Steps Between Steps

[Bluejay3]

Just got into detailing last winter with my new BMW so the job has been a piece of cake making an almost showrrom finihs into showroom. However I just takled my first real challenge: volunterring to try to restore life to my daughter's 2000 Mustang which has been HIGHLY neglected so I was back to square one knowledgewise.
After washing and claying, I used Meguiars 205 with a Porters to try to cut through the heavy oxidation and find the real paint. After finishing the pass off 205 I found that the residue was still quite heavy. Call me lazy or uneducated but I decided to go right with a pass using the 105. You could see it was getting through the 205 residue but left a pretty fair amount itself. As the long day got longer I went with some Meguiars Ultimate Wax. Now we're getting somewhere as I can start seeing some sheen. Sure enough after wiping away the haze, not too bad of a finish after all. Especially compared to the way it came in.

My question is what was the right thing to do between the 205 and 105 and the 105 and the Wax to remove the heavy residue left over? IPA rubdown? Other? Wishing I took some pix as it went for reference but new camera doesn't arrive until next week

[Flash Gordon]

Originally Posted by Bluejay3

Just got into detailing last winter with my new BMW so the job has been a piece of cake making an almost showrrom finihs into showroom. However I just takled my first real challenge: volunterring to try to restore life to my daughter's 2000 Mustang which has been HIGHLY neglected so I was back to square one knowledgewise.
After washing and claying, I used Meguiars 205 with a Porters to try to cut through the heavy oxidation and find the real paint. After finishing the pass off 205 I found that the residue was still quite heavy. Call me lazy or uneducated but I decided to go right with a pass using the 105. You could see it was getting through the 205 residue but left a pretty fair amount itself. As the long day got longer I went with some Meguiars Ultimate Wax. Now we're getting somewhere as I can start seeing some sheen. Sure enough after wiping away the haze, not too bad of a finish after all. Especially compared to the way it came in.

My question is what was the right thing to do between the 205 and 105 and the 105 and the Wax to remove the heavy residue left over? IPA rubdown? Other? Wishing I took some pix as it went for reference but new camera doesn't arrive until next week

You went backwards for starters (205/105) On top of that, without removing either product you have no idea which really worked (I'm suspecting 105)

Between each polishing step (after I wipe off the polish) I wash the car using straight APC to remove any remaining residue (and to get the dust out of the cracks)

Welcome from Memphis

[Flash Gordon]

When I say I wash with straight APC, that doesn't mean straight out of its contanier, I mix with water

Just wanted to clarify that

[ShaunD]

I think we need some clarification of your procedures. What steps have taken on the BMW that you are or are not duplicating on your daughter's Mustang? Do you know the intended purpose for the polish/compound[205/105] you are using? What did you start off washing the Mustang with, and did you clay it after washing?

[Bluejay3]

Originally Posted by ShaunD

I think we need some clarification of your procedures. What steps have taken on the BMW that you are or are not duplicating on your daughter's Mustang? Do you know the intended purpose for the polish/compound[205/105] you are using? What did you start off washing the Mustang with, and did you clay it after washing?

Yes, I see that the five hours spent in the hot garage addled my brain somewhat and weft y'all with some questions.

Since 2012 BMW was perfect upon receiving last Decenmber, all I've had to do is Optimum No Rinse Wash and use Optimum Instant Detail Spray for the most every few days. More for the practice than the need, I did clay it once, and use Optimim Poli-Seal to clean it up a but, IPA'd and use Opti-Coat. A couple of Optimum Spray Car wax apps and it always is in near perfect condition condition for me.

So this made me unestimate the work needs on the daughter's old and neglected 2000 Mustang. It was in the oppossite starting condition. A few dents, some rust showing through, cracked paint, RIDS galore. It was neglected when she bought it five years ago and hasn't been touched since is my guess and with some dents, RIDS and rust it was in rough shape.

Yes, I did wash it and clay it the best I could. First thing I noticed is I needed some wheel cleaner and maybe IronX which I haven't needed for the BMW.

And Flash Gordonn was correct that reversed my MEguiars' products. I actually did first apply the 105 Ultra-cut flowing the clay THEN the 205 to try to finish it. At least I hope so I'm pretty sure I DID right but DESCRIBED it wrong. My apologies for reversing them in my text. My arms were too tired from three passes around with the Porters (but thank god it wasn't being done by hand!).

I don't know if it was the procedure and slowness that allowed the 105 to dry so hard that MF's couldn't budge or if I should have known a better way such as IPA, of using the PORters with a bonnet or other trick to try and remove more residue before trying to finish too early, I hate to finish too early (that's what she said!).

Having the Ulimate Paste Wax seemed to have saved the day and was able to clean through all the residue and leave it in an acceptable condition after all.

