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  1. #1
    Newbie Member Teamzambo's Avatar
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    How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    Hello everyone! I have an issue that I need to get to before my weather gets 100+ in the next month or so.

    I have a Crystal Red Cadillac and a Red Expedition that I need to detail, only issue is now that I live in an area where the sun lets you cook an egg on any surface it shines on I dont know if the normal products I use will work.

    I have always worked for the a State Government so time has never been good for me. So I have had to machine wash my cars, yeah I know and Im always out and about so the car really never gets out of the sun until the sun goes down.

    What products do they make that will save my car from all the sun damage I see around here? I have seen new and old cars driving around looking like the clear was cooked off. I heard carnuba starts to melt at 180 and I know for a fact the car can go far above that (blisters from putting my hand on a coworkers car!)

    Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    I'm sure others will chime in with specific product recommendations, here's what I posted to your Intro Thread and while it's common sense, it should be the foundation for what you build on with the choice and application of any paint care products.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips

    When you live in a geographical location where your car is going to be exposed to direct sunlight and warm temperatures, the best thing you can do is keep the car parked out of the sun when not in use.

    Besides that, regular maintenance.

    Take care of your car's clear coat with regular washing or wiping clean and then find a wax or paint sealant that you like and use it often.

    Your car's clearcoat came with UV Light inhibitors, you can apply car waxes and paint sealants that offer UV protection but the first, best thing you can do is to take care of the clear coat that came from the factory as it contains the UV protection that protects the color coat.

    Applying a wax or paint sealant will help but this layer you leave on after wipe-off is measured in microns or sub-microns, so there's only so much protection it can offer. That's why I write, the first, best thing you can do is take care of the clear layer, or top coat of paint, it's thicker than a coat of wax and the chemist that make the paint include UV blockers or UV inhibitors and the idea is that if the clear coat is properly maintained, it will protect the paint over the normal service life of the car.

    Regular Maintenance

    • Wash or wipe clean, avoid detergent soaps
    • Regularly apply a fresh coat of a quality wax or paint sealant
    • Use spray detailers and spray waxes in-between a normal wash and a normal coat of wax


    Here's a few articles on these topics...


    How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project

    Frequent car care equals fast and easy car care...

    Sacrificial Barrier Coating = The purpose of a wax or synthetic paint sealant


  3. #3
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    Also... I lived 5+ years in Apple Valley, California, part of what's called the Mojave Desert, it gets pretty hot out there and I owned 2 red vehicles and pretty much just washed, polished and waxed often and the paint was always as good as could be expected.

    Johnson Valley Dry Lake Beds in the Mojave Desert - 4x4 Jimmy



    Apple Valley, California - 2-Wheel Drive Blazer




  4. #4
    Super Member akimel's Avatar
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    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    I would seriously consider purchasing a tin of Finish Kare 1000p. According to the manufacturer, it is heat-resistant, with a melting temperature exceeding 250F. It has a signature look (some say it looks as if an additional layer of clearcoat has been applied) and is a great value.

  5. #5
    Newbie Member Teamzambo's Avatar
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    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    Thanks for the info!

    Mike is that a 79 K5? Sweet lookin truck! Too bad I had to get rid of mine.

  6. #6
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    Quote Originally Posted by Teamzambo View Post
    Thanks for the info!

    Mike is that a 79 K5? Sweet lookin truck! Too bad I had to get rid of mine.
    No. I only buy full convertibles and that means 1969 to 1975, 1975 was the last year for the factory full convertible.



  7. #7
    Newbie Member Teamzambo's Avatar
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    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    So this is what im thinking:

    Mothers clay (just because I already have it)

    Zymol cleaner wax (is this strong enough to remove light swirls?)

    Finish Kare 303 Foam Pad Glaze

    Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax. 2-3 coats maybe?

    In this order. Then for regular maint Finish Kare 1016 Wash & Wax Concentrate (for my monthly hand wash after 2-3 machine washes in a month) then finish it off with some 425 after every wash/machin and hand.

    What do you guys think?

  8. #8
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    Quote Originally Posted by Teamzambo View Post
    So this is what im thinking:

    Zymol cleaner wax (is this strong enough to remove light swirls?)
    Not really.

    How difficult or how easy it is to remove swirls depends on a coupled of different factors, things like,

    • Paint hardness or softness
    • Depth of the defect you're trying to remove
    • Type of machine if you're working by machine
    • Skill and technique, especially if you're working by hand
    • Type of application material, be it a machine buffing pad some whatever it is you're using by hand


    Do you own any type of buffer?



