My new car and the ultimate detail

[TrKent]

Hello everyone,
I have pre-ordered a 2013 Focus ST in a color called Tangerine Scream:


I have already asked the dealership to not touch the car when it comes in, so no DISO. This is not going to be a daily driver, it will only be a weekend/show car stored in a temperature controlled garage.
This is what I would like to do to my car, your input is greatly appreciated.

First off, the background of the paint: this is one of Ford's tri-coat metallic colors and also uses Ford's extremely hard Ceramic clear coat. I know this car will come with a LOT of orange peel. Every Ford I have seen with the ceramic clear has quite a bit of orange peel. I have also read that Ford does not want you removing more than 3 microns from the paint for fear of clearcoat failure. (or at least failure of the ceramic benefits)

I would like to wetsand the car to remove at least some of the orange peel. Perhaps only with 5000 grit and no more than 3000. Is there any reason why this wouldn't be a good idea?

After wet sanding I will bring the paint back with either my Flex 3401 or, if it arrives in time, a Rupes LHR 21e. If i'm using the Flex I will progress through the polishes this way: 1500, 2500, 3000, 4000, 4500. I will also polish the headlights/taillights to bring up the clarity some

Then, when the paint enhancement is finished, I will use Gtechniq products to coat everything. I plan on 3 layers of C1 on the paint, 3 layers of G1 on all the glass, 3 layers of C5 on the wheels, 1 layer of C4 on all trim, and then EXO overtop of all of that. For the interior: C6 (matte dash) for all interior plastics and trim, i1 for the floor mats and all the carpet, and L1 for the leather. Engine bay and exhaust will be coated with EXO.

Here is a picture of what I am trying to achieve:



Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? I have never wet sanded before, so if i do decide to go that route I will have to get some panels and practice until i feel confident with it. the car won't be here until mid to late october.

[D.R.]

I had a SVT focus and loved it. I would love to drive an ST.

Check out this thread. Disclaimer: i'm not a pro detailer...
SHINE IT LIKE YOU MEAN IT! Shelby Cobra meets the Microfiber DA system!

[TrKent]

Originally Posted by D.R.

I had a SVT focus and loved it. I would love to drive an ST.

Check out this thread. Disclaimer: i'm not a pro detailer...
SHINE IT LIKE YOU MEAN IT! Shelby Cobra meets the Microfiber DA system!

The SVT focus is an awesome car, I have had 3 of them. This will be my first brand new car. Thanks for the link, that is a really good write up!

The one thing i'm afraid of is removing too much of the ceramic clear coat or at least its benefits.

[RoadRageDetail]

Removing more than .2 microns (5 MIL) is where you run risks of removing the ceramic layer thus leaving the clear very soft. This would be done very quickly with 1500. You should probably start quite a bit higher (2500 at least) before diving deeper, and constantly monitor your work. Removing more than .3 microns (7.5 MIL) will void your finish warranty with Ford.

I'd give your little project a great deal of thought before attacking your brand new car with 1500 grit sandpaper, and possibly voiding your warranty and opening up pandora's box - which could lead you down a road full of headaches trying to maintain your finish.

[g26er]

He said 5000 and at most 3000. I think the 1500 was referring to the polish.

Edit: never mind... I think you're talking about the polish. Thought you were referring to the paper. Sorry...

[FUNX725]

Originally Posted by TrKent

Ford's extremely hard Ceramic clear coat.

Also...It's very thin!

I know this car will come with a LOT of orange peel. Every Ford I have seen with the ceramic clear has quite a bit of orange peel.

I have also read that Ford does not want you removing more than 3 microns from the paint for fear of clearcoat failure. (or at least failure of the ceramic benefits)

I've heard that this should be .3 mils (~7-8microns)...Maybe I heard wrong.

I would like to wetsand the car to remove at least some of the orange peel. Perhaps only with 5000 grit and no more than 3000. Is there any reason why this wouldn't be a good idea?

Factory baked-on CC is very thin! Not saying sanding can't be done...That's the easy part.
Getting the sanding scratches out may be a tough row to hoe, though.


After wet sanding I will bring the paint back with either my Flex 3401 or, if it arrives in time, a Rupes LHR 21e. If i'm using the Flex I will progress through the polishes this way: 1500, 2500, 3000, 4000, 4500. I will also polish the headlights/taillights to bring up the clarity some

Then, when the paint enhancement is finished, I will use Gtechniq products to coat everything. I plan on 3 layers of C1 on the paint, 3 layers of G1 on all the glass, 3 layers of C5 on the wheels, 1 layer of C4 on all trim, and then EXO overtop of all of that. For the interior: C6 (matte dash) for all interior plastics and trim, i1 for the floor mats and all the carpet, and L1 for the leather. Engine bay and exhaust will be coated with EXO.

Here is a picture of what I am trying to achieve:



Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? I have never wet sanded before, so if i do decide to go that route I will have to get some panels and practice until i feel confident with it. the car won't be here until mid to late october.

Number one must-have on your list of "tools if you plan on sanding: EPTG!!!

-I personally no longer wet/damp sand on factory baked-on CC.
Most vehicles have orange peel from the factory. I've learned to live with it, because:
Within that orange peel lies the true essence and functions that are the characteristics of CC itself...
The warnings issued by FoMoCo in regards to amount of CC removal should be, IMO, heeded.

That's just me, though.

-Since you've stated you've never wetsanded before,
I'll suggest that you read and study each and every word;
and, look real hard at the photos in the following Mike Phillips article:

Removing Orange Peel & Sanding Marks with the Griot's ROP and the Wolfgang Twins

Just a few heartfelt suggestions...Nothing personal.



Bob

[TrKent]

Ok, if I skip the wetsanding, how much gloss would be added by using Menzerna 1500, 2500 and 4000?

Transmitted from my WiFi-enabled telegraph.

[flamed03vert]

If you are trying to acheive the smoothest finish possible maybe have the car re-cleared over the factory clear and then wet sand and buff?

[FUNX725]

Originally Posted by TrKent

Ok, if I skip the wetsanding, how much gloss would be added by using Menzerna 1500, 2500 and 4000?

Transmitted from my WiFi-enabled telegraph.

Just another suggestion:
(I know you're all atwitter, awaiting the arrival of your new "glitter")

-Upon receipt of your new vehicle; check the painted panels with your:
"detailing-lights" for imperfections, if any;
then, perform the obligatory: Test Spot.


-Good Luck!! (Hopefully your new vehicle will be sprayed on a Tuesday or Wednesday)



Bob

[RMM]

Originally Posted by RoadRageDetail

Removing more than .2 microns (5 MIL) is where you run risks of removing the ceramic layer thus leaving the clear very soft. This would be done very quickly with 1500. You should probably start quite a bit higher (2500 at least) before diving deeper, and constantly monitor your work. Removing more than .3 microns (7.5 MIL) will void your finish warranty with Ford.

I'd give your little project a great deal of thought before attacking your brand new car with 1500 grit sandpaper, and possibly voiding your warranty and opening up pandora's box - which could lead you down a road full of headaches trying to maintain your finish.

You mixed up mil and microns: the fumed silica is in the top 5 or 6 microns (around 0.2 mil). Removing it will make the underlying clearcoat very soft indeed.

To the OP: if you have never done it, you should practice before, alone or supervised (preferably). Read the two following threads:

KDS Wet Sand Training - Detailing World

KDS "Wet Sand Training" (finishing what I've started) - Detailing World

That VW turned out just great!