New Custom paint. Best way to keep it great

[mred]

After 3 months in the paint and restoration shop and a huge $$$ bill to bring my 30 yr old original classic back to original I want to make sure that I am using the best products correctly to keep it show quality.
What do you suggest?

[swanicyouth]

Does it need any correction? If not, maybe a glaze for the first 30 days and then a permanent coating like Opti Coat. If you don't want to go the permanent coating route, maybe use a WOWO sealant like Opti Seal, topped with Optimum Car Wax. I would use these products due to ease of use, durability, UV protection.

[Blackthorn One]

I guess you had it painted in AZ or someplace that allows single stage paint if it is back to original, since base coat/ clear coat wasn't used in 1982 as far as I know. Since you want it show quality and to look original, I would use a wax to protect it, and not a polymer coating like Opti Coat, because that would change the look of the car very slightly, since it is an additional coat of clear, applied with an applicator.

Furthermore, a wax would be more period correct. For the money, Collinite 915 and 476 waxes can't be beat for protection, and for the money IMO, Poorboy's wax cant be beat for looks. If you want to spend more money, there are a lot of other waxes that, because they are different, appeal to different people.

Formula 303 Aerospace protectant offers 100% UV protection for your rubber, plastic and vinyl.

I would wait a month or two before I waxed it, to let the paint fully cure. I would just keep it clean, in the safest way, so I would use a foam gun and the two bucket method to wash with. The most basic thing in keeping a car show quality is to clean it safely, in a way that does not cause swirls. Get a nice wash mitt and microfiber drying towels.
I like Griot's Garage Car Wash soap for the bucket, and DP Extreme Foam for the foam gun.

If you are driving the car, and you want your wheels to stay tip top, you need to wash them at least once a week. Most of the time, car wash soap will suffice for that, but if you let them go for a couple weeks, then Griot's garage Wheel Cleaner is what I use. If you let them go much longer, I use Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner.
Get a spray bottle of waterless wash and a couple soft microfiber towels which you keep in a plastic bag or container to keep clean for the occasional bird bomb. Spray liberally, allow to soak for a minute, and then wipe gently. You carry it with you because bird bombs should be removed as quickly as possible since they have acids in them that can stain paint quickly, in minutes, not hours sometimes.

Poorboy's Spray and Wipe is good for this because it can be used in the sun with great success, better than most other products, and so if you are out somewhere parked in the sun, I would rely on that.

[mred]

Originally Posted by swanicyouth

Does it need any correction? If not, maybe a glaze for the first 30 days and then a permanent coating like Opti Coat. If you don't want to go the permanent coating route, maybe use a WOWO sealant like Opti Seal, topped with Optimum Car Wax. I would use these products due to ease of use, durability, UV protection.

Many thanks that is very helpful ..Ed

[mred]

Originally Posted by Blackthorn One

I guess you had it painted in AZ or someplace that allows single stage paint if it is back to original, since base coat/ clear coat wasn't used in 1982 as far as I know. Since you want it show quality and to look original, I would use a wax to protect it, and not a polymer coating like Opti Coat, because that would change the look of the car very slightly, since it is an additional coat of clear, applied with an applicator.

Furthermore, a wax would be more period correct. For the money, Collinite 915 and 476 waxes can't be beat for protection, and for the money IMO, Poorboy's wax cant be beat for looks. If you want to spend more money, there are a lot of other waxes that, because they are different, appeal to different people.

Formula 303 Aerospace protectant offers 100% UV protection for your rubber, plastic and vinyl.

I would wait a month or two before I waxed it, to let the paint fully cure. I would just keep it clean, in the safest way, so I would use a foam gun and the two bucket method to wash with. The most basic thing in keeping a car show quality is to clean it safely, in a way that does not cause swirls. Get a nice wash mitt and microfiber drying towels.
I like Griot's Garage Car Wash soap for the bucket, and DP Extreme Foam for the foam gun.

If you are driving the car, and you want your wheels to stay tip top, you need to wash them at least once a week. Most of the time, car wash soap will suffice for that, but if you let them go for a couple weeks, then Griot's garage Wheel Cleaner is what I use. If you let them go much longer, I use Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner.
Get a spray bottle of waterless wash and a couple soft microfiber towels which you keep in a plastic bag or container to keep clean for the occasional bird bomb. Spray liberally, allow to soak for a minute, and then wipe gently. You carry it with you because bird bombs should be removed as quickly as possible since they have acids in them that can stain paint quickly, in minutes, not hours sometimes.

Poorboy's Spray and Wipe is good for this because it can be used in the sun with great success, better than most other products, and so if you are out somewhere parked in the sun, I would rely on that.

Very helpful, Thank you.. I have never used a polisher for any of my cars, always by hand. I know what WAS good but now its a whole new ball game with waxes etc.