Need some help choosing CG compound(s)

[4ord]

Hey guys,

Im looking a stepping up from the consumer line of meguiars compound and polishes, as I am running out of them (finally) and have a pretty big detail lined up. I was checking out the chemical guys website, and found they have a great deal on their "CUT" line of polishes, however, the new "V' series of polishes is also on sale. The "cut" line up is at a far far more attractive price though. Anyone have experience with the "cut" lineup? I like how it is free of silicons and filling oils (unlike the megs "ultimate" lineup), but I dont want to waste money on it if it isnt so great. I am looking at buying all 3 grades (1.0, 1.5, and 2.0), since they are only $10 a bottle. Also, does anyone know if the "cut" line is approved for DA use, or if its just meant for rotary use? ANY advice on the "cut" or "V" lines of chemical guys polishes would be great!

also, for reference, I'll need something to aid in the removal of these 240 grit sanding marks, thanks to a not so great attempt the PO made to repair the paint (which involved dry sanding the paint, and rattle canning over it )

you can kind of see what I mean here



there are also some holograms on the hood where the same PO decided to try and "correct" the hood using a headlight restoration kit

and to conclude the detailing nightmare this car is, the PO tried to paint the window moldings using some black paint and a standard paintbrush, leaving some nice blotches of back paint on the roof of the car. It would be great if the compound can aid in get those problems removed for me.

Any advice on fixing the aforementioned problems would be GREATLY appreciated, and Ill give you an internet high five if you can help me out!!!


Here's a pic of the entire car, in case anyone was curious- its a '93 LX with a modded 5.0. and no, its not the one mentioned in my signature.

[Italian Guy]

From my experience to take out sanding marks you are going to need a rotary buffer unless some of the veterans want to chime in with there expertise. As far as the chemical compounds never used them.

[Midnight1700]

Originally Posted by Italian Guy

From my experience to take out sanding marks you are going to need a rotary buffer unless some of the veterans want to chime in with there expertise. As far as the chemical compounds never used them.

You can remove sanding marks without a rotary. Using the right DA, Pads, and compounds, you can accomplish scratch removal and with better results.

[Italian Guy]

Originally Posted by Midnight1700

You can remove sanding marks without a rotary. Using the right DA, Pads, and compounds, you can accomplish scratch removal and with better results.

No matter the grit number of the sanding mark? From the pictures they looked pretty bad that's why I figured a rotary would be quicker, but thanks for the tip.

[Midnight1700]

Originally Posted by Italian Guy

No matter the grit number of the sanding mark?

I take out sanding marks from 2000 and up. Sometimes 1500 if the clear is soft. I've been know to use the DA to remove scratches caused by the owner of the car using the Green Sctoch Brite pads to remove bird residue. With a DA, there is less chance of buring thru the paint, but I would highly recommend a paint guage when doing ANY Paint Corrections.

[swanicyouth]

I don' have any experience with CG compounds / polishes. I saw that sale also. I'm guessing they are on sale
because they are older technology type abrasives.

Just a thought, but polishes and compounds isn't where I would try to save some money. Prices on Meg's and Optimum isn't so bad. At least you know your getting good modern abrasive technology.

[4ord]

Originally Posted by swanicyouth

I don' have any experience with CG compounds / polishes. I saw that sale also. I'm guessing they are on sale
because they are older technology type abrasives.

Just a thought, but polishes and compounds isn't where I would try to save some money. Prices on Meg's and Optimum isn't so bad. At least you know your getting good modern abrasive technology.

I think they are diminishing abrasives. The description reads- "

• An aggressive polish that begins working like a compound starting at 1000 grit and breaking down to 50 center point micro-polish (very thin)
• As buffing continues the unique abrasive system breaks down to a super fine polish. Works especially well on clear coats."

[SonOfOC]

The CG line of polishes and compounds are very good. Great they are not! Don't know if OP made a typo with he "240 Grit" marks, but no compound will remove those marks, unless you plan on spending days compounding.

You will need to do a few stages of wet sanding before compound and polishing.

[4ord]

Originally Posted by SonOfOC

The CG line of polishes and compounds are very good. Great they are not! Don't know if OP made a typo with he "240 Grit" marks, but no compound will remove those marks, unless you plan on spending days compounding.

You will need to do a few stages of wet sanding before compound and polishing.

No typo with the 240. And I am aware I will need to wet sand. Don't know if I am going to touch that or not, as the PO didn't spray clearcoat over the spray bomb job. That may be a job for the body shop.

[4ord]

Bump! Any input on the compounds? Anyone?