I knew detailing her car would not be as easy as mine but I should have done a bit more research beforehand for procedures and a couple more products like the aforementionedfor wheels as well as a ragtop cleaner/dresser. So I'm trying to learn a couple more tricks before I do such volunteer work again as my son's Suburu might be next. Wanting to expand my "subjects" beyond my easy BMW before i go "pro" after retirement from my day job.

I did a quick scan of The Art of Detailing and only mid-step step that jumped at me was perhaps the wipedown with IPA but not sure if that would have worked through the dried 105 residue or not. Hence the questions to the more experienced.

[BobbyG]

Originally Posted by Bluejay3

My question is what was the right thing to do between the 205 and 105 and the 105 and the Wax to remove the heavy residue left over? IPA rubdown? Other? Wishing I took some pix as it went for reference but new camera doesn't arrive until next week

Things to remember when detailing.

1. Detailing is hard work
2. It takes time and patience
3. It's takes a lot of practice to become proficient

Initially work on a small section in order to determine what's the best combination of pad and product. By working lets say a 2' X 2' section you'll be able to gauge your progress.


I like to use mineral spirits to remove polishing residue. It's stays wet much longer and does a much better job at cleaning the surface.


Meguiar's M105 - Compound


This is designed to remove the heaviest of of removable surface defects and oxidation. On a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher I'd recommend using it with a Yellow and Orange 5 1/2" diameter pads on speed 5 to 6.


Meguiar's M205 - Polish


This is designed to remove fine scratches and buffing haze left from using Meguiar's M105. On a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher I'd recommend using it with a White and Gray 5 1/2" diameter pads on speed 5. Meguiar's M205 is a very nice finishing polishing that will leave the surface looking super glossy.


Clean the surface with mineral spirits and a microfiber cloth. Once thoroughly dry apply your favorite sealant and wax for the glossiest shine and superb protection...

[primo spaghetti]

[QUOTE=Bluejay3;718370My arms were too tired from three passes around with the Porters (but thank god it wasn't being done by hand!).[/QUOTE]

perhaps it is your method.

ive never been able to get any correction with only three section passes. try searching for Mike Phillips video on using a DA (which he does use the PC) for swirl removal. it should be the same technique for what you are trying to achieve.

also what pad were you using? maybe have to bump it up to a more aggressive pad?

also make sure you follow BobbyG's advice above. small sections at a time. also dont get confused by the fact that 205 will remove the "haze" from 105. the haze tey are referring to is the "haze" left on the paint, not the "haze" of dried 105. did you remove the 105 before using 205?

[Bluejay3]

Originally Posted by BobbyG

Things to remember when detailing.

1. Detailing is hard work
2. It takes time and patience
3. It's takes a lot of practice to become proficient

Initially work on a small section in order to determine what's the best combination of pad and product. By working lets say a 2' X 2' section you'll be able to gauge your progress.


I like to use mineral spirits to remove polishing residue. It's stays wet much longer and does a much better job at cleaning the surface.


Meguiar's M105 - Compound


This is designed to remove the heaviest of of removable surface defects and oxidation. On a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher I'd recommend using it with a Yellow and Orange 5 1/2" diameter pads on speed 5 to 6.


Meguiar's M205 - Polish


This is designed to remove fine scratches and buffing haze left from using Meguiar's M105. On a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher I'd recommend using it with a White and Gray 5 1/2" diameter pads on speed 5. Meguiar's M205 is a very nice finishing polishing that will leave the surface looking super glossy.


Clean the surface with mineral spirits and a microfiber cloth. Once thoroughly dry apply your favorite sealant and wax for the glossiest shine and superb protection...

Great advice. I'm still working on that patience thing but it's coming with old age (and a stool).

A couple things I know it did wrong: 1) I was gong to switch to 5.5 inch pads for this job but misplaced my backplate wrench and 2) I was on the slowest speed so the Porters wasn't helping all that much to begin with.

By three passes, I didn't mean section passes on a section or panel, I meant the 105, 205, and Wax vehicle passes on the whole car made my fingers and brain too tired to post correctly.

As for pad colors, I believe I use Lake County pads, yellow for 105 cutting, Red for 205 finishing and a gold for the wax.

Do you dilute the mineral spirits or use it straight up? Better than IPA, huh?

[primo spaghetti]

your speed was way too slow to do any kind of correction. should be around 5 for sure. honestly lok up mike phillips DA video. very user friendly techniques with outstanding results.

[Bluejay3]

Originally Posted by primo spaghetti

your speed was way too slow to do any kind of correction. should be around 5 for sure. honestly lok up mike phillips DA video. very user friendly techniques with outstanding results.

I've read the book and see the recommended speed of 5 or 6 but will also check the video for more tips.

Would moving to 5.5 inch pads keep the speeds the same or need less speed to move the smaller pads?