  9. #9
    Newbie Member Teamzambo's Avatar
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    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    I think there is an old orbital buffer some where in the garage but nothing strong like a Flex or PC. I can buy one if I need to though.

    The paint is in good/great shape. Smooth with some minor swirls

  10. #10
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: How can I keep my red cars safe In 100+F Weather!?

    Quote Originally Posted by Teamzambo View Post
    I think there is an old orbital buffer some where in the garage but nothing strong like a Flex or PC. I can buy one if I need to though.

    The paint is in good/great shape. Smooth with some minor swirls
    I have a list of articles, you can click to it as the link is in my Signature Line, here's one...


    The Traditional Orbital Buffer aka The Wax Spreader





    Traditional Orbital Buffers like the one in the picture above have been around for a long time, at least the 1950's and probably the 1940's, possibly earlier. In all the years I've been teaching classes on machine polishing I ALWAYS include these types of buffers only I don't teach anyone how to use one, but instead teach people why they can't use one to remove swirls out of clear coat finishes.

    The reason for this is because chances are very good anytime you get together a group of approximately 30 car guys, (and car gals), chances are good at least one person in that group has a buffer like the one in the picture and chances are actually great that a number of people in the group have a buffer like this and/or have access to one or has been contemplating purchasing one.

    These types of buffers are relatively inexpensive and easy to find at most department stores like Sears, Target, Walmart or K-Mart, and also most auto parts stores from around a low of $15.00 to a high of $70.00 and with most of them falling in somewhere in-between in the $30.00 dollar range.

    Thus one reason so many people have one is because compared to the tools we all on detailing discussion forums talk about and use, these types of buffers are relatively cheap and easy to find. Tools like the Porter Cable 7424XP or a Flex 3401 more specialized tools capable of more dramatic results and are not easily found at the stores listed above.

    Also, because the Traditional Orbital Buffer is easily found and relatively inexpensive to purchase, they are often given as gifts by well meaning people to their friends and family members that are into cars.


    And here's what this article is all about... for as long as I've been teaching classes the below question about these types of buffers always comes up,


    "Mike, I already have an orbital buffer, can I use it to remove swirls?"


    And specifically what they mean is that they've seen all the pictures and read all the threads showing people removing swirls and creating show car finishes using tools like the Porter Cable dual action polisher, (and the Meguiar's and Griot's versions), or the Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher or any of the popular rotary buffers like the DeWalt, Makita, Flex 603 or now days the Flex Lightweight 3403 and what they mean is can they get the same kinds of spectacular results they see people getting with these machines with the traditional orbital buffer they already own.

    And then I get the fun of saying,

    "No. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the buffer you have won't work to effectively remove swirls"


    That's a typical scenario and conversation that takes place in one of my classes and I'm sure I can get a witness from one of our forum members that has attended one of these classes after this thread is read enough times after I hit the Submit Button.


    TOB = Wax Spreader
    Reality is, these tools are now called Wax Spreaders because for the most part that's all they're really capable of, that is spreading out a layer of wax to a finish already in good condition. They don't have enough power, speed or versatility to be used to remove swirls out of modern clear coat finishes. Now if your car's finish is already in great condition and all you want to do is spread out a coating of wax then by all means use them as they will work for this purpose.

    But if your car has a clear coat finish and has any of the below Below Surface Paint Defects then what you really need is a tool with dramatically better paint correction ability, that is the ability to remove these kinds of defects.

    Cobweb Swirls also called Spiderweb Swirls


    Rotary Buffer Swirls also called Holograms or Buffer Trails


    Water Spots



    A little history on the Traditional Orbital Buffer
    Back in the days when cars had single stage paints like lacquers and enamels, this would be pretty much most of the cars and truck built before the 1980's, you could use a traditional orbital buffer to remove oxidation because these paints were generally speaking fairly soft. The problem with single stage paints is that if you don't regularly polish and wax them, then the paint will begin to oxidize on the surface, this shows up as the paint turning a chalky, white color. For example, in the below picture the yellow paint on the 1960 Ford Ranchero has oxidized and begun to turn chalky white.

