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Originally Posted by Hoytman
I'll tell you what it is...it's gorgeous!!!!!!! |
The grunt work was all done by my class...
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Originally Posted by Hoytman Mr. Phillips,
How long were your beads of products? |
About the length and size of a standard pencil.
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Originally Posted by Hoytman Were you still trying to work in a 2x2 area where possible? |
More of tackling sections as defined by the body panels and the curves, edges or raised body lines. Remember my saying,
The Yoda Technique for buffing out a car
Because some panels are not large and flat, especially on modern cars which are aerodynamic and for this reason very curved, then you use what I call the
Yoda Technique, that is you,
"Let the panel be your guide" 
(When you read the above sentence, use your best Yoda impersonation)
So of course, if you're working a long, thin panel then you might best work that panel by only going in one direction and doing your best to overlap your passes.
Basically whatever it takes to get the job done.
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Originally Posted by Hoytman
What was the amount of product used when edging? |
Less than the pencil example. Often times what I'll do and what I demonstrated in the class is I will lay down a bead of product on/near the edge to be buffed and then spread it around to lubricate the surface and ensure abrasives in the area, especially curved body panels.
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Originally Posted by Hoytman How long did you work each product?
Till visuals or experience told me the defects were removed and before we would get to a "Dry Buff" situation.
Working with the rotary is a goal of mine and I've had some experience on gel-coat, but haven't gotten to use it on paint. I feel much more confident now after seeing proper technique. I wish this had been on video. |
Yancy is busy with other hot projects. I'll be demonstrating rotary buffer techniques next week in Evansville and also this Thursday on the swirled-out 1970 Cuda.
Learn How To Machine Polish a 1970 Cuda with a 440 Big Block!