will last up to 2 years on it's own
would it hold up longer if treated like an additional layer of CC and always protected by a layer of sealant or wax??
Good question and actually a real common question that relates to the topic of...
Layering
Two points but I'm sure others have their own opinion...
1. There's a thing called
More info in my article here, specifically post #8
Sacrificial Barrier Coating = The purpose of a wax or synthetic paint sealant
(I forgot I even wrote the above)
2. Besides all the science and what-not... most of us, myself included "do something" to the paint on our cars so often that it doesn't really matter if you're adding more and more protection because next week you'll probably test or use something else out on your car.
Point in fact...
After I bought my new truck we buffed it out using Pinnacle products. See here,
1987 Chevy 4x4 Monster Truck "Before & After" Pictures
After that I used all types of spray detailers and spray waxes to maintain the results and the paint always looks awesome.
But... I wanted to test out Bouncer's Capture the Rapture plus test out some new products, so I "did something" to the paint again.
Bouncers Capture the Rapture Monster Truck Detail
And is the norm for Autogeek, we now have even more new stuff in that I want to try out. So while right now my truck looks show car ready, truth is this Saturday I'm going to put something else on it...
Heck, I might even put some Detailer's Paint Coating on a section of the bed.
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Super Member
Re: Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
Can you use MF applicators to apply the coatings also or is foam the only way to go? I like using a square MF applicator to apply UPGP, wondering if it can be used for the DP coatings or will it have a negative effect on the application such as using more product.
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Re: Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
Originally Posted by Meticulous-Detail
Can you use MF applicators to apply the coatings also or is foam the only way to go? I like using a square MF applicator to apply UPGP, wondering if it can be used for the DP coatings or will it have a negative effect on the application such as using more product.
You can. Kind of a personal preference thing. I agree that a MF pad will do a very good job of applying and spreading out an even coating.
The problem I "think" that most people agree on is that any type of thicker pad, like a foam pad wrapped with microfiber will tend to want to absorb a lot of your costly elixir.
If you look at products like GTechniq, CarPro, etc. they have you applying their coatings using thin thin thin little applicator pads as this limits the amount of wasted product seeped into the actual applicator pad.
So the answer to your question is "yes" you can apply a coating with a microfiber applicator pad but you might end up loosing a lot of product via absorption into the pad. If that's okay with you then that's the part I mean about personal preference in my second sentence.
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Super Member
I still don't understand the desire to top any coating. If you don't like the "look" of the coating then don't waste your money buying one by putting a wax over it.
There are many waxes and sealants now that look great and can give you months if not close to a year in some cases with sealants.
Then you factor in spray-on booster waxes and sealants that are put on after every wash topping the topping that's topping the coating ..Jeeze.
In my day we didn't have the Internet, iPods,iPads, or smart phones....but we had some really bad-azz cars.
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