    Oxidation on single stage yellow paint



    With old style single stage paints you could remove the oxidation by putting some rubbing compound on the face of a traditional orbital buffer and then place the buffer onto the oxidized paint and use this style of buffer to basically chew off the dead, oxidized paint and it worked pretty good! What you would do is use the buffer and the compound to chew off the dead, oxidized paint and uncover a fresh layer of paint and then afterwards you would polish and wax this fresh layer of paint and the results would be a restored finish that could look like this,


    Oxidation removed off one half of the hood



    After all the oxidation has been removed off the entire vehicle and the paint has
    been polished to a high glossed and then protected using a paint sealant.





    The paints have changed...
    So old school buffers like a traditional orbital buffer worked find on old school paints. Here's the deal though... the paints have changed! Since the early 1980's car manufactures begin switching over to a new type of paint system called Clear Coat Finishes. There were some problems with early clear coat paint systems all th way into the 1990's but today paint manufactures have this new paint technology dialed-in and modern clear coat paints now last a long time and bring the finish quality of cars to a higher level than ever achieved in the past.

    Clearcoat paint systems use different types of resins or than traditional single stage paints and these new resins are more resistant to breaking down via oxidation and that's a good thing because modern paints will easily last longer than traditional single stage paints with only a minimum of care such as washing and occasionally waxing or sealing the paint.


    Swirls and Scratches instead of Oxidation
    While modern clear coat paints don't oxidize very easily they are easily swirled and scratched and the swirls and scratches show up easily to our eyes. The reason for this is because when you scratch a clear layer of paint the scratch isn't clear it's opaque or whitish and because the clear layer is sprayed over a layer of colored or pigmented paint, the darker colored paints act to make the swirls and scratches in the clear layer show up easily to our eyes.

    Harder paints
    One of the reasons modern clear coat paints are less prone to oxidize and can last longer then their predecessor is because they tend to be harder and more dense in their chemical make-up than single stage lacquer and enamel paints. This benefit comes at a cost and the cost is when you and I go out into our garage to try to remove swirls and scratches by hand it's dramatically more difficult to remove swirls and scratches because of the hardness factor.

    • Single stage paints get oxidation but because they're softer it's easy to remove the oxidation which is basically dead or deteriorated paint.

    • Clear coat paints get swirls and scratches but because they tend to be harder than single stage paints it's more difficult to remove defects in the paint.
    It's important to note here that the way you remove swirls and scratches out of a clear coat finish is you must abrade the paint in way that will level the upper most surface of the finish with the lowest depths of the swirls and scratches you're trying to remove. In simple words, in order to remove swirls and scratches you must remove a little paint. That never sounds good to say while teaching a class or type when explaining this in a discussion forum but that is the truth.

    Horizontal Point of View of Swirls, Scratches & Water Spots



    See this article for more information,
    What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats


    Just to point out, removing oxidation means removing a little paint off the surface too so we're all still doing the same thing when it comes to working on modern clear coat paints it's just the difficulty has increased because the chemical make-up of the paint has changed.



    The reasons why Traditional Orbital Buffers are not effective at removing swirls, scratches and water spots out of clear coat finishes.

    Too little power
    Most of the traditional Orbital buffers available today don't have the same usable power that polishers like Porter Cable DA Polishers, Flex 3401 Polishers and Rotary Buffers offer.


    Fixed speed buffers
    Most of these tools have a simple On/Off button so you only get one speed out of the tool and usually it's not fast enough to be effective at removing swirls.

    Too slow
    The fixed speed offered by traditional orbital buffers is too slow for effective removal of below surface. To be effective you want a polisher that offers a variable speed range with faster speeds at the high speed setting.


    Tool large of a bonnet or face of buffing pad
    The diameter of most of the buffing pads on traditional orbital buffers is too large and this makes the overall size or footprint of the polisher too large. What this means is when you apply some downward pressure to try to work a compound or polish against the paint to try to remove swirls, scratches and water spots, your downward pressure is spread-out over the entire surface of the buffing pad. This is limits and reduces the effectiveness and ability of the these types of buffers to remove paint and thus remove swirls, scratches and water spots.


    Summary
    All the reasons listed above are why traditional orbital buffers are simply not effective at removing swirls, scratches and/or water spots and have now days been relegated to the role of wax spreaders.

    The good news is, there are plenty of powerful but safe options available to you with a huge assortment of buffing pads and backing plates as well as accessories to enable you to do the job yourself and remove below surface defects out of your car's clear coat finish like swirls, scratches and water spots